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Sunroof doesn't open....

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Old 07-11-2014, 10:28 PM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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Remove the sunroof cover, put your palm on the sunroof motor and try the switch in either direction - do you feel or hear anything? If not, disconnect and connect the sunroof wire harness and test again - this will help improve the connection. If still not, separate the wiring at the plug and use a continuity tester at the harness to see if you are getting power when you press the switch. If yes, you may have a bad motor. You can run a couple of leads either from your battery or from a batter charger directly to the sunroof motor - polarity is not important at this point. If direct power does not help I would lean toward a failed motor. If yes, then there is a power issue. Have you checked the fuse?
Old 07-13-2014, 11:39 PM
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FREAKINHEAT
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What is the fuse number for the sunroof? Could there be a faulty relay? My car is a 91
Old 07-13-2014, 11:44 PM
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MainePorsche
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Originally Posted by FREAKINHEAT
What is the fuse number for the sunroof? Could there be a faulty relay? My car is a 91
How about post 15.
Best Wishes.
Old 05-03-2015, 08:39 PM
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Update. I used the window switch to attempt to open the sunroof. It did not work. I took the sunroof switch and hooked it up the passenger window. It did work. This leads me to believe it is not the switch that is the issue.

I purchased a used motor and plugged it in. Did not work, which leads me to believe there is possibly no power going to motor.

I had my girlfriend try and pin point where the noise comes from when pressing the switch. The noise is definitely coming from drivers side under the pod area.

What should I attempt next?
Old 05-04-2015, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by FREAKINHEAT
Update. I used the window switch to attempt to open the sunroof. It did not work. I took the sunroof switch and hooked it up the passenger window. It did work. This leads me to believe it is not the switch that is the issue.

I purchased a used motor and plugged it in. Did not work, which leads me to believe there is possibly no power going to motor.

I had my girlfriend try and pin point where the noise comes from when pressing the switch. The noise is definitely coming from drivers side under the pod area.

What should I attempt next?
First off, did you try any of the things already suggested? And could you tell us the results? If we knew what your finding were...it could help some.

So, did you check for power at your fuse, relay, switch, motor with a test light or DVM?

Not sure if the switches are even the same and would work if exchanged anyway, maybe others might know that answer. But, you need to find a power sourse or find out why you don't have a power sourse and give up on the guessing at solutions part.

Good luck,

Brian.
Old 05-04-2015, 05:20 PM
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I am no regular multimeter user, so checking for power wouldn't be my strong suit. Watched some youtube and went at it.

I did attempt to read power to the motor. It has power to it, 13 amps. But once I pressed the open button, numbers dropped dramatically. Not sure if this is normal or not. The fuse is in good shape, and there is power to the fuse as well.

Sorry for the vague explanation, as I explained before, electrical is no friend of mine.
Old 05-04-2015, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by FREAKINHEAT
I am no regular multimeter user, so checking for power wouldn't be my strong suit. Watched some youtube and went at it.

I did attempt to read power to the motor. It has power to it, 13 amps. But once I pressed the open button, numbers dropped dramatically. Not sure if this is normal or not. The fuse is in good shape, and there is power to the fuse as well.

Sorry for the vague explanation, as I explained before, electrical is no friend of mine.
A test light may be a better option for you then. You basically hook one end to a good ground (any metal portion of your car....as long as it is not bolted/screwed to plastic entirely) and probe different connections and terminals for current. 13 amps is not a reading you should find at the motor, you should be looking for voltage (like 12.5 volts). A test light will show you voltage...and that is all...but it will tell you where to start looking. I'd take a test light to that sun roof switch and see what you have there as far as voltage for starters and recheck motor, too. A test light is only a few bucks at any parts store and can be very helpful while checking out electrically problems.

Brian.
Old 05-04-2015, 05:38 PM
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I'm sorry I meant volts. I disconnected the line to the sunroof motor and grounded the negative and placed positive on male connector behind roof panel. This is where it read 13 volts, which then dropped once the switch was pressed.
Old 05-04-2015, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FREAKINHEAT
I'm sorry I meant volts. I disconnected the line to the sunroof motor and grounded the negative and placed positive on male connector behind roof panel. This is where it read 13 volts, which then dropped once the switch was pressed.
If there are two wires inside the sun roof plug...I believe they are both positive terminals. The motor is grounded through the mounting bracket. The motor runs in both directions. One terminal is 12 volts when called apon by the switch and opens the roof, the other terminal is 12 volts when called apon by the switch to close the roof. If you put power to one side and ground to the other of these two terminals...this is why your meter dropped to zero...it wasn't intended to be checked this way...also, you may have harmed the motor or relay...hopefully not.

If you look at this wiring diagram below it shows each wire going to the motor (circle with an M in it, lower righthand side of diagram) from a relay terminal #30...which would become powered when called apon by switch in either direction.



You should be able to touch one terminal (either side) with a power source and see if the motor runs.

Brian.
Old 12-15-2015, 03:44 PM
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Default Figured it out

The ultimate result was to replace the window control unit. Item number 928.618.240.00
This solved the non working sunroof. The clicking/noise was actually coming from this part. Just wanted to give an update as others may run into this issue. Thanks 928 international for your December sale.

I now have another paper weight.
Old 12-15-2015, 04:50 PM
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Good job.
After you said you had power there that would drop off with switch activation after replacing the switch, I thought it may have been the controller unit.
Old 12-16-2015, 05:31 PM
  #27  
Steve Drake
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Default One added step to link on switch repair

The link Maine Porsche gave is excellent and got my switch working again. However after the plastic was trimmed away the switch would not return to the off position on the side I trimmed. I tried a couple of adjustments but no luck. Finally put a small piece of silicone for under the brass arms near the contact point. It gives that little push back to return the brass platform to the off position. As much as I use the sunroof it will last forever. Steve
Old 09-05-2016, 08:29 PM
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Tony
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just to add to a thread with a good titlle...

my problem was two fold.

1) the connector to the motor in the sunroof from the harness was loose. This caused intermittent operation. I used a small screw driver and pushed the female connections closer together so it would be a tighter fit.

2)...and the main issue i had was a slow operating roof. Turns out the current draw had slowly and overtime melted the plastic around the switch contact point and also deposited a bunch of carbon on the contacting surfaces.(same thing happens the windows) A few minutes with and exacto, 800 sandpaper, and contact cleaner fixed it. My sunroof has never moved so fast! The connection is now clean and allows full current flow to the motor. I also added some graphite powder to the rails, rubbing it in by hand first.




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