linderpat

yes, the good stuff for the threads. Have it ready.

tda1

I did the exact same thing when doing my waterpump. Missed on of the 14 (not 13) bolts. I used a timesert and it was perfect. Get the kit you wont regret it.

dr bob

Excellent recovery. And great documentation for others to reference.


At some point in the support development for these cars, I see a need for a shared tool for water pump recovery. An aluminum (or steel...) plate, drilled to fit over the locating dowels. At each bolt hole, it's drilled out to accept a drill bushing that would guide a drill bit centered on the bolt holes in the block. It seems that we are spending more effort recovering from drilling problems especially off-center drilling. A setup with accurately-located holes for guide bushings would eliminate that part of the risk.


and... I'm still thinking that a stud kit for the pumps would be a Good Thing. It doesn't need to be particularly exotic. Put studs in while you can, rather than waiting for the inevitable broken bolt later.

linderpat

I will keep the old pump for just this purpose. I know it may be needed again by me or someone else local (I can loan it nationally out too if shipping is covered). The way I cut the top of the pump allows for the drill chuck to fit when drilling that hole, and guarantee a straight drill. The hole is slightly oversized now, though, because I needed to open it up for the larger bit.

The studs are still a great idea too. Best to do that before you have to drill out a hole. The only concern is if a leaky water pump or o-ring running coolant down the front rusts the studs. How do you drill that out? I guess it would depend on how the stud is installed.

F451

Nice work! Especially with the limited area you had to work with, could have very easily gone south.

And I know the fear of drilling into your block in anticipation of using a Time-Sert type fix. I had to put a Big-Sert in my motor mount ear in my block when the bolt snapped off and I ovaled the hole in the "fix" process.

Did a ton of research, Big-Sert to the rescue.

Was VERY nervous about it, but it worked perfectly.

Nice write up too, thanks for updating everyone. -Ed

Five-8

Thanks for taking the time to document this...

Glad it worked out for you.

Cheers,

dr bob

I would have no trouble putting SS studs in with SS nuts, and loctite holding the studs in the block. Wouldn't take more than blue really, so you'd have a fighting chance of heating them for later removal if necessary.

The over-the-top "solution" is to put Time-Serts in every hole, even when the bolts come out easily. Do it while you have easy access. A used water pump makes an OK drill guide but it's not perfect. A piece of 1/4" steel plate isn't too tough to drill for drill bushings. Taking a few of the suggestions in this thread, clamp a pump housing to a piece of steel plate. Use transfer punches to get the correct hole locations onto the steel. Then drill the steel for drill bushings at each bolt hole. Drill the indexing pin holes correctly so the plate will sit in the right place on the block. A few bolts and washers in good holes will hold the plate in place on the block. Drill block through the drill bushing holes and they will line up fine. Then tap for Time-Serts.

Same fixture for those who need to drill out broken bolts, just with different drill bushings. The broken stub of bolt needs to be flat on the end. A transfer punch dimples the end of the bolt perfectly centered, thanks to the drill bushing in the plate. Then drill through the same bushing with a left-hand drill, finish the threads after picking the chips out.