Ready to install my engine what other items look at before going into the engine bay
04-21-2014, 11:19 AM
#16
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With the engine out, do I still have to remove the parts to service? Do the Big 3(4) carry these kits?
04-21-2014, 11:38 AM
#17
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It was done as per the factory procedure with the special paste by an experienced 928/944 mechanic familiar with Alusil blocks. We decided that the block didn't need to be machined with the Sunnen machine and a lapping would be sufficient. This in spite of the fact that another fellow 928 enthusiast thought that I could hone it and lap it myself with a standard Princess Auto (Cdn version of Harbour Freight) honing tool. Actually the pasting procedure is not very difficult if you know what you are doing.
I was wondering who was going to catch that one. Good on you. You can claim your prize within 24 hours by driving up to Canada and pick it up from my shop which is closed on the Easter holiday weekend
I was wondering who was going to catch that one. Good on you. You can claim your prize within 24 hours by driving up to Canada and pick it up from my shop which is closed on the Easter holiday weekend
04-21-2014, 11:42 AM
#18
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Since you can get to it perhaps you'd want to put new foam on the fuel cooler? It's really easy to stand there and replace it with no engine in the way. I also took the time to replace the AC lines since they were easy to get to (relatively speaking). Did a whole new kit. Compressor, lines, expansion valves, condensor (the first time).
While you are at it why don't you get yourself one of my CondenseRSafe plates to put on your condenser so when the headlight arm someday comes off it won't go through your condenser and radiator. They are only $25 plus shipping. PM me if you want one.
While you are at it why don't you get yourself one of my CondenseRSafe plates to put on your condenser so when the headlight arm someday comes off it won't go through your condenser and radiator. They are only $25 plus shipping. PM me if you want one.
04-21-2014, 12:09 PM
#19
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Is this a problem? I have never heard of it happening before. You have some other good ideas I may follow up on.
04-21-2014, 10:12 PM
#20
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Livio,
Yep, well documented problem. Several options for preventative measures.
I understand the plate will also protect against armour piercing .50 slugs. So, should stop the arm cold.
Yep, well documented problem. Several options for preventative measures.
I understand the plate will also protect against armour piercing .50 slugs. So, should stop the arm cold.
04-21-2014, 10:17 PM
#21
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1) spin the shaft (does it make dry bearing sounds? Does it spin really easily?)
2) stand it up, reverse it, jiggle it (does it sound like there are big parts loose inside?)
3) examine the ends of the shaft for damage to the splines and run-out when spinning.
TT has sealed bearings. How old is the non-synthetic grease in them? Is it still grease? The bearing carriers are prone to deterioration/disintegration thereby allowing the bearings to migrate. Last the TT has either two bearings and a dampener or three bearings. One set-up is for auto the other for 5-speed, but I forget which is which. In any case the dampener can disintegrate and rattle around. Constantine replaces it with a third bearing.
Long story short I've done several Constantine TTs and in all cases the new TT did wonders to reduce drive train vibration (not to mention getting ride of noises...)
04-22-2014, 12:15 AM
#22
Three Wheelin'
TT removal is easy. It might be worth it at this point. I pulled mine to have a look at things. Plus you could also upgrade to the Lizard short shifter, it gets rid of the ball cup joint, so you could actually remove it instead of having to clamp it to the torque tube (which is just asking for annoying NVH) and have it sitting there like most people need to do. That's what i'm doing.
04-22-2014, 05:07 AM
#23
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No. This is the hose from the master cylinder reservoir to the clutch master. Connects behind the booster. Difficult to do with the engine out. Almost impossible with it in (many have cut a hole in the sidewall to gain access).
I used transmission cooler hose from NAPA. Was easier to put on and no problems so far.
TT removal is easy. It might be worth it at this point. I pulled mine to have a look at things. Plus you could also upgrade to the Lizard short shifter, it gets rid of the ball cup joint, so you could actually remove it instead of having to clamp it to the torque tube (which is just asking for annoying NVH) and have it sitting there like most people need to do. That's what i'm doing.