StratfordShark

My LCAs are disconnected from chassis (MM job) and from lower shock mount (changing shocks).

I'd like to remove the LCA completely both sides for thorough clean. They are only attached to hub by lower ball joint.

With the LCA attached only by ball joint (I'm using axle stand at one end to relieve pressure on joint) will that create problem?

Thanks a lot!

Adrian

GlenL

No problems.

Remove the stud from the knuckle with a ball joint press. Unbolting the ball joint from the arm means an alignment, or two, before it's set right again.

StratfordShark

Thanks Glen.

I got the nut off easily with electric impact wrench. Used this separator to pop the joint out. The taper is incredibly shiny after 23 years in there - better quality than they use for surgery!

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...-joint-remover

dr bob

Put some tension on the bolt with the balljoint tool. Then use two hammers, one on either side of the knuckle to break the bond. Where the tapered stud passes through, put a big hammer on one side as backing, then hit the other side with the other hammer. The shock of the impact and a small amount of distortion of the metal will cause the stud to release.

If your lower balljoints are more than 75k old, save yourself the cleaning effort by installing new balljoints; they are likely due for replacemnt at this point.

StratfordShark

Thanks Dr Bob. I wanted to try the 2 hammer method but it was tricky finding space around the joint, and the tool popped it out easily.

I'd like to fit new lower ball joints so your advice is excuse I need! How should I mark the original so that alignment is vaguely close before shop alignment?

I am also going to renew rack bushes. Can I stop there or is it advisable to fit new tie rod ends and upper ball joints? I am getting into mission creep here! I don't really want to struggle with tie rods at the rack if I can avoid for now, but would consider if old tie rods negates all the other work.

Adrian

dr bob

If you are driving on original tie rods and ends, now is a perfect time to replace. The improvement in steering accuracy is impressive, plus it will help your alignment efforts persist all the way to the roadway.

On the 'best adjustment' for the lower joints, you can safely adjust the new ones to get minimum caster on both sides. I have clamp-on fixtures for wheel alignment, with a digital angle gauge for setting camber. If you have a couple blocks of wood (same thickness) and a carpenter's level, you can make a little test fixture so the level can contact the wheel lip top and bottom. Adjust camber until a 5mm drill or so as a spacer at the top causes the level to be vertical. It doesn't need to be perfect, but the two sides need to be the same. With that, and the new tie rods set to exactly the same length as the old ones, you'll be safe to drive the miles needed to settle the suspension for final alignment.

StratfordShark

Thanks Dr Bob. Is trying to copy the existing eccentric positions valid, or does new ball joint render original positions irrelevant?

dr bob

I'ts not a bad place to start, but there's still a fair amount of room around the eccentrics for movement. I'm spoiled with having the alignment gear available, so my judgement may be slanted. If you have a good alignment place available, ask them to rough in your settings before you drive far. Then settle the suspesnion by driving the car, and return for a final alignment after it's at final height. You still have ride height adjustment on your worklist before any serious alignment anyway.