86.5 clutch master
05-06-2014, 09:44 PM
#16
Team Owner
one thing to be aware of is the fact of the blue hose routing.
its possible that you can have the blue line installed in such a way as to create an airpocket in the line this will restrict fluid flow and cause bleeding and operational issues.
The cure is to have the line in a continuous rise to the feed port.
its possible that you can have the blue line installed in such a way as to create an airpocket in the line this will restrict fluid flow and cause bleeding and operational issues.
The cure is to have the line in a continuous rise to the feed port.
05-06-2014, 10:42 PM
#17
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
It's fairly easy. Protect your carpet. Grab some rags and position them below the clutch rod on the inside foot well.
Remove clip that holds rod onto pedal arm, leave attached to arm pivot at this time
Pull back boot off clutch master
Remove snap ring
Carefully slide rod off clutch pedal and apply pressure to keep piston in place.
Slowly allow piston to 'pop' out of master bore, you may literally hear the air escape.
Push piston back in place, put rod back on pedal and re-install clip
clean up and replace boot back in position.
I even had the piston come all the way out and was still able to re-install without bleeding but try to maintain pressure to keep things clean.
Good luck!
Remove clip that holds rod onto pedal arm, leave attached to arm pivot at this time
Pull back boot off clutch master
Remove snap ring
Carefully slide rod off clutch pedal and apply pressure to keep piston in place.
Slowly allow piston to 'pop' out of master bore, you may literally hear the air escape.
Push piston back in place, put rod back on pedal and re-install clip
clean up and replace boot back in position.
I even had the piston come all the way out and was still able to re-install without bleeding but try to maintain pressure to keep things clean.
Good luck!
05-07-2014, 05:47 AM
#19
Track Day
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I just did my c master. Very simple to remove and replace. I removed the lot in one go, replaced the master. To bleed I just bled the system normally, then removed the circlip from inside and burped the system. All done in just over two hours. I read heaps about it on this site and was worried. Don't be. If I did this again I could do it in under an hour.
05-07-2014, 06:55 AM
#20
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I just did my c master. Very simple to remove and replace. I removed the lot in one go, replaced the master. To bleed I just bled the system normally, then removed the circlip from inside and burped the system. All done in just over two hours. I read heaps about it on this site and was worried. Don't be. If I did this again I could do it in under an hour.
Åke
05-07-2014, 11:07 AM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I just did my c master. Very simple to remove and replace. I removed the lot in one go, replaced the master. To bleed I just bled the system normally, then removed the circlip from inside and burped the system. All done in just over two hours. I read heaps about it on this site and was worried. Don't be. If I did this again I could do it in under an hour.
05-07-2014, 10:22 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
05-08-2014, 10:48 PM
#23
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Thread Starter
05-14-2014, 05:35 AM
#24
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Easy
Sorry if I was gloating, but I read up heaps on the master cyl. Frankly I was scared, cutting holes...really? Maybe right hand drive cars are easier....burping the master cyl by removing the cyl in situ is the simple answer if you don't have access to power bleeding. Ok I was gloating....