jwillman

[QUOTE=Jadz928;11323402]Jim,
Leakdown reads good. System pressure good. Control pressures high.

On WUR, pin down lowers pressure, pin up raises pressure (to raise pressure you have to take apart WUR).

According to the two write ups linked on your site it reads like I would need to tap the pin out from the inside to reduce pressures versus tap in from the outside.

Am I reading it wrong?

Inside of the WUR was absolutely clean I need to look at the oring.

Anyone come up with an alternative seal for the WUR body?

Jadz928

What I wrote is how you do it. (Also listed in my quick tips section)

Could you pls send me the external links that read opposite?

The WUR body seal doesn't do much. Reuse or replace with appropriate size oring cord stock (mcmastercarr)
The orange diaphragm does do something important. Up 'til recently, It was not replaceable. But now there appears to be a source for it, of which I haven't yet tried.

jpitman2

Sometimes its the Oring causing high control, mostly its blockage/restriction of the inlet fitting, which needs the valve dismantling to properly clear.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

jwillman

Been a while since I last posted.

I pulled the WUR apart. Replaced the oring, tapped out the pin and reassembled.

I connected gauges and still had high pressure so I tapped the pin down just below the level of the WUR housing.

I now have 73% system pressure.
Cold pressure is 41psi with OAT near 100F, IR gun on WUR shows 95F. (that seems in the ball park of 44 psi at 100F)
Warm pressure stays at 41psi. I am only getting 8.25V to the connector for the WUR.
Cold start is immediate but idle is extremely rough and around 400RPM. Very erratic to no response to throttle. After 30 to 45 sec's idle stabilized at 850 to 900 and car idles and runs well with good response to throttle.

I pulled the aux air valve and it is open cold and closes when I heat the valve with a heat gun.

Thoughts on the ugly cold start issue?

jwillman

Well Jim Doerr's instructions were spot on as well as many stating that the internal o-ring being bad will raise pressures.

I hooked up the gauges again and had 71 system pressure, 41 cold control and 41 warm control on a 100F day.

Went out this morning and at 75F still had 41 psi cold control pressure. When I had the WUR apart to replace the internal o-ring I had tapped the adjusting post out to where it was flush with the WUR surface so i decided to try and tap it in to see what will happen to the pressure. That adjustment is very sensitive and I taped a bit to much and went to 25psi cold control

Took the WUR apart and tapped the pin back out, reassembled, reinstalled and checked and back to 41. This time I gently tapped with pump jumpered until I got 30psi cold pressure.

With power on and WUR connected it slowly rose to 41 warm pressure.

I now have good system , cold and warm pressures.

At this point I am sure I don't have the fuel mixture set perfectly as I don't have the equipment but it seems to idle well and run/ accelerate smoothly.

I will give it some time and check cold starts and system pressure again in a month.

Thanks for the help.

Jadz928

I'm happy for you... way to persevere!

That little Wur pin in sensitive, isn't it?!

SeanR

Well done Jim's. This thread is very informative and I'm impressed with how much Doerr has learned.

Jadz928

Haha! I'm not impressed that you can't speel my name curreckly.

SeanR

Whatchutalkingaboutwillis?

jpitman2

Your 41psi warm is a bit lower than mine at 45, but if your system is spec 65-75 (mine is 75) you might be a bit rich. My only test for cold pressure is starting and running well when stone cold, so I dont know my cold pressure - it starts and drives away every bit as good as a latest model anything.
See if you can find somebody with an Innovate MTX-L mixture gauge with the long lead (8ft) who will lend it, or come with you and test your mixture. Dont try to do it alone! I have found they are very responsive and tell you all you need to know. I got ~15.1 idling and cruising(just lean), and down to mid 10s while accelerating(middle rich). Mate with a blown Miata sees around 8:1 when the 5th injector comes in at full boost.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k