Mobius Rabbit

Hi All,
I have a 1980 manual, and have been having the following issue:
From a cold start, it takes about 7 tries to get the car started. The sequence usually goes something like this:

--first couple of tries the instrument lights come on but no crank.
--next two or three engine cranks but no fuel
--next two fuel but no start
--then it starts

After extended running it will start with the first turn of the key, even after sitting for a few hours. The car had been very sparingly driven before I bought it (probably 2K in 8 years) and these symptoms appeared after I drove it home from SF to Seattle.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated!

Rafael

Alan

So you turn the key to the start position and nothing happens?
no click? no whirr? do the dash light dim in the start position?

Alan

Mobius Rabbit

No click, no whirr, no sound at all. The dash lights are very dim to start with but the parking brake and stop light are bright and don't flicker. When the engine gets spark it's strong, ditto when it starts.

Also, when turned all the way to the right the key doesn't spring back but needs to be gently pulled back.

Alan

Well certainly sounds like you need a new ignition switch electrical part.. that probably explains that no crank issue - though its still odd thats its so repeatable...

Does it reliably restart quickly (re: the fuel issue) after its been running recently?

One alternative is that the fuel pump isn't running when it won't start... why?

Otherwise it sounds like you have an issue where your fuel lines are taking a while to pressurize. That means they are leaking out (a lot) OR draining back to the tank... Assume you'd have noticed a fuel leak. So I'd then suspect maybe some injector leakage AND a problem with the fuel vapor purge system that is causing you to maintain a vacuum in the fuel tank draining the fuel lines back into the tank.

Do you ever hear air noises when you remove the gas cap after running for a while?

Alan

Mobius Rabbit

The sequence is strangely repeatable. It starts with no problem once it's been running (i.e. stopping for gas). Haven't heard anything unusual when removing the gas cap, and no noticeable leaks either.

The fuel pump is a bit of a mystery as I have yet to hear it loudly enough to notice.

I've only owned the car for a few weeks, so still getting familiarized...

James Bailey

Get a new ign electric switch you can then test by unplugging the harness from the existing switch...put the pod all the way up and you can get to the plug and pull it down far enough to plug in the new switch then use a screwdriver to turn it...that will confirm that it resolves the problem BEFORE you take off the pod and remove the ignition lock. Very common problem I have seen many old 928s with added push button starter switches !
Be sure to get the good replacement switch as there are some rather ???? ones being sold....

Alan

Next time you drive it for a while - undo the gas cap right after and listen carefully?

After driving it - try leaving the gas cap a little loose overnight - see how it starts the next day?

Alan

Mobius Rabbit

Alan--I will give that a try and see what the results are.

To James' point, any recommendations on good replacement switches would be great.

ROG100

I sell the Porsche ignition switch for $107

Mobius Rabbit

Thanks Roger, I may need one depending on the outcome of the "investigation"!...

Alan

From what you described it was clear to me that you do need one - regardless of anything else...

Alan

Mobius Rabbit

On second reading I did catch the word "certainly" in your post...

Shawn Stanford

I found a dead-dead-dead battery and replaced it. As soon as I connected it, the warning lights and cooling fan came on with the key in the 'off' position, and the car wouldn't start.

I'm thinking ignition switch. Anyone disagree?

Still selling these, Roger?Do I need a new ignition lock? It's very loose...