NoVector

Doing my spring pre-drive stuff and checked the paint mark on the TT splines. They looked good, but putting a straight edge on the flex plate, it has about a 1 to 1.5 mm of bowing. To be honest, this is the first time I’ve ever put a straight edge on it. Before I always just released the pinch bolt, it’d slide back a little, check the TB play, retighten the pinch bolt and done.

So I’ve removed the pinch bolt and warmed things up a little in case of residual locktight, but before I go wild heating, prying and banging, I thought I’d better ask if it should be flat. If it is, what’s the best way to get it there as it doesn't seem to be sliding any further on its own. I’ve got two new pinch bolts and will do the rear bolt too, but before I go any further, I’d like to make sure this is right. I don’t really see a good place to pry from (?) I read an old Bill Ball post that said he wouldn't be too concerned about 1-2 mm so I'm just not sure... Danke sehr

Mrmerlin

first thing is the front clamp has to be able to slide on the splines and that any pressure is released.

does the crank have endplay?
and can it be positioned where you like it?
or is it preloaded?
if its preloaded then the rear clamp bolt should be removed and the cut out at the rear checked for position.

the flexplate being bowed wont hurt anything as long as the preload has been removed and as long as the distortion isnt excessive.

Leon Speed

The flex plate set a little concave from many years of axial thrust. I took a crow bar and pried in the center until it was more or less flat, then tightened the clamp + PKlamp. All good so far.