worf928

I usually refrain from participating in Dog Piles. But, this time I have to agree with the above.

The first sin was beating up Rob, one of the most helpful-to-newbies folks here.
The second sin was quoting every bit of Rob's posts including the linked pictures. This just shows that you are unwilling to take the time to add value. You just wanna fly in, Sea Gull Style, poop on what other folks are doing, and fly away. A lot like some managers I've fired over the years.

Repent and change your sinning ways. You will have a happier life.

I am definitely wearing my cranky pants today.

UpFixenDerPorsche

bump

UpFixenDerPorsche

bump

SeanR

It's no wonder some people have been booted from other message boards/E-mail lists. Very telling actually.

worf928

OP? Is this the executive summary:

1) 928's oil pressure was normal
2) Lifters were not clacking at warm idle
3) Cam covers R&R'd (along with intake)
4) Now OP Gauge is stuck at 1.5 BAR with pressure warning activated.
5) Now lifters clack at warm idle

?

Alan

I think the key message here is - if you get the insufficient oil pressure warning as anything other than a blip at hot idle that goes away with a few more RPM's - turn off the engine and find out whats going on. (Even if just temporarily low at hot idle - follow up on oil type at least is needed ASAP).

At the very least verify you have enough oil and that you aren't overheated.... Let the engine cool down.

Then investigate other things. It's always wise to know exactly what oil is in your engine - if you didn't know for any reason - I'd suggest changing it so you do.

Alan

Pagnobito

So, I've stripped down the front of the engine and it all looks fine apart from being a bit oily. The cam gears are still in great condition with no loss of coating and the belt tension is good.







I have the oil filter off (check in it for metal) and have hand turned the engine several times clockwise of course and would have expected some oil to come out the oil filter hole but got nothing.

I have dipped the pan and the oil is clean apart from being brown of course.

In answer to some previous questions.
Yes this happened after intake and cam cover R&R but not straight away I did about 20 miles used the full range of revs and stopped for about 3 hours. Drove another 20 with some stop start and some spirited with no issues at all. I then stopped for about 20 minutes and on starting got the message. I didn't have far to go home, thought it was just hot and only when home and on the drive noticed the lifter noise and the oil pressure gauge wasn't moving. Left it to cool, started it briefly, same message, no pressure showing on the gauge, well the needle moved a bit but not much but also didn't move at all when I raised the revs. I only ran it briefly, surmised it was much more than a hot problem and didn't run it after that. At no time did the temp gauge read higher than normal.

Mrmerlin, I missed your earlier question, it's GP white actually with complete velvet red leather interior including dash and soft look seats. The wheels are genuine (and expensive) 18" 3 Piece Speedline for Porsche and I have customised the front to the correct offset so they are 8.75" wide, rears are 10"

Now if there is no oil coming out the hole where the filter was on turning the engine and the cog on the pump is turning with the belt I have to remove the pump to check and also remove the pan to check the pickup is correct and not broken in some way?
I have a new gasket so may as well but it's still a big job (done it twice on other cars) I can only think the problem is before the pump or the pump itself seeing as the sender didn't see any oil pressure and noisy lifters indicate no oil getting to them. If there was some sort of blockage after the pump or even stuck open pressure valve one would still expect higher oil pressure reading with higher engine speed especially cold unless it is blocked between the pump and sender.

I turned the engine several times to see if oil came out and also to turn it from TDC to -45 (1 and 3/4 turns) and went to install the flywheel lock and no way does it fit. It fitted my previous manual car, is the auto different? If I line it up with the teeth it doesn't line up with the blanking plate screw holes. The lock is horizontal in relation to the back part that fixes to the bottom of the bell housing but looking in the hole the teeth are at an angle, the curve of the wheel. If I line up the lock tool with the teeth it's about 20 degrees off from the holes to fix it.

Please out of respect don't argue in this thread, all suggestions or questions are helpful, derogatory comments are not helpful to anyone.

Thank you for taking the time to help me.

Chalkboss

I believe it is possible to have a partially blocked sender, with small bits getting into the sensor hole and affecting the reading. Mine read low (4 bar at 3K and 0.5 bar idle, both hot). Replaced the sender and it is fine- to spec. But then you also have the lifter clacking...

Fine looking 928 btw.

hacker-pschorr

What are the odds the key on the oil pump shaft failed. Has that ever happened before?
Trying to think of anything "easy" that doesn't require huge disassembly.
It would be easy enough to check, while someone is turning over the engine see if the shaft is spinning with the gear.

Otherwise, so far all signs point to a clogged screen or something up with the pickup assembly. I cannot imagine the amount of sludge it would take to clog that screen, but anything is possible.

Unless the oil bypass is stuck 100% open.

Pagnobito

I have looked at Dwayne's timing belt R&R and it does indeed look like he has a universal flywheel lock with two different fixing holes, whereas mine only has one set and appears to be for the manual car.

I'm going to drop the sump, I reckon it's more than coincidence it happened after the intake cam cover job and could be sealant used to hold the spark plug rings and cam cover gasket in place has migrated round the engine and blocked up the oil pickup. I didn't use much sealant but it's certainly possible?

txhokie4life

To test a 944 engine rebuild I have pulled off the oil filter
removed the fuel relay and pulled the ignition coil wires.
Then turned the engine over by starter, off/on until I could see oil come out of the filter hole.

This would help address the front end of the oil supply (pick up tube, pump)

Does the oprv work like the 944? If so one of those sticking can dump straight back to the
oil pan -- but I don't remember if it goes through filter first or not?

mike

Bilal928S4

There are 2 different types of flywheel locks. One for the 87+ car (may even be from 85+, not sure) and one for the previous years, I think. So make sure you have the correct year version. My 90 auto and 91 manual used the same fly wheel lock.

upstate bob

I would go after the sender first. Use a direct pressure gauge. You don't have to run it long.

txhokie4life

I would normally agree -- but the noisy lifters bother me.

you can run the car and pull one of the cam housing plugs off and see if you
get any splash oil. You can also check to see if you are getting pooling there,
but I would expect the symptom to be a drop in oil pressure as your oil pools in the cam tower, not at start up and stays steady (and low).

Mike

hacker-pschorr

I've seen this happen on cars without oil pan gaskets and too much sealant is used.

I supposed what you are suggesting is possible, but then I would really be worried where else the sealant has taken up residence other than the pickup tube on it's way to the sump.

What kind of sealant did you use?