Timing belt scholars
06-02-2014, 03:38 PM
#17
Advanced
Thread Starter
I just checked out Dwayne's DIY tutorial...Amazing!! He states that he's a Newbie but he must of minored in Rocket Science for kicks while working on his Ph.D!
06-02-2014, 03:42 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
Bookmark this link.
http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/
Dwayne lives up in Ridgecrest, CA. Wouldn't surprise me if he worked at Edwards AFB on 'thing's'.
Add: Is your car an Auto ? If so you must do the Flexplate business as Dwayne describes.
http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/
Dwayne lives up in Ridgecrest, CA. Wouldn't surprise me if he worked at Edwards AFB on 'thing's'.
Add: Is your car an Auto ? If so you must do the Flexplate business as Dwayne describes.
06-02-2014, 03:47 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Ezra - The Bible for 16V timing belt procedure is the one written by Douglas Brownridge. There is a link to it posted somewhere in the depths of the Rennlist archives. He wrote it back in 2012. Make sure you get his revised copy (November 2012) - where he added a few details.
If you can't find it, PM me your email address and I'll send you the PDF. It literally takes you through every step with full color pictures.
Good luck. I'm doing my first tbelt job this summer as well. Wish I was clsoer to Atlanta. I'd like to tackle it with a friend looking over my shoulder too.
If you can't find it, PM me your email address and I'll send you the PDF. It literally takes you through every step with full color pictures.
Good luck. I'm doing my first tbelt job this summer as well. Wish I was clsoer to Atlanta. I'd like to tackle it with a friend looking over my shoulder too.
06-02-2014, 03:52 PM
#23
Here is a link to a timing belt & water pump tutorial for OB's like yours. I have an 84, so your 83 should be pretty much exactly the same as mine. If I recall the only thing that was different in this guide was that a couple of bolts for removing the accessory belts were different, but otherwise this guide was spot on and easy to follow. I hadn't done a damn thing on a car before either, but I took my time and got through it without any problems. And hey, even if you screw something up, take solace in the fact that there isn't much catastrophic damage you can do changing a TB in a 16v NA engine anyways. 
Edit: It looks like someone else mentioned this guide as I was writing this post, but this is the revised guide that he was referring to. Enjoy!
Edit: It looks like someone else mentioned this guide as I was writing this post, but this is the revised guide that he was referring to. Enjoy!
06-02-2014, 04:01 PM
#25
Advanced
Thread Starter
I'm in expert at causing catastrophic damage so that's really reassuring! Thanks so much for the link... I'm sure it will be very helpful.
I'll keep you posted...
I'll keep you posted...
06-02-2014, 04:31 PM
#26
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
..."going to take me all summer"... Is probably not the best plan. At least it wouldn't be for me. My work method on projects like this starts off with a plan. For this project, that's reading one or two of the excellent instructions/guides mentioned above.
Then a phone call to my favorite parts supplier, describing the project to them, and let them build you a 'care package' with every part you'll need. Saves a ton of frustration and delay when you find that you are missing some stupid-simple part. That usually causes delays, or worse it tempts you to compromise by putting the old worn parts back in.
Gather the tools you'll need, based on the instructions. Most you'll likely find in your garage or at a local tool store, but there are a few specialty tools that will be needed only for this job.
-- The crank will need to be locked in place with a special tool. You can buy one, or call out to other local owners who might have one to loan.
-- The crank nose bolt is a stubborn sucker, and deserves a 3/4-drive socket and long breaker bar.
-- Then you'll need a torque wrench that goes to at least 250 lbs/ft to be able to retorque that bolt again. You can often rent the 3/4-drive tools locally, or again call out to your other local owners to see if the tools can be borrowed.
-- The actual belt tension is adjusted based on a reading from a belt tension guage. My local parts vendor 928 International carries a remake of the early Porsche tool, it's called the "Kempf tool". Others vendors may also have it. Buy one, or borrow one locally.
The work itself:
Clean everything you can in advance, -after- you drain the coolant via both the raditor drain plug and the block galley drain bolts. The galley bolts drain the block down below the height of the thermostat, something not available with just the radiator drain. These galley drains can be a chore to remove the first time. Failure to drain the block will mean a coolant bath and flood later when you pull the water pump, so it's better to get the coolant out in a more controlled manner, in my opinion.
I lay out a clean parts-receiving table, and start disassembling per the instructions. Pieces are layed out starting at the far end of the table, working my way towards the near end as I get everything off. As others suggest, bolts and small bits are bagged and tagged as they go to the table. Once everything is off I can start cleaning stuff, again working from one end of the table to the other. When I get to a part hat will be replaced, I just swap the new part for the old on the table and keep going.
Then go after the front of the engine for more cleaning. When you are done, your work area is clean again, and you have a table of parts and pieces ready to go back onto the cleamn engine. Just start at the near end, and you'll be reassembling in the reverse order of disassembly. The cleaned nuts and bolts are bagged and in order with the parts they fit. This helps avoid that annoying question at the end "I wonder where this bolt went?", or the inverse "I wonder where that bolt went?" You'll know you're done when the project table is empty.
