Brake backing plate- removal on 81 928
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Brake backing plate- removal on 81 928
I want to remove my backing plates for refinishing, both front and rear.
I see that I may need to remove the hubs? On the front it looks for sure, can I remove the front hub easily without damaging the seals or anything like that- just pull off carefully and then put it back.
The rear bearing looks completely pressed in- so I I have to remove the hub to get the plate off? ....if so then well then its staying put and Ill just have to paint them.
I want to send them to the plater for new Zinc coating.
I see that I may need to remove the hubs? On the front it looks for sure, can I remove the front hub easily without damaging the seals or anything like that- just pull off carefully and then put it back.
The rear bearing looks completely pressed in- so I I have to remove the hub to get the plate off? ....if so then well then its staying put and Ill just have to paint them.
I want to send them to the plater for new Zinc coating.
#3
Burning Brakes
On my gts front plates are made of steel and paited black, rears are made of alloyand have no finish, anyway iI cleaned them and then I sprayed clear lacquer to avoid oxidation and dirt sticking on them.
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
The outer rotor shields will come off easily once the rotors are off the hubs.
On the rear, there's an additional smaller shield inside the hub between the carrier and the parking brake mechanism. It's removable only with the drive hub removed from the rear wheel bearing.
Keith Widom refinished his in silver, consistent with the color of the pad-machined rotor faces. It made the wheel look better filled when he fitted larger diameter wheels. If I wasn't a stickler for originality, I'd go that route. My rotor hats are painted "wheel silver" with clearcoat so they match the wheels and are easy to keep clean. The shields would get that same treatment.
On the rear, there's an additional smaller shield inside the hub between the carrier and the parking brake mechanism. It's removable only with the drive hub removed from the rear wheel bearing.
Keith Widom refinished his in silver, consistent with the color of the pad-machined rotor faces. It made the wheel look better filled when he fitted larger diameter wheels. If I wasn't a stickler for originality, I'd go that route. My rotor hats are painted "wheel silver" with clearcoat so they match the wheels and are easy to keep clean. The shields would get that same treatment.
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Rear plates are off.
but i still have question about the fronts. If I undo the large nut will the hub just come off with the bearing, or will the bearing fall apart, or will I damage a seal?
but i still have question about the fronts. If I undo the large nut will the hub just come off with the bearing, or will the bearing fall apart, or will I damage a seal?
#7
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
The front rotors come off the hub after you remove the two allen-headed screws securing them. Caliper comes off of course. Then the sheilds are easily removable.
Trending Topics
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Everything is now off. Rears are easy as said above. the plate is a large C shape. I left the small one in place because its finish is fine ( just dirty) and hidden anyways.
The fronts, I removed the dust caps ( 2" exhaust clamp method with crow bar, worked great) and then the clamp and outer bearing. then carefully pulled the hub off taking care to not damage the seal. Then two 11mm bolts to undo and remove the plate, which is a a circular ring. then I put the hub back on to keep it all clean.
The fronts, I removed the dust caps ( 2" exhaust clamp method with crow bar, worked great) and then the clamp and outer bearing. then carefully pulled the hub off taking care to not damage the seal. Then two 11mm bolts to undo and remove the plate, which is a a circular ring. then I put the hub back on to keep it all clean.
#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
here are the plates, before and after plating.
I had previously hand-painted the fronts when they were on the car. the fronts are steel and were cad-plated factory. Rears are aluminum. refinish is gold-zinc front and rear clear anodize.
I had previously hand-painted the fronts when they were on the car. the fronts are steel and were cad-plated factory. Rears are aluminum. refinish is gold-zinc front and rear clear anodize.
#10
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Spend a minute and spray a couple coats of clear on the shields, and also on the rotor hats, so they keep that great finish for a longer while. The zinc will otherwise dull pretty quickly, and you'll find yourself re-re-plating in a year or two.