Windshield washer check valves
#1
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Windshield washer check valves
Of course the windshield washer doesn't work on my son's 82 5 speed. I found this out after being dive bombed by some Pterodactyl sized bird yesterday.
The switch works, the pump works, no leaks from the tank and the nozzles are not clogged. I ran air down each nozzle line and you can feel the air coming out the nozzle ports.
However, if you select windshield washer, no fluid comes out the nozzles, but actually fills up the intensive washer tank.
The intensive washer does work, but only out one side. I'm think there is a loose or clogged line going to the drivers side.
I took the check valves out and they seem ok but aren't these valves probably the problem?
If I replace the valves with regular T fittings, the intensive washer won't work at all. Is this correct?
Can you clean these check valves or just replace them both? if you run air into theses check valves should you feel air coming out the fitting going to the nozzles? These valves only seem to gurgle a bit, no strong stream of air.
The car was fully repainted 3 years ago, so who knows if the painter plumbed the washer lines back correctly.
Thanks
The switch works, the pump works, no leaks from the tank and the nozzles are not clogged. I ran air down each nozzle line and you can feel the air coming out the nozzle ports.
However, if you select windshield washer, no fluid comes out the nozzles, but actually fills up the intensive washer tank.
The intensive washer does work, but only out one side. I'm think there is a loose or clogged line going to the drivers side.
I took the check valves out and they seem ok but aren't these valves probably the problem?
If I replace the valves with regular T fittings, the intensive washer won't work at all. Is this correct?
Can you clean these check valves or just replace them both? if you run air into theses check valves should you feel air coming out the fitting going to the nozzles? These valves only seem to gurgle a bit, no strong stream of air.
The car was fully repainted 3 years ago, so who knows if the painter plumbed the washer lines back correctly.
Thanks
#2
Three Wheelin'
Sounds like you are on it.
My check valves were not salvageable. They did work but only at greater then 10 psi. which is nowhere near what your pumps will push.
Replace or delete them, in my opinion.
You can also detach lines as they enter hood and validate that both wash systems functional. I've had pumps that sound functional but activator arm has rusted and is no longer turning the pump -- just spinning within the pump case.
My check valves were not salvageable. They did work but only at greater then 10 psi. which is nowhere near what your pumps will push.
Replace or delete them, in my opinion.
You can also detach lines as they enter hood and validate that both wash systems functional. I've had pumps that sound functional but activator arm has rusted and is no longer turning the pump -- just spinning within the pump case.
#5
Electron Wrangler
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Lifetime Rennlist
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GTS cars don't havethe intensive but still have check valves (presumably to avoid drainback => faster washer action).
You could certainly go without check valves then you just have to wait a second or so for the lines to fill... if you use the car very infrequently it probably doesn't even make much difference - and even that's assuming the check valves actually ever seal well.
Considering how they are constructed thats not very likely esp if you fill the washer with anything but distilled (or at least softened) water.
Alan
You could certainly go without check valves then you just have to wait a second or so for the lines to fill... if you use the car very infrequently it probably doesn't even make much difference - and even that's assuming the check valves actually ever seal well.
Considering how they are constructed thats not very likely esp if you fill the washer with anything but distilled (or at least softened) water.
Alan