Sunroof doesn't open....
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Sunroof doesn't open....
My 91 came without a working sunroof. When you hit the open button, the sunroof doesn't move, but there is a noise from the left side of the steering pod. Between the door and the pod? What is over there that is preventing my sunroof to not open?
#4
Nordschleife Master
Ducman82, where is the central window controller located on MY91 ?
Windows and sunroof are controlled through this - his sound is no where near the window motor as he describes it though.
Windows and sunroof are controlled through this - his sound is no where near the window motor as he describes it though.
#6
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
#7
Team Owner
add some deoxit spray to the sunroof switch and try it
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#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I recently had Deoxit fail to improve some window and sunroof switches so I used my time-honored method:
1 - Note the direction of the wires coming off the switch on the switch clips (for proper reassembly orientation)
2 - Pry the switch apart with a couple jeweler's screwdrivers, hold the plastic away from one of the plastic pins with one screwdriver and then pry out another.
2a - don't lose the little brass rectangles in the switch rocker, do this on a clean bench. They will fall right out. A dab of grease will hold them in.
3 - Clean all the contacts with 1000 paper, holding the contacts against the paper by pressing on the parts of the switch the rocker engages. Clean top and bottom contacts, clean all of them. I think there are 4 pairs in a window switch. With the paper folded and the switch contacts forced closed on it you can clean a pair at a time.
4 - (this is where it gets good) Pin the closed contacts open with toothpicks
5 - Brush strong acid on the contacts, I use battery acid left over from filling motorcycle batteries or from a scrap battery and a small paintbrush. This works where just sanding the contacts does not.
5a - Be careful, acid is strong stuff. Wear gloves and eye protection and use your brain. If this is not something you are comfortable with, you might be able to use tile grout cleaner or vinegar and a lot more time.
6 - Keep an eye on your part, the plastic might start to get soft. After a few minutes, rinse off the acid with water and blow dry and/or use 90% alcohol to remove the water.
7 - Spray with Deoxit or similar
8 - Reassemble in the original orientation.
9 - Test before closing up the console.
I'm not sure I'd try this in the car due to the acid spatter, and there is not a lot of slack wire on these switches. They are pretty easy to remove with the console carpet sides off. You can clean the rear wiper switch in the same way, as well as seat switches (which lose little ball bearings when popped apart.)
Cheers,
-Joel.
1 - Note the direction of the wires coming off the switch on the switch clips (for proper reassembly orientation)
2 - Pry the switch apart with a couple jeweler's screwdrivers, hold the plastic away from one of the plastic pins with one screwdriver and then pry out another.
2a - don't lose the little brass rectangles in the switch rocker, do this on a clean bench. They will fall right out. A dab of grease will hold them in.
3 - Clean all the contacts with 1000 paper, holding the contacts against the paper by pressing on the parts of the switch the rocker engages. Clean top and bottom contacts, clean all of them. I think there are 4 pairs in a window switch. With the paper folded and the switch contacts forced closed on it you can clean a pair at a time.
4 - (this is where it gets good) Pin the closed contacts open with toothpicks
5 - Brush strong acid on the contacts, I use battery acid left over from filling motorcycle batteries or from a scrap battery and a small paintbrush. This works where just sanding the contacts does not.
5a - Be careful, acid is strong stuff. Wear gloves and eye protection and use your brain. If this is not something you are comfortable with, you might be able to use tile grout cleaner or vinegar and a lot more time.
6 - Keep an eye on your part, the plastic might start to get soft. After a few minutes, rinse off the acid with water and blow dry and/or use 90% alcohol to remove the water.
7 - Spray with Deoxit or similar
8 - Reassemble in the original orientation.
9 - Test before closing up the console.
I'm not sure I'd try this in the car due to the acid spatter, and there is not a lot of slack wire on these switches. They are pretty easy to remove with the console carpet sides off. You can clean the rear wiper switch in the same way, as well as seat switches (which lose little ball bearings when popped apart.)
Cheers,
-Joel.
#9
Nordschleife Master
Joel, nice work.
I did the surgery described below in addition to cleaning/filing/Deoxit to the switches there. The most important (I think) aspect of the surgery is the whittling down of the plastic edge which impedes the contact from being made. All the Deoxit and cleaning will not help this.
The switches are the most common failure point in the system.
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/windowSW.htm
I did the surgery described below in addition to cleaning/filing/Deoxit to the switches there. The most important (I think) aspect of the surgery is the whittling down of the plastic edge which impedes the contact from being made. All the Deoxit and cleaning will not help this.
The switches are the most common failure point in the system.
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/windowSW.htm
#10
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Ooh, I like that. I could see also trimming the alloy tab a bit with a dremel to get more clearance with the switch body. You could also pry up the bottom contact a bit and then glue in a shim or something to hold it securely.
You can get switches for $25 or so but the word on the street is that these replacements are not very good so I prefer to rehab the OEM switchgear.
Thanks,
-Joel.
You can get switches for $25 or so but the word on the street is that these replacements are not very good so I prefer to rehab the OEM switchgear.
Thanks,
-Joel.
#11
Nordschleife Master
Ooh, I like that. I could see also trimming the alloy tab a bit with a dremel to get more clearance with the switch body. You could also pry up the bottom contact a bit and then glue in a shim or something to hold it securely.
You can get switches for $25 or so but the word on the street is that these replacements are not very good so I prefer to rehab the OEM switchgear.
Thanks,
-Joel.
You can get switches for $25 or so but the word on the street is that these replacements are not very good so I prefer to rehab the OEM switchgear.
Thanks,
-Joel.
Get out your Exacto, and do the surgery - the result will impress you.
Craig
#15
Nordschleife Master
If you have voltage there, but no motor function than the motor is the issue.
Track along these lines.