The hatch on the '82 will only engage on the first "click". Att his point its technically closed, but has some verticle play and the rear wiper won't stay engaged. If one pulls up on the hatch, it will unlatch completely. The white plasic piece in the upper catch appears to have the edge worn off. One can push the hatch all the way down until the two plates are in contact, and still the lock won't fully engage.

Something in the latch/lock is clearly not working. What? Is this something that can be taken apart and adjusted, or is replacement in order?

This car has the factory alarm, and no remote hatch release.

 

I had the same problem with my '79.

The little nub on my latch had worn down enough so that a light tug would unlatch it. I have heard that you can shim the latch holder to get a little extra life, but I didn't even bother trying it.

I just bought a replacement latch part. My hatch works perfectly now. Here's the part for a non-alarm unit.

http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...em=21&mitem=25

It's easy to replace.

 

If you loosen the striker/receiver in the base, and move it backwards (towards the rear of the car), it will improve the retention of the hatch tongue. There was a steel shim of ~ 1/16" under my striker, but removing it made it hard to get the hatch to catch at all.
YMMV
jp 83 Euro S

 

I was having problems getting my remote hood latch to engage, and according to one tip on the nichols site, putting a square shim cut out of a plastic oil can under the rubber lip of the receiver would help. The theory is that over time the rubber wears and is not high enough. When I unlocked the hood with a key, there was no indication that I unlocked the hood, and I would have to lift the hood to see if anything happened. After the shim, I get a satisfying clunk when unlock happens, and the hood bounces up about half an inch. After reading Simon's message I'm wondering if I did the right thing though, perhaps I should replace the nub on the latch? It doesn't appear worn. Here's a pic of what I did, should be easy enough to try:



-Don

 

Hey, Don....

Why mess with success? Seems like you got the problem beat.

If it ever quits, you can just go with a replacement part.

 

Hey Simon,
If the wear IS on the nub and not the rubber receiver, then I'm shimming the wrong side, putting an oil cans width more stress on several feet of hood an its hinges. If that's the case, and I ask myself WWPD (What Would Porsche Do?), then of course the answer would be to replace the nub. But if I were to ask myself WWBMD (What Would the Bush Mechanics Do?), then the oil can shim is perfect! Laziness will probably prevail here, as there are more pressing things to do, and as you've noted, it doesn't look like I'm doing permanent damage to the car.

Even thinking about this is ****, I know, but the car was built by **** engineers...


Cheers,
Don

 

Heres a temp fix many of us **** Texas 928 owners have done. Mine has been fixed like this for over a year now and still working great. I'm going to order the new part to fix one day, but as to date, I have always forgotten.



From what I understand, the nub should not touch the lower locking mechanism until it touches the spring loaded plunger. At that point you should be able to lightly bounce the hatch lid on the spring with no interference.

 

Simple fix here...epoxy a nickle to the top of the white plastic piece. It will fix your problem.