928 Oil pan hardware experiment
06-30-2014, 11:01 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
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928 Oil pan hardware experiment
Ok so I've seen a lot about oil pan leaking due to hardware and gasket issues. So I am embarking on an experiment using some hardware designed for the petro-chem and medical industry that could prove interesting - I hope. I have attached a couple of pictures.
These are o-ring sealing and nylon locking thread enhanced hardware. In addition to the bolts themselves being self-locking and self-sealing I am going to use Viton enhanced sealing washers with built-in shoulder and locking.
I will post the results once the assembly is finalized and we have Inga up and running.
Fronkensteen
These are o-ring sealing and nylon locking thread enhanced hardware. In addition to the bolts themselves being self-locking and self-sealing I am going to use Viton enhanced sealing washers with built-in shoulder and locking.
I will post the results once the assembly is finalized and we have Inga up and running.
Fronkensteen
06-30-2014, 11:35 AM
#2
Electron Wrangler
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This would only address leakage at the bolts not around the gasket perimeter.
Using a head seal and locking bar may make it hard to determine tightness/torque which with some gaskets can be problematic... you may be trying to solve the wrong problem... If the gasket is working correctly the bolts shouldn't leak.
Interesting looking bolts though!
Alan
Using a head seal and locking bar may make it hard to determine tightness/torque which with some gaskets can be problematic... you may be trying to solve the wrong problem... If the gasket is working correctly the bolts shouldn't leak.
Interesting looking bolts though!
Alan
06-30-2014, 11:56 AM
#3
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When I did mine (for spun t/b over 10 year ago) to keep pan gasket bolts from backing off and causing leaks I sprayed the tapped holes with carburator cleaner and made sure they were absolutly clean. Gasket was installed dry, and blue loctite used. Bolts torqued to 7/10 ft/pnd. No leak so far.
06-30-2014, 02:27 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
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Agreed on both points: Proper gasket and cleanliness is key. These bolts and washers provide both leak seal and torque seal. My goal is the latter. There is nothing to be done with bolts if the gasket isn't set properly.
It would be better, nicer and cheaper in the long run if someone would fab some French locking tabs for these as I've seen some folks hand fabricate them. I'm too lazy for that and if these do the trick all around there are less moving parts to fiddle with. I am hoping not to need the washers at all but grabbing them anyway.
Fronkensteen
It would be better, nicer and cheaper in the long run if someone would fab some French locking tabs for these as I've seen some folks hand fabricate them. I'm too lazy for that and if these do the trick all around there are less moving parts to fiddle with. I am hoping not to need the washers at all but grabbing them anyway.
Fronkensteen
06-30-2014, 02:36 PM
#5
Drifting
06-30-2014, 03:41 PM
#7
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Ok so I've seen a lot about oil pan leaking due to hardware and gasket issues. So I am embarking on an experiment using some hardware designed for the petro-chem and medical industry that could prove interesting - I hope. I have attached a couple of pictures.
These are o-ring sealing and nylon locking thread enhanced hardware. In addition to the bolts themselves being self-locking and self-sealing I am going to use Viton enhanced sealing washers with built-in shoulder and locking.
I will post the results once the assembly is finalized and we have Inga up and running.
Fronkensteen
These are o-ring sealing and nylon locking thread enhanced hardware. In addition to the bolts themselves being self-locking and self-sealing I am going to use Viton enhanced sealing washers with built-in shoulder and locking.
I will post the results once the assembly is finalized and we have Inga up and running.
Fronkensteen
And the silicone gasket, with hardware that will not loosen at the very small torque that the soft silicone allows, works fine....if you can get over that red ring of silicone pushed out from your oil pan....like someone attacked it with a caulking gun full of red silicone. I personally can't even stand that look around the water pump....and one can barely see the water pump....my brain convulses when it sees that around the oil pan. Too many years of trying to make things work while looking stock!
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06-30-2014, 03:48 PM
#8
Captain Obvious
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What the silicone pan gasket needs is torque rings. All the rubber valve cover gaskets now days have them. How come the manufacturer of the sicone gasket haven't yet added this to the gasket is weird.
06-30-2014, 07:50 PM
#11
I've been using the stud kits for years and no complaints.
06-30-2014, 08:36 PM
#12
Three Wheelin'
The problem with the stock set-up isn't the hardware, it's the shrinkage/compression of the cork gasket.
And the silicone gasket, with hardware that will not loosen at the very small torque that the soft silicone allows, works fine....if you can get over that red ring of silicone pushed out from your oil pan....like someone attacked it with a caulking gun full of red silicone. I personally can't even stand that look around the water pump....and one can barely see the water pump....my brain convulses when it sees that around the oil pan. Too many years of trying to make things work while looking stock!
And the silicone gasket, with hardware that will not loosen at the very small torque that the soft silicone allows, works fine....if you can get over that red ring of silicone pushed out from your oil pan....like someone attacked it with a caulking gun full of red silicone. I personally can't even stand that look around the water pump....and one can barely see the water pump....my brain convulses when it sees that around the oil pan. Too many years of trying to make things work while looking stock!
06-30-2014, 08:43 PM
#13
Nordschleife Master
The problem with the stock set-up isn't the hardware, it's the shrinkage/compression of the cork gasket.
And the silicone gasket, with hardware that will not loosen at the very small torque that the soft silicone allows, works fine....if you can get over that red ring of silicone pushed out from your oil pan....like someone attacked it with a caulking gun full of red silicone. I personally can't even stand that look around the water pump....and one can barely see the water pump....my brain convulses when it sees that around the oil pan. Too many years of trying to make things work while looking stock!
And the silicone gasket, with hardware that will not loosen at the very small torque that the soft silicone allows, works fine....if you can get over that red ring of silicone pushed out from your oil pan....like someone attacked it with a caulking gun full of red silicone. I personally can't even stand that look around the water pump....and one can barely see the water pump....my brain convulses when it sees that around the oil pan. Too many years of trying to make things work while looking stock!
06-30-2014, 09:33 PM
#14
The stud kit works great, and with the proper torque the silicone gasket does fine and does not stick out.
07-01-2014, 01:06 AM
#15
Three Wheelin'
Exactly ^^^^ That's what I did and what I feel is the best way. If you have a stud and nylock nuts you will be good. I actually like the orange colored silicone gasket as it allows me to identify if something is a miss. With the cork (being the color of oil) its almost like they didn't want you to tell it was leaking...