This all leads back to why 'taking all summer' is a bad idea. The more time that pieces are on te table, the more opportunity there is for pieces to move on the table. Or worse, they move off the table. The project gets back-burnered because it's overwhelming especially without a plan. Then your disassembled project car shows up on Craigslist for next to nothing, maybe listed as part of divorce settlement. None of us want that!
But there's hope too! Every once in a while around here, we plan clinics for owners who have similar project needs. Often when I know I need to do something like a brake fluid flush, I'll alert others and they will come by to do the same service. We've done timing belt clinics, motor mounts, suspension, alignment, brakes, appearance, wheel bearing clinics, R&R engine clinics, etc. Alert others in your area that you are scheduling a workday for your project, offer food and drink, and get some guidance and help on your project. The general theme around here is that we will help you on your car so you get the double benefit when possible.
Then a phone call to my favorite parts supplier, describing the project to them, and let them build you a 'care package' with every part you'll need. Saves a ton of frustration and delay when you find that you are missing some stupid-simple part. That usually causes delays, or worse it tempts you to compromise by putting the old worn parts back in.
Gather the tools you'll need, based on the instructions. Most you'll likely find in your garage or at a local tool store, but there are a few specialty tools that will be needed only for this job.
-- The crank will need to be locked in place with a special tool. You can buy one, or call out to other local owners who might have one to loan.
-- The crank nose bolt is a stubborn sucker, and deserves a 3/4-drive socket and long breaker bar.
-- Then you'll need a torque wrench that goes to at least 250 lbs/ft to be able to retorque that bolt again. You can often rent the 3/4-drive tools locally, or again call out to your other local owners to see if the tools can be borrowed.
-- The actual belt tension is adjusted based on a reading from a belt tension guage. My local parts vendor 928 International carries a remake of the early Porsche tool, it's called the "Kempf tool". Others vendors may also have it. Buy one, or borrow one locally.
The work itself:
Clean everything you can in advance, -after- you drain the coolant via both the raditor drain plug and the block galley drain bolts. The galley bolts drain the block down below the height of the thermostat, something not available with just the radiator drain. These galley drains can be a chore to remove the first time. Failure to drain the block will mean a coolant bath and flood later when you pull the water pump, so it's better to get the coolant out in a more controlled manner, in my opinion.
I lay out a clean parts-receiving table, and start disassembling per the instructions. Pieces are layed out starting at the far end of the table, working my way towards the near end as I get everything off. As others suggest, bolts and small bits are bagged and tagged as they go to the table. Once everything is off I can start cleaning stuff, again working from one end of the table to the other. When I get to a part hat will be replaced, I just swap the new part for the old on the table and keep going.
Then go after the front of the engine for more cleaning. When you are done, your work area is clean again, and you have a table of parts and pieces ready to go back onto the cleamn engine. Just start at the near end, and you'll be reassembling in the reverse order of disassembly. The cleaned nuts and bolts are bagged and in order with the parts they fit. This helps avoid that annoying question at the end "I wonder where this bolt went?", or the inverse "I wonder where that bolt went?" You'll know you're done when the project table is empty.
This all leads back to why 'taking all summer' is a bad idea. The more time that pieces are on te table, the more opportunity there is for pieces to move on the table. Or worse, they move off the table. The project gets back-burnered because it's overwhelming especially without a plan. Then your disassembled project car shows up on Craigslist for next to nothing, maybe listed as part of divorce settlement. None of us want that!
But there's hope too! Every once in a while around here, we plan clinics for owners who have similar project needs. Often when I know I need to do something like a brake fluid flush, I'll alert others and they will come by to do the same service. We've done timing belt clinics, motor mounts, suspension, alignment, brakes, appearance, wheel bearing clinics, R&R engine clinics, etc. Alert others in your area that you are scheduling a workday for your project, offer food and drink, and get some guidance and help on your project. The general theme around here is that we will help you on your car so you get the double benefit when possible.
06-02-2014, 05:04 PM
#27
Advanced
Thread Starter
Dr. Bob,
Excellent advice! I see your point and your right. This needs to be an well organized and planned operation. For a newbie such as myself, I'm just not sure how long this job should take provided the fact that I have all the parts needed to do the job and not run into any major problems along the way.
Excellent advice! I see your point and your right. This needs to be an well organized and planned operation. For a newbie such as myself, I'm just not sure how long this job should take provided the fact that I have all the parts needed to do the job and not run into any major problems along the way.
Last edited by ezrajones; 06-03-2014 at 12:25 PM.
06-02-2014, 05:22 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
see my post 6 above - I linked to it there.
06-02-2014, 05:27 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
Dr. Bob,
Excellent advice! I see your point and your right. This needs to be an well organized and planned operation. For a newbie such as myself, I'm just not sure how long this job should take provided the fact that I have all the parts needed to do the job and run in to no major problems.
Excellent advice! I see your point and your right. This needs to be an well organized and planned operation. For a newbie such as myself, I'm just not sure how long this job should take provided the fact that I have all the parts needed to do the job and run in to no major problems.