I have a -82 928S Euro model 4,7 310hp. 195000km, I´m having problem with cluch-releasing, it is difficult to engage gears. I open up and took out the cluch and when I look at this parts I can se that the front disc got warm, even flywheel and intermediate plate shows sign of "hot". if I lokk at parts catalog there should be 2 different types of discs, but in mine they are the same! Is this the reason of "clutchdragging"? What is really the different in discs, except for part no?, Is there any adjustment to carry out in mounting of intermediate plate? ( I use to work with trucks (Scania) and there is very important to make adjustment). I do have som Pictures but I don´t know how to post them, they are out on Fb Group porsche 928
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2381789741/

Greatful for all answers

 

Sorry for all wrong spelling ... ( I did not prewiev)

 

The splined part of the discs should be different length.
The intermediate plate adjustment is made by levering the sliders and measuring with feeler gauges.

There are a few reasons for dragging.
Hydraulics have air;
New hydraulic master cylinder having shorter-throw rod design
Worn pivot joint for acutator arm (ball and socket, the plastic socket disentegrates.
and others.

Pictures are easy to post in the 'go advanced' function; manage attachments. But the picture has to be sized down first and saved to your computer.
Here are some pictures of clutch parts for a twin disc clutch. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ple-notes.html
Did the car just start doing this?

 

The "T" adjustment on the intermediate plate ensures, with clutch actuated, that both the discs are free. ( First you must be sure that at least the ball joint / plastic socket is OK, or you need to replace it.)

Here is discussion about one method, using a ratchet strap under the car to actuate the clutch (instead of a helper). Some argue it is unsafe. But pay attention to the adjustment part of the description, where the three "T"s are moved with a screwdriver until there is freedom so that both clutch discs can turn free.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...djustment.html


search function will help you find more.

Bleeding out air is hard on these cars. Search for methods. Most folks use a power bleeder.

 

FWIW there is a detailed description in the WSM about adjusting the clutch,
meanwhile Chis has provided more than a few pointers

 

Want to add that I found there is no need to use any measurement, especially given the age of the parts.
Just make sure that the intermediate plate is "centered" or evenly spaced for the front and rear facing gaps when in "open" non-engaged position.

Use a Dry Lube on the "H"'s make sure they can move easily also the Clutch disks need to move easily on the spline (they float).

If the disks can't center themselves or the intermediate plate is not centered and or an "H" is stuck or warn out, it will drag even if you have full travel of the slave cylinder.

Don't sweat if you don't get it all correctly on your first try

Dave

 

Ahh Dave dont lubricate the H adjusters they are supposed to be a friction fit
IOW you would adjust them and then they should stay put .

NOTE these adjusters also lift the I plate rearwards to disengage the front disc.
When the friction fit is lost then the I plate adjusters will not provide enough lift to the plate thus causing it to drag on the discs
Perhaps reading the WSM will provide more info

 

Thanks I'll read up on that, I was told to use a dry lube, so I hit them with a shot of dry silicon when the assembly is on the bench don't really think it provides much lube, but that's what I was told.

Thanks,

Dave

 

MKibort had a thread where he actually pinned the H adjusters as his were slipping after they were adjusted resulting a continually dragging clutch once pinned the clutch worked great

 

Yes, still working great 5 years later!

DO NOT USE ANY LUBE ON THEM!!! NO NO NO! anyone that suggested that doesn't know how the H's work... sorry, that's just the honest truth.

 

If you have the intermediate plate out you can also substitute bolts, nuts and wave washers, as shown in the following pic (courtesy of Vilheur), to ensure you always have sufficient resistance to slipping out of adjustment once you have the adjustment spot on. That's what I did on mine, but pinning as Mark has done also works just fine.

I think it would be worth trying to get rid of the lube you've put on, using brake cleaner, as it will allow the adjusters to slip out of adjustment easier ... if you don't pin or bolt the adjusters.