85euro928

There's a port, although I don't know what it's for, there's just no O2 sensor.

Pfc. Parts

Well then. That would certainly make the Blinkr' useless

928wolf

Thanks for all the help!

928wolf

Would you happen to have a picture of this port? I don't see anything like that near my cat. If it's upstream and buried I'll have to look harder.

I suspect these grey-market conversions were all custom jobs, no?

If I have to drill a new hole I'm going to try the ear method first.....

Thanks again,

85euro928

If I'm not mistaken the 'bung' is usually on the top towards the front. It may have a bolt or something in it if it's not being used. If that's the case you may want to just tune it by ear as the bolt is probably rusted in to the cat.

85euro928

I may have stumbled on to something. I have the injectors out for cleaning so with the exception of some additional ground cleaning I want to do I'm out of luck with respect to fixing my lean issue, however I was thumbing through the wiring diagrams on the train today and noticed that the Aux Air Reg and the Fuel Pump both share the same power source (unless I'm reading the WD wrong). While troubleshooting a while back I noticed that I was getting less than battery voltage across the AAR. Could this mean that I'm also getting less than battery voltage at the fuel pump?
I'll post a cropped version of the WD with the area in question later tonight.

Mrmerlin

once you get the car back together it would be wise to test for output power at the BACK of the CE panel for the fuel pump.

The input power is the top row,
the output is the lower row,

what happens is that the fuse brackets corrode,
then power comes into the fuse ,
and thus out of the FUSE.

BUT it stops at the fuse holder,
thus the output wire will not read 12V
Spray the CE panel with Deoxit spray

85euro928

Thanks, I'll take a look.

dr bob

^^^ What Stan suggests, plus put a new fuel pump relay in just for good measure. Mine was slowly getting tired until it stranded me (in the driveway, fortunately). Low voltage can easily be the connections in the fuse holder and/or the relay socket. The 53B relays are pretty inexpensive at $5-10 depending on what and where you find them, and cheap insurance if nothing else. Lots of folks start off the deep end of fuel and ignition symptoms, when the core problems of low voltage are at the root. So clean the grounds, DeOxit the CE panel sockets, and replace the critical relays first. Mr. James Bailey, 928 sage and technical/spiritual advisor to cult members, shares his "relay-relay-relay" mantra to any who will listen and heed his advice. Many are called, some hear the calling, and learn from it. Others just pass it on to voicemail and are again almost-hopelessly lost. Amen.

85euro928

Dr Bob,
The first thing I did when I got my car was to clean and treat all the ground points and connectors I could find, and change all the 53 relays. It made a big difference in how the car idled. That was 6 years ago so I guess it's about time I did it again. Thanks for the advice. Oh, and I keep at least 3 of the 53 relays and every sort of fuse I could need on board at all times. I also had a no start problem that turned out to be a relay, also in my driveway

85euro928

Here's the Wiring Diagram I said I would post. Please excuse all the colored tracings, I've been using these WD's for a couple of years now so they're bloodied up.
If you take a look at the two transparent yellow ellipses you'll see the Fuel Pump on the lower left and the Aux Air Reg on the right. Following the feed back to relay XX you can see that both of these devices share the same power source, this is where I think my problem is.

dr bob

Thom,

Be sure you are testing the whole circuit. The fuel pump power feed comes directly off the battery positive post, one of those smaller red conductors that has the separate little nut on the head of the clamp bolt. (later cars are different, BTW). More than a few fans (on S4+) and other mysterious problems have been cured by cleaning, tightening and re-sealing those smaller connections at the battery.

85euro928

So it turns out the multiple problems I was having with my car were electrical. It seems the PO had the Clifford aftermarket alarm system removed by a hack who used speaker wire to patch the fuel pump feed back in. Notice the green on the speaker wire? I imagine that the corrosion along with the fact that the speaker wire was crimped and twisted to several other much smaller wires along the path are what led to this eventually becoming the problem it did. The rats nest of wires ran behind the CE panel, up behind the radio, up over the steering column and terminated at a relay above the drivers side dead pedal (where I imagine the original alarm was). It took the better part of a day to remove all this as I had to cut a wire, hook the battery back up, start the car, disconnect the battery, and start again, but all is good now and the car runs better than ever. At least I can sleep again at night

AirtekHVAC

Wow Thom! What a cluster fvck! Glad you sorted it.

Pfc. Parts

Good job. Amazing how many different problems present with the same symptoms. Thanks for following up.