Oil pan removal??
#1
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Thread Starter
Oil pan removal??
I am in the process of removing the oil pan, I've remover the starter but I can't seem to get 4 of the fasteners off that are close the cross member. There is not enough space for the bolts to come out. Do you have to remove the cross member too??
Any ideas??
Any ideas??
#4
Rennlist Member
The cross member needs to be removed to drop the oil pan, also there should be about an inch of space between pan and cross member if mounts are good. Replace them if old or orginal along w/the pan gasket. I would suggest looking at the newer silicone version, stud kit makes that job easer too.
Dave K
Dave K
#5
Archive Gatekeeper
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Even if you could get the 4 bolts above the crossmember out, you wouldn't be able to get the pan out of there anyway as it would hang up on the oil pickup tube. Pan would probably need to drop about 3 inches at the front to clear the pickup.
Crossmember's coming out!
Crossmember's coming out!
#6
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Look for one of the good write-ups on motor mount replacement. That procedure includes all the steps you'll need to follow, except the ones you've already done (drop the starter, remove the oil pan bolts). There are a couple "while you are in there" tasks to consider, including new steering rack mounting bushings. The original bushings are rubber, and thirty-plus years of heat and oil exposure have rotted them. Roger has Delrin replacements that are much less susceptible to the elements. Look at the rack boots, lower ball joints, tie rods and ends. All that stuff is due especially if you have over 100k on the car. You'll be getting a good alignment when you are done, and those parts will all be dangling in your way as you wrestle the cross member and the lower control arms back in after the new sump gasket is installed.
Oh.... dash over to the Salvation Army store now and get a few sets of throwaway clothes to work in. Don't want to foul mama's washing machine with all the crud you'll accrue as you work.
Oh.... dash over to the Salvation Army store now and get a few sets of throwaway clothes to work in. Don't want to foul mama's washing machine with all the crud you'll accrue as you work.
#7
Under the Lift
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A few very adventurous shortcut takers have replaced the pan gasket with the crossmember left in place, if that is you only interest. I don't even think they lifted the motor up with an engine hoist to get more clearance, although that would help. Note they didn't remove the pan. They just removed all the pan bolts, dropped it down, SOMEHOW cleaned the mating surfaces of old gasket and installed a new gasket. To do that they actually CUT the new gasket to get it around the oil pick up, and reglued the ends! Lord knows how long that held. I'm definitely not recommending this, but just saying it has been done. I'm a reformed shortcut taker.
Also, just for completeness sake, I believe you can get to those obstructed pan bolts with a flexhead 10mm Gearwrench.
Also, just for completeness sake, I believe you can get to those obstructed pan bolts with a flexhead 10mm Gearwrench.
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#8
#9
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#10
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Thread Starter
Thank you all for your feedback...so with that solved ...whats better (easier)? Holding the engine in place from above or from below...
And yes...ive been griped by the WYAIT over and over...and over.
And yes...ive been griped by the WYAIT over and over...and over.
#11
Archive Gatekeeper
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Above, with either an engine hoist bar or the equivalent made out of 4x4.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...e-support.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...e-support.html
#12
Administrator - "Tyson"
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I'm starting to think I should maintain my 928's like my fathers Ferrari 355.
Every five years pull the motor. Replace all gaskets, clutch master etc....
In the long run I think this will be easier.
Every five years pull the motor. Replace all gaskets, clutch master etc....
In the long run I think this will be easier.
#14
real men pull the engine to replace the pan gasket.... and build a stroker while you are in there....
#15
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