I can source reasonably close by, so if you're in need.....

 

I also got a can of this stuff I sprayed the whole CE panel and put the fuses and relays back in everything seems to be working

 

Did you pull the CE or just remove the fuses and relays and spray into the sockets?

 

Ordered both, thanks Stan

 

Caddy I removed the fuses and relays then gave the Ce panel a spray, and cleaned the fuse blades with an eraser

 

Stuff is pretty awesome. My brother is a medical tech and gave me a bottle 8 years ago. Had 90s corvette that nothing electrical really worked. After a couple weeks it was a new car, other than the hatch would phantom open at times.

 

I want this stuff. There seems to be a red, gold, spray, and tube. Does any one have a preference? Thanks.

 

Stans post #35 gives a link to the spray D5 which is good for just about everything, but if you want to avoid getting it over anything else then the same D5 with the needle applicator, which allows exact placement would be good.

I've mostly used the spray D5, and where I want to wipe it on an individual spot I spray some on a cotton tip and use that to apply it.

The gold is for precious metal contacts and pins in electronic components ... so the D5 is really all you need on a 928. They have a few other more specialised products for rheostats, faders, etc,

 

Thanks for the info Dave. Will order some today.

 

I just bought a spray can of deoxit d5 in the Radio Shack branded packaging. I sprayed it on one of the grounds that mounts near the CPS. The wires are green, and it didn't seem to do much to change that. Do you think I got some lower octane Radio Shack take on what's being described here?

 

It's darn good at removing oxidation from copper and copper-allow bits including brass. Seems to work on the tin-plated copper connectors too. Maybe not so good at removing copper chlorides from salt exposure (the green stuff).

 

dr bob, you're really good with all that chemical stuff. What would you use for the green stuff?

 

It's a curse... The chloride reaction is too common in the marine environment, hence the familiarity.

I'm not sure there's much available that won't do more damage to the wire itself. Copper oxidizes to form its own protective layer. You get to choose something low pH that reacts with the copper chloride but won't eat the copper itself. Certain soldering fluxes seem to do an OK job, but take a little brushing with something to remove the deposits.. Maybe somebody else has a solution. I usually just replace stuff that has green cancer eating it.

 

The green stuff ... try using sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) dissolved in hot water, which is really good at getting the oxidation off battery terminals and elsewhere. If that doesn't do it you can try vinegar, but make sure you follow up with sodium bicarbonate to neutralise it and stop the vinegar continuing to corrode. When finished, flush with water and dry off.

If the metal isn't too far gone, and one of these methods does the magic, follow up with deoxit as a corrosion preventative.

 

Can I spray some of this into my turn signal / high beam switch while it is connected to the steering column?