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Two post lift

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Old 06-15-2014, 03:50 PM
  #16  
Eplebnista
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Made some measurements with my 928 on my two post lift. Looks like the front wheels droop about 6.5 inches and the rears about 5.25 inches with the car off the ground.

You would need to add these into your calculations. Remember also that you can't stop the lift anywhere that strikes your fancy. You will need to lift past the safety stops and then lower the carriage until the safety locks are engaged. If space constraints prevent you from using the highest stop, you will need to find out where the intermediate stops are from the lift mfr.

Bilal has a good point as well. I am going to have to remember that before monkeying with ride height and/or getting an alignment.
Old 06-15-2014, 04:16 PM
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RedRaider1
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Went with a four post 2-3 years ago. It's been a great investment.

My garage ceiling is close to 10' if I remember right. I went with the liftmaster jack drive to raise the door / rails as close to the ceiling as possible. In the pic you can see the difference between the left and the other door that uses the original setup.
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Old 06-16-2014, 12:27 AM
  #18  
82Porsche928
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Originally Posted by RedRaider1
Went with a four post 2-3 years ago. It's been a great investment. My garage ceiling is close to 10' if I remember right. I went with the liftmaster jack drive to raise the door / rails as close to the ceiling as possible. In the pic you can see the difference between the left and the other door that uses the original setup.
Sweet cars!!
Old 06-16-2014, 10:35 AM
  #19  
upstate bob
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If you opt for a two post you need a 5" floor or at least a thick area for a couple feet around the pads. I love my two post Rotary ($1200 used, installed myself). I leave my 928 on it, at the first click, to keep the tires round while I'm wintering in FL. I also keep a batteryMinder plugged to the jump post under the bonnet. You will need a taller ceiling than what you described. Change the garage.
Old 06-16-2014, 11:07 AM
  #20  
hacker-pschorr
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Originally Posted by upstate bob
If you opt for a two post you need a 5" floor or at least a thick area for a couple feet around the pads.
Minimum concrete thickness for all Rotary and Direct Lifts is 4 1/4" @ 3,000psi:

http://www.rotarylift.com/Support/FAQ/

http://www.directlift.com/Assets/manuals//DL9.pdf - page 13
Old 06-16-2014, 12:55 PM
  #21  
James Bailey
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Bendpack makes a TWO car 4 post lift ....double the fun
Old 06-17-2014, 10:08 AM
  #22  
Petza914
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I had Backyard Buddy build me a custom 4-post lift that I installed a couple years ago. It's custom because it uses their extended height posts, combined with the wider crossbars for their boat trailer lift and then I had them build me a 2nd set of support runners that mount inside of the those in order to handle the narrowest track of my 914 all the way out to the widest track of the boat trailer. My celing height is 11'4" so I have plenty of clearance and converted my garage door to use Liftmaster's Jackshaft openers and high-lift door tracks. I have the Bendpak rolling oil drain as well as two bridge jacks that I upgraded from the hydraulic manual pump style to pneumatic versions and they're strong enough to lift my 1/2 ton truck and large SUV. Being able to raise the lift to a comfortable work height and then raise the car off the lift to do suspension work is extremely convenient. In the summer while the boat is in the lake I store my trailer above either the pickup or SUV (we have a no trailer policy in the neighborhood so it has to go in the garage) and in the winter the truck moves outside and I roll the lift over to the bay next to it where it's closer to my work area. Did my last 997 oil change in flip-flops.
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Old 06-17-2014, 11:13 AM
  #23  
Don Carter
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Originally Posted by firemn131
One of my main goals is to be able to park under it.
Most 928's drip too much to park under them :-)

I vote 2 post as well. Love my Direct Lift with asymmetrical arms. Arm length is important and not all lifts work well with 928's.
Old 06-17-2014, 11:19 AM
  #24  
Don Carter
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
Minimum concrete thickness for all Rotary and Direct Lifts is 4 1/4" @ 3,000psi:

http://www.rotarylift.com/Support/FAQ/

http://www.directlift.com/Assets/manuals//DL9.pdf - page 13
The Direct Lift minimum concrete thickness was 4" a few years ago when I installed mine. I have right at 4" and have had no problems with cracking, etc... I think 4" is pretty standard for a residential garage floor, and should work fine.
Old 06-17-2014, 11:41 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Don Carter
The Direct Lift minimum concrete thickness was 4" a few years ago when I installed mine.
Same for Rotary, I'm not sure when that changed since the last time I checked was only a few months ago.

The "standard" listed is the 2006 ratings, so kinda of confusing.

Originally Posted by Petza914
I had Backyard Buddy build me a custom 4-post lift that I installed a couple years ago.
Nice setup!!

I actually have issues when trying to drive my 79 onto a lift like that (at a friends muffler shop for exhaust work) My car is so low, the header collectors and other low spots on the car hit the cross jacks. We had to jack up the front to "relax" the front suspension and a couple of guys push up on the rear to clear everything.

Never had issues getting 2-post arms to swing under.
Old 06-17-2014, 12:20 PM
  #26  
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Nice lifts. I have a direct lift two post symmetric arms, and have to be pretty precise positioning the car to get the arms to reach the lift points. Works great though, and ensures I have the car properly centered each time I lift it.
Old 06-17-2014, 01:30 PM
  #27  
dr bob
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Most 2-post lift manufacturers offer pretty detailed diagrams for post location and lift arm geometry. I looked long and hard at a wide 2-post asymetric, but only after carefully drawing the 928 lift points vs. the arm geometry to make sure I could get the doors open. But that configuration consumed too much precious garage real estate when not in use, so the portable MaxJax was the compromise so I could move the lift out of the way when not in use. There might be room to put a riding mower underneath a car on the MaxJax. It would be tight though.
Old 06-17-2014, 01:48 PM
  #28  
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Thanks, I just lift out the rubber pads of the bridge jacks when I back on and thene ever my super low 914 can drive on without any issues,


Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
Nice setup!!

I actually have issues when trying to drive my 79 onto a lift like that (at a friends muffler shop for exhaust work) My car is so low, the header collectors and other low spots on the car hit the cross jacks. We had to jack up the front to "relax" the front suspension and a couple of guys push up on the rear to clear everything.

Never had issues getting 2-post arms to swing under.
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Old 06-19-2014, 05:00 PM
  #29  
firemn131
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Thanks All for the input.
I have decided to go with the 4 post lift. Probably the Atlas Garage Pro 8000, from Greg Smith Equipment. If i had the extra cash I would go with the Back Yard Buddy. I dont anticipate a great deal of raises. Once I get the motor back in the 928, i expect to only raise or lower once a week. I am currently putting my sons 968 junk yard find back together. So realistically it will be 6 months before I get to think about stuffing the engine back in the 928.
Once again RENNLIST has come through again.

Thnx Guys.
John
Old 06-19-2014, 05:01 PM
  #30  
firemn131
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House Build starts Monday!!!!!!!!
Well, actually for me ....the GARAGE BUILD STARTS MONDAY..HAHAHA


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