Chalkboss

Still trying to get the pump off. I am confident I will get them out, just will take time and patience, of which I have both. Of course I might lose my mind before all that.

MainePorsche

Thanks Ed.
Didn't know that - now I do. One learns everyday.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Remove the radiator. Use an impact driver to remove the WP bolts. It sounds rough, but is gentler on the bolts than any other method. You can get a cordless model with 1/4" or 3/8" socket capability. I think it is in one of the writeups cited above.
Good luck,
Dave

syoo8

A quick note from a fellow 'newbie.'

If this is the biggest job you've done, you will undoubtedly need to buy a lot of tools for this job. I needed three different torque wrenches (the main crank bolt needs to be torqued to 217 ft-lbs, which is a lot) for example. Different kinds of anti-seize (Optimol TA and HT.) That's scratching the surface.

The beginning of Dwayne's write-up has a list of what is needed to do this job.

I can tell you that between the intake refresh and timing belt jobs that I did a year ago, I spent twice as much on tools as I did on parts. (I did, admittedly, not buy 'cheap' tools.) Keep that in mind.

Make sure you have the tools before you do anything. Also have some brushes and some type of mild engine cleaner to scrub away all of the dirt that you will need to clear before working.

Make sure you have a lot of baggies and a Sharpie handy. I bought a tray with many small square compartments to hold bolts and things. Label compulsively- you will thank yourself upon reassembly.

Make sure to take a lot of pictures. More than you think you need- you will thank yourself later.
You have to have a way to jack up the car onto jack stands safely.

I would also save some money to buy the parts that you will want to change while you are in there. There will undoubtedly be other things broken when you take everything apart.

Good luck- I had an amazing time doing the TB job, but it is intimidating at first.

MainePorsche

Scott and others have given good advisement on the TB/WP job. If you are going to work on your car down the line, you will no doubt have to get it level and safely lifted. If you are able, a lift would be optimal. I use Liftbars. Easy up/easy down. Can get evenly, and safely to the top of jackstands (at least 6 ton you want). The Liftbars also give you an extra 2 inches. I've removed and installed a transmission under them. One of the best 'tools' I've invested in.

http://liftbars.com/

Andre The Giant

I have done my first tb/wp and tensionner job ever by following Dwayne's write-up, even if mine is an '85, most of the stuff is relevant. Believe me I was terrified to do this type of critical job on a 32V motor, but now I feel very confident and satisfied knowing it's well done. Of course I had some help from my buddy Bertrand, thank you again Bertrand. Good luck

dr bob

The first time I did the TB/WP on my car, I ran video cameras the whole procedure and narrated as I worked. I made some mistakes even after reading the WSM and the guides available at the time, all well documented on video. Between that and the sequential work method I was able to do the job in a couple days. Consider that many of the procedures were done a few times for the camera, once wrong, head scratch, reassemble, and then disassemble 'correctly'. Two or three 'takes' on some stuff, and that chews through time. Same on reassembly. Even with the guide and the work method, some of the reassembly took a couple 'takes'. Plus a lot of extra lighting to get decent video quality.

For some perspective, I put myself through the first round of school decades ago by working on interesting cars after learning how to maintain my own. Much more rewarding than flipping burgers. Then went on to designing and building packaging machinery for a large consumer-products company. Then the racing program, and the other stuff. So my hands fit the tools pretty well, although not for money in the last several decades.

All that video? It's here, twenty-some hours of it, but needs some serious organizing and editing. I'm not sure that anyone is ready to watch eight hours of documentary evidence after editing to support an eight-hour project. I still refer to it once in a while when I have stuff apart, mostly to make sure I have the right detail pieces like cable ties and other fittings in exactly the right place per the original assembly at the factory.

The most recent TB effort chewed up about six hours of actual worktime. This time with power tools (low-torque pneumatic ratchet) for a lot of the disassembly.

ezrajones

Thanks for the information and encouragement! You guys are the BEST!

I'm almost starting to wonder if it is cheaper to let my mechanic do the job but I don't want to chicken out now.

I have three 928s so, I need to learn this... Besides, the satifaction of knowing that I did the job right is well worth the time and effort! This seems like an awsome challenge for me!

I'll keep you guys posted on this project....

Andre The Giant

How unlucky can you get. I'm very fortunate not to have one bolt brake on my WP, I was terrified of that.
Good luck.

dr bob

Ezra-- If you have three of them and have finite financial backing for hobby-projects, you'll get 3x the payback from learning to do them yourself, and investing in the tools. Plus you have a bit of certainty that the job is done well.

robot808

Here's a link to Doug's thread on Rennlist. Great write-up!

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

^^^^+1 A very good 16 valve write-up. Glad I had it, plus Kelly's handbook which is more for 32 valve engines.
Good luck,
Dave

Fogey1

This recent discussion of, inter alia, broken water pump bolts on a timing belt job may be helpful.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-belt-job.html