car dies when driving
04-30-2014, 09:10 PM
#32
Intermediate
As long as you promise not laugh..was at a swap meet and bought a timing light. Took it apart made a little box for the light and the controler eliminated the trigger switch and got 12' of shielded cable from a friend the light cost me 8 dollars, cable was free
05-01-2014, 06:05 PM
#33
I've been looking for a timing light, they seem to be in short supply these days. I'll have to check some of the pawn shops to see if they have anything.
05-01-2014, 06:14 PM
#34
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
And now with coil on plug where would you hook it ?
05-01-2014, 06:22 PM
#35
Intermediate
I still have cars with points and use a timing light and a dwell for setting the points thats if i dont have a book of matches
05-01-2014, 10:05 PM
#37
Instructor
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: South Bay, California
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Hi Indy Rev, I’ve owned my car for 14 yrs and I too experience the issue for 3 yrs. and thousands of dollars spent with no hope. I replaced almost every part that everyone mentioned here. I was ready to give up and sell my car until meet a rennlist member dzapre. He owns a shop and we meet last summer while he host Sharks meet in Chicagoland. He figured out the issue that no one could for years, even a 30yr Porsche master technician at the dealer was no help. IMHO it's the crank sensor. Replace it and enjoy your 928.
05-01-2014, 11:44 PM
#38
Race Car
Sean,
You could test for my favorite- check to ensure the battery is securely fastened down and that non of the cluster of connections on the positive terminal is temporararily shorting on the lid- does the cut out happen when you hit a bump by any chance? Look for signs of arching on the lid adjacent to those connections- I always insert a strip of sheet rubber in there[ a piece cut from some inner tube]
Always eliminate the silly ones first.
regards
Fred
You could test for my favorite- check to ensure the battery is securely fastened down and that non of the cluster of connections on the positive terminal is temporararily shorting on the lid- does the cut out happen when you hit a bump by any chance? Look for signs of arching on the lid adjacent to those connections- I always insert a strip of sheet rubber in there[ a piece cut from some inner tube]
Always eliminate the silly ones first.
regards
Fred
05-02-2014, 09:26 AM
#39
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Well I was hoping to be able to report back some news this morning...but parts aren't here yet. I'm hoping they will be here tonight when I get home from work. I am going to start with the CPS and see what that does. Im betting that it, because when I took everything apart this is what I found....
05-07-2014, 09:53 AM
#42
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Quick update. I replaced the CPS and it is still dying. Im awaiting the ignition switch to drop in. I finally got the old 1 out, what a pain. Will update as soon as I get the new part in.
I do have to say she is a blast to drive before she dies. I cant wait to drive her more than a mile from the house.
I do have to say she is a blast to drive before she dies. I cant wait to drive her more than a mile from the house.
05-07-2014, 10:08 AM
#43
I had a similar issues although not entirely the same. My car would idle fine but if you drove it above 2500rpm, it would die when it went back to idle. All signs pointed to bad CPS. Changed the crank sensor, tested alternate LH module, etc with no luck. Turned out to be a bad MAS. If you have access to a known good MAS, it is a quick swap out to test.
05-07-2014, 11:34 AM
#45
Nordschleife Master
Have you had a look at the ground points VIII & IX deep down at the back of the 'V' ? On MY 87 these ground fuel injectors, LH, and other important engine controllers.