Timing belt scholars
#1
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Anyone doing a TB/WP job on a non-integrated engine in the Atlanta area soon? I would like to learn how to do this job as my '83 belt broke a week ago and I'm trying to build confidence and exprience on how to do this job myself.
I would gladly assist on a car or would be happy to have some guidance while changing mine.
Thanks!
I would gladly assist on a car or would be happy to have some guidance while changing mine.
Thanks!
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I'm not in Atlanta unfortunately but I am in the process of doing this job. Finishing up today or tomorrow in fact. I have some pointers for you.
First off TAKE your time. That's the number one most valuable tip for this job.
Buy all the necessary parts from Roger at 928rus or Mark at 928intl or Carl at 928MS. They have everything you will need. Mark will have good used parts too. For example, my belt literally broke and it destroyed several of the engine covers and the small guide piece at the bottom near the harmonic balancer.
If your belt literally broke, you need to check and see why it broke. In my case it was a bad roller. I replaced pretty much everything on the front of the engine other than a couple covers and the tensioner (I rebuilt mine)(I'm sure someone will chime in here soon and begin a tensioner argument).
Also be sure to check cam gears, oil pump gear, and crank gear. If any have wear you'll need to find good used ones (many like the early steel gears) or you'll need to switch to the later gears and use the later timing belt (round tooth is the later belt, early belt is square tooth).
Basically anything with wear in the belt run should be replaced. Also recommended is replacing the water pump. Only use Laso or Genuine Porsche with the plastic impeller. The metal impeller is no good. It can work it's way off the shaft and drill a hole in the block.
Your car is not interference by design so that's nice. The only way your motor would have bent a valve is if there was excessive carbon build up. If you're worried about having damaged a valve you can replace the parts that are clearly bad and do a compression test and wait on the might-as-wells like water pump and seals. I say might as wells because we often replace these things pre emptively because it's easy to do while the front of the motor is apart.
Special tools required for this job are the Kempf tension tool, and the Porsche flywheel locking tool. The mentioned suppliers have these in stock.
I spent approximately $1,400 in parts to do my job. I needed more pieces than some people need. So that's what you're talking, maybe less, in terms of parts.
Good luck. It's not a job for the faint of heart but it isn't so bad when you're done with it. The peace of mind you gain, too, in knowing one of the most critical systems in your car has been thoroughly gone through, is invaluable.
Royal
First off TAKE your time. That's the number one most valuable tip for this job.
Buy all the necessary parts from Roger at 928rus or Mark at 928intl or Carl at 928MS. They have everything you will need. Mark will have good used parts too. For example, my belt literally broke and it destroyed several of the engine covers and the small guide piece at the bottom near the harmonic balancer.
If your belt literally broke, you need to check and see why it broke. In my case it was a bad roller. I replaced pretty much everything on the front of the engine other than a couple covers and the tensioner (I rebuilt mine)(I'm sure someone will chime in here soon and begin a tensioner argument).
Also be sure to check cam gears, oil pump gear, and crank gear. If any have wear you'll need to find good used ones (many like the early steel gears) or you'll need to switch to the later gears and use the later timing belt (round tooth is the later belt, early belt is square tooth).
Basically anything with wear in the belt run should be replaced. Also recommended is replacing the water pump. Only use Laso or Genuine Porsche with the plastic impeller. The metal impeller is no good. It can work it's way off the shaft and drill a hole in the block.
Your car is not interference by design so that's nice. The only way your motor would have bent a valve is if there was excessive carbon build up. If you're worried about having damaged a valve you can replace the parts that are clearly bad and do a compression test and wait on the might-as-wells like water pump and seals. I say might as wells because we often replace these things pre emptively because it's easy to do while the front of the motor is apart.
Special tools required for this job are the Kempf tension tool, and the Porsche flywheel locking tool. The mentioned suppliers have these in stock.
I spent approximately $1,400 in parts to do my job. I needed more pieces than some people need. So that's what you're talking, maybe less, in terms of parts.
Good luck. It's not a job for the faint of heart but it isn't so bad when you're done with it. The peace of mind you gain, too, in knowing one of the most critical systems in your car has been thoroughly gone through, is invaluable.
Royal
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FYI, one of the cams is more prone to breaking. Someone will reply with which one that is. My cams were both fine.
