I'm trying to remove the A/C pressure line that runs from the receiver/dryer at the front of the car to the expansion valve at the firewall. My GT has a leak in the line in the rubber hose portion and I want to remove it to get it repaired/rebuilt, but I can't seem to break the 5mm hex head bolt loose that holds the end of the pressure line and the end of a line from the fuel chiller to the expansion valve (see photo).

Has anyone else done this and have any tips? I can't get a hex bit and ratchet on the bolt, and the 5mm hex key I have isn't "big" enough to give me leverage to break it loose. Maybe I'm being over cautious here, but don't want to break the hex key off in the bolt. Is there that much torque on this 5mm hex head? Or do I just need to go for it and it will break loose(?).

Suggestions, BTDT tips very much appreciated. Also, if you've done this, how did you snake the line out of the engine bay with engine and accessories still in the car? It's starting to get hot here in Phoenix and I'm going to need the A/C!

 

Get a long (6") 5 mm ball hex socket, and poke it through the grommet that the pressure line goes through. Kroil the bolt and let it soak first.

As far as getting the line out, do you have rear A/C? Actually, whether you do or not, it'll be easier to take the radiator out and have the rubber section of the hose replaced in situ. I pulled the pressure line out of my GT years ago, never again. Enormous PITA.

 

A small blowtorch (e.g. a chef one) and heat the alloy block of the expansion valve with it - just be careful of the harnesses. Being aluminum alloy it'll heat quickly.

Funnily enough I've always found that one a bit scary to crack - takes a surprising amount of force, and the nagging worry of "wtf do I do it if strips *there*" is nasty!

 

Thanks Rob and Hilton, sounds like it is a pain like I thought.

Rob, I happen to have the radiator out to repair a seeping side tank, so access to the line is a little(?) easier. When you say repair the rubber section of the line in situ, do you mean that I'd have to have the right tools to do it myself? I don't have them, so I plan to take it and have it "rebuilt". I was hoping that removing the line was about the same amount of fun as removing the long power steering line on the other side of the motor...

 

Expansion valves are not expensive. If the 5mm cap screw stripped, I'm pretty sure you could buzz the head off with a die grinder and replace with new hardware.

 

Rick--

I seldom disagree with Hilton's advice, but I'll make a different recommendation for this bolt. The bolts pass through the expansion valve, and thread into the double-U retainer plate at the rear. Heating the aluminum expansion valve will expand it between the plates and only make the tension on the bolt greater. If anything, a dry ice bath would be the method of choice on the aluminum part.

For this duty, consider finding a longer hex driver bit. I bought a set of long impact-rated drivers at Harbor Freight that might do the trick for these bolts. There are also longer 'regular' bits (like 4"+) that would be the second choice. I'm not a big fan of the ball-end drivers except as a last resort, since the pressure on the hex is so, um, localized. Or buzz the head off as Craig suggests. Then you'll just need a new bolt.

On the runner part of the line, go make a deal with your hose rebuilder to come and replace the rubber section in place, as Rob suggests. The 'field service fee' foer the tech will Shirley be less than the aggravation factor trying to get the metal section snaked out around all the fenderwall plumbing and that annoying engine. What maroon ever came up with the idea that a Porsche engine should be in the front? Having it done in place helps assure that the clocking on the fittings is correct too.

 

You don't want to take the pressure line out. Trust me.

 

I did, but my mind blocked how I did it to spare me the memories of twisting, turning, bending, cursing, spitting, hair pulling frustration. I do remember victory as it tasted very sweet. No A/C line can defeat me!! HAHAHAHA

 

Just wanted to get the sucker out. Me against the A/C line. Mano a mano.

 

I've used a small pipe to extend the length of the 5 mm hex, enough leverage w/o heating will break it loose, be sure you are square and full y seated.

Dave

 

Yes Aryan,
But were you able to install it back?

 

Oops, good point, I failed to remember that it's a compression fitting.