1989porsche928

i powder coated my valve covers and figured I could replace the sensor now to save time in the future.

1989porsche928

the new hall sensor is destroyed

MainePorsche

Hmmm...the Mystery !
Sorry to see - interesting and will follow.

MainePorsche

Ah !

Rob Edwards

This is the rotor trim you'll need- 928 105 460 01.

$2 (!) at 928Intl.

http://shop.site-link.com/928intl/pr...928-105-460-01

Unfortunately the Hall sensor will be more dear.

1989porsche928

Alright so I basically take the cover off. Find a way to hold the camshafts and flywheel in place and then remove the sprokett and damaged parts. I will try and see if I can install the new cam sensor with the cover off so I can verify it doesn't break again

Mrmerlin

put the engine at TDC ,
mark the cams use a few zipties to hold the belt to the DS cam pulley,
then ziptie the belt to the tensioner roller after you loosen the belt tension.
This should hold the belt in place,

then hold the cam from turning with the 30 mm washer nut under the 17mm bolt head,
NOTE use the washer to hold the cam while torquing

Leon Speed

Interesting close up of the carnage. The metal rotor probably clipped the outer plastic part of the sender, that wrecked the metal part of the sender and then kaboom from there. You can see the plastic and metal sender parts in the close up. Could happen if the metal rotor was bent just enough to catch the sender. Sorry for the misfortune. If I were you i would get a replacement rotor and use the old hall sender.

1989porsche928

Just to make sure I am understanding what your saying.

1) I rotate the crankshaft until it reaches a certain number which means top dead center

2)remove both camshaft sprocket covers

3) with zip ties, zip tie the driver's side sprocket to the belt (to hold the belt in place).

4) zip tie the belt to the tensioner after I loosen the belt tension

5) mark the passender side camshafts <----( don't understand how please explain)

6) hold the cam from turning with the 30 mm washer nut under the 17mm bolt head, NOTE use the washer to hold the cam while torquing

So the driver's side camshaft sprocket wont freely move when i loosen the belt?

Mrmerlin

Remove the rotors from both cams first,
then the cam pulley bolt on the right cam,
once this is done the pulley can be removed.

NOTE the cam will turn a few degrees once you remove the belt.
Once the pulley comes off then you can inspect the spider and replace the trigger ring.

NOTE use the 30mm washer nut to hold the cam from turning whist you re torque the cam pulley bolt and to assist in loosening the bolt.
NOTE dont turn the cam with the 17mm bolt head

1989porsche928

Getting closer to flying back to ny to repair the 928. Can I hold the camshafts under the passengers side valve cover in place using the cam shaft profile tool from 928intl. I have a strong feeling with my bad luck the zip ties would slip and cause more damage

Rob Edwards

The profile tool is meant to be used with the engine set at 45o BTDC- you'll be R&R'ing the cam gear with the engine on TDC, so you can get the cam gear lined up correctly. At 45o BTDC, it looks like the profile tool would hold the exhaust lobe from rotating clockwise, but A) you're not going to be working at 45o BTDC, and B) I wouldn't try to hold back the 48 ft lbs of torque you will be imparting to the camshaft bolt with the profile tool- you'll just scratch or ding the surface of the cam lobe, which will kill the lifter and/or the cam lobe.

Follow Stan's directions and you won't have bad luck- while tightening the cam bolt you'll counterhold with a 12 point 30mm combination wrench.

1989porsche928

I took the Fan out today (plan on removing the tubes/covers/ possible draining the fluid tomorrow). I just wanted to see if you guys knew why this pipe / hose was blocking the passengers side fan, I mean like right against it preventing it from moving/spining. I noticed this a while ago but I just took a picture of the pipe I am talking about with the fan removed. This pipe made removing the fan very hard I actually broke a piece of plastic off trying to take the fan out.

ammonman

That is the suction line for your A/C compressor. The union joint adjacent to the charge port (top of red frame) might have been loosened in the past during some A/C work and not properly positioned when it was tightened. How are the motor mounts on the car? If they are shot the settled position of the motor might be pushing this line tight against your fan shroud.

Mike

Mrmerlin

FWIW that fat line can be easily pushed back ever so slightly to clear the fan by a few MMs ,
use two hands and gently push the line,
it will bend at the curved section adjacent to the fender well,

otherwise ,
use Mikes directions and loosen the B nut and the line can be repositioned.
I have found that bending the line works the best.