It is also an excellent time to do cam seals and o rings, oil pump o ring, oil pump bolt o rings, and crank seal. It's cheap and prevents a mess.
It is also an excellent time to do cam seals and o rings, oil pump o ring, oil pump bolt o rings, and crank seal. It's cheap and prevents a mess.
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Thanks for the advice.... Congrats on your TB/WP Job! My TB broke at 3 in the am on the way home from a trip. Fortunetly I was only 3 miles from home. I always knew this day would come and now I'm getting ready for the chanellge. I have never done a major job on any car before so I'm a bit nervous as I do not fully understand all of the componets to do this job.
#5
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Some of the timing belt change topics have good explanation and schematics on some of the components for you.
We were all holding our breathe the first time we jumped into big jobs. The Forum will help.
Best Wishes.
http://www.928intl.com/repair.htm
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here is another good resource: http://static.ibsrv.net/autocomm/Con...er%202012.pdf;
Also, look up Dwayne's DIY tutorial too. It is for an S4, but read it anyway. Study first, then get parts, then clean, clean, and when you think the area in the engine bay is clean, clean it one more time. Also, get the correct tools. I have used more of my tools on this job than I have in awhile. I had to buy a number of new ones too.
Also, look up Dwayne's DIY tutorial too. It is for an S4, but read it anyway. Study first, then get parts, then clean, clean, and when you think the area in the engine bay is clean, clean it one more time. Also, get the correct tools. I have used more of my tools on this job than I have in awhile. I had to buy a number of new ones too.
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The TP/WP job on your 83 is really not that bad, as Royal said make sure you have all the parts and dive in. The hardest part is getting everything taken apart. Time consuming with all the belts and bolts but not too hard. The power steering is the most difficult. Be sure to mark your belts so you know which is which and tighten everthingf to spec. If you have the stock tensioner this is a great time to check it out and rebuild and refill it at this time as your will have to remove it to do this job or just get a Prokentensioner and relace while you are at it. If you do be aware that there is a 3-4wk delay on these. Also read up on how to set the cam timing before you begin so you save time when you are ready to install the new belt. Not too hard but must be done right to get the car started again.
Best of luck and put your car info into your tag line.
Best of luck and put your car info into your tag line.
Last edited by antsmands; 06-02-2014 at 01:59 PM. Reason: Typos
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#8
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Very good advice here. Allow me to add my own. I have done this job twice in 9 years. The first time I took shortcuts, just hoping to get a new belt on it and replace the tensioner. I was a rookie and I was just happy not to break anything and get it all back together. About 5 years later my waterpump started leaking. I tore it all down again, and this time I was very sensitive to worn parts and doing the job right. New pump, gears, belt, and I swear it even ran better. You probably don't want to do this job twice, so indeed take your time and analyze for wear.
Good luck,
Dave
Good luck,
Dave
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Thank you!
I would begin with reading the Porsche Workshop Manual. Whether you do it yourself or not, it's always good to know what's going on. I read about the job 3-4x before I embarked.
I would begin with reading the Porsche Workshop Manual. Whether you do it yourself or not, it's always good to know what's going on. I read about the job 3-4x before I embarked.
#10
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And... don't rush.
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Wow... You guy's have giving me new hope and a lot of good insight. It will probably take me the whole summer (I only have the weekends to work on it) to complete this project as I'm going to do everything I can while I'm in there.
You guy's may get a lot more questions over the next few weeks as start I embark on this project. Hopefully one day I can stand among you guys in the 928 Timing Belt Hall of Fame!
Thanks so much for all the great advice!
_______________________________________
'83 white auto
'83 black auto
'83 red Euro man
'93 black 968 man
'87 white 944 man (dd)
You guy's may get a lot more questions over the next few weeks as start I embark on this project. Hopefully one day I can stand among you guys in the 928 Timing Belt Hall of Fame!
Thanks so much for all the great advice!
_______________________________________
'83 white auto
'83 black auto
'83 red Euro man
'93 black 968 man
'87 white 944 man (dd)
#14
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I have my old Belts hanging in the corner of my garage as trophies.
When I'm done with a Big job, I come in and dramatically say 'I Have Made Fire' and watch my wife roll her eyes...
When I'm done with a Big job, I come in and dramatically say 'I Have Made Fire' and watch my wife roll her eyes...
#15
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