Pinned Weissach axle...how to check?
#16
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if your front end is falling over excess roll the rear end ends up catching the roll and overloading the outside tire so more spring in the front may be what you need....
may not but just change one thing at a time !!
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#17
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Rule of thumb...One end loose, firm up the other end.
Something you can try without spending any money is to firm up that Devek bar that is set in the middle. That will tell you if front end body roll is lifting the outside rear mid-corner.
Here is an extreme example:
![](http://www.zipbang.com/944/turboturn.jpg)
Front springs and sway bar too soft. All the weight is coming completely off the inside rear tire in mid-corner.
Typically cornering setup is a trade off, you can either corner well in tighter slower corners and have oversteer in the big sweepers, or the other way around.
The way I set my sway bars is to find a flat paved area I can drive in circles about the radius of an average turn.
Then drive around in a circle so no steering input is required to maintain the circle.
Once that is established slowly increase speed until the car breaks loose.
If the front breaks first siffen the rear, if the rear breaks loose first stiffen the front.
Once balanced the car should just increase the radius of the turn as both front and rear break loose at the same time. When this happens you should be able to just lift off the throttle and the car will turn in, or add a little throttle and the car push out more.
When you get it balanced note the speed the car breaks loose.
Increase both front and rear sway bar stiffness until that speed no longer increases, or decrease both if the speed decreases.
This tunes the sway bars for maximum speed thru and best mid corner balance in your average turn.
Some tracks have more smaller turns, some have more larger turns. The trick is to setup the car for the fastest lap time by maximizing the corner speed where it makes the most difference in overall laps time. And yes, that may result in a car that pushes on the tight turns.
Something you can try without spending any money is to firm up that Devek bar that is set in the middle. That will tell you if front end body roll is lifting the outside rear mid-corner.
Here is an extreme example:
![](http://www.zipbang.com/944/turboturn.jpg)
Front springs and sway bar too soft. All the weight is coming completely off the inside rear tire in mid-corner.
Typically cornering setup is a trade off, you can either corner well in tighter slower corners and have oversteer in the big sweepers, or the other way around.
The way I set my sway bars is to find a flat paved area I can drive in circles about the radius of an average turn.
Then drive around in a circle so no steering input is required to maintain the circle.
Once that is established slowly increase speed until the car breaks loose.
If the front breaks first siffen the rear, if the rear breaks loose first stiffen the front.
Once balanced the car should just increase the radius of the turn as both front and rear break loose at the same time. When this happens you should be able to just lift off the throttle and the car will turn in, or add a little throttle and the car push out more.
When you get it balanced note the speed the car breaks loose.
Increase both front and rear sway bar stiffness until that speed no longer increases, or decrease both if the speed decreases.
This tunes the sway bars for maximum speed thru and best mid corner balance in your average turn.
Some tracks have more smaller turns, some have more larger turns. The trick is to setup the car for the fastest lap time by maximizing the corner speed where it makes the most difference in overall laps time. And yes, that may result in a car that pushes on the tight turns.
Last edited by RKD in OKC; 03-03-2014 at 03:48 AM.
#18
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ur undertired in the rear, its that simple. 280 slicks are like 275s in normal DOT tires and that's way too little tire for a car this big in the rear.
#19
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ur undertired in the rear, its that simple. 280 slicks are like 275s in normal DOT tires and that's way too little tire for a car this big in the rear.
get the ride height a little up front, that could cause a little some looseness in rear. go for 115mm front and the rear is fine. too much camber in the rear will do this to, especially with the hard sidewall slick. we took mark Anderson from 3 down to 2 degrees in the rear, and it helped his handling and tire wear. (he was loose at the time)
get the ride height a little up front, that could cause a little some looseness in rear. go for 115mm front and the rear is fine. too much camber in the rear will do this to, especially with the hard sidewall slick. we took mark Anderson from 3 down to 2 degrees in the rear, and it helped his handling and tire wear. (he was loose at the time)
#21
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I bought new springs....so I will install those 1st and see how things go.....my main goal is to reduce roll which results in bottoming out the front in T8...at about 100mph and 1.5g..not fun
When Sean drives Casper he said it bottoms out in three spots vs only one for me, but sean is 100lbs heavier.....
So springs 1st then maybe tighten up sway bar...but i did break it once already.....
When Sean drives Casper he said it bottoms out in three spots vs only one for me, but sean is 100lbs heavier.....
So springs 1st then maybe tighten up sway bar...but i did break it once already.....
#22
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I bought new springs....so I will install those 1st and see how things go.....my main goal is to reduce roll which results in bottoming out the front in T8...at about 100mph and 1.5g..not fun
When Sean drives Casper he said it bottoms out in three spots vs only one for me, but sean is 100lbs heavier.....
So springs 1st then maybe tighten up sway bar...but i did break it once already.....
When Sean drives Casper he said it bottoms out in three spots vs only one for me, but sean is 100lbs heavier.....
So springs 1st then maybe tighten up sway bar...but i did break it once already.....
When the suspension bottoms in 8 it doesn't inspire a whole lot of confidence. Once that problem is fixed I think 8 could be taken flat instead of with a slight lift as is the case right now.
The lift may not be necessary but it sure feels as if it is, I'm not about to try it at least not in your car.
I wonder what the difference in lap time a slight breath of the throttle makes VS remaining flat through turn 8. Turn in speed would be the same but the apex speed would probably be 5 mph higher which would make a big difference on the run up to 9. We need to get that traq mate set up so we have some integrated Data and Video. Enough of this speculation.
There is no doubt that remaining on the throttle will be faster and that's the whole point. Hopefully the heavier spring rate will eliminate the bottoming issue.
Last edited by justaguy; 03-04-2014 at 12:32 AM. Reason: missing words
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What was this supposed to accomplish any ways? Was it thought to be an improvement?
Pined axle has 2 bolts the stock axle trailing arm only has one.
Pined axle has 2 bolts the stock axle trailing arm only has one.