Stippled paint / stoneguard specification questions
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 238
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From: Perth, Western Australia
Stippled paint / stoneguard specification questions
Fellow 928 worshippers.
I'm preparing to have my 84S Euro AT repainted. A prospective body shop have quizzed me about the stoneguard / stippled paint finish each side or the car along both door sills. A previous PO who did some shoddy bodywork and paint, has painted over what ever was there with Silver paint (the car is actually zinc metallic), and has really made a mess of everything. So I have a few questions to anyone as to the original finish my car would have had straight out of the factory (I am trying to get everything back to original).
a) What is this finish? - is it a decal under the paint to create the finish, or is it actually in the application of the paint, or a special type of paint.
b) How far up from the body seam/drip lines on the lowest part of the body is it supposed to go? - my best guess from whats there is it goes to about 2inches up past the bottom of the doors.
Any help from the purests would be really appreciated. I've tried searching for similar topics, but have come up empty.
Buck.
I'm preparing to have my 84S Euro AT repainted. A prospective body shop have quizzed me about the stoneguard / stippled paint finish each side or the car along both door sills. A previous PO who did some shoddy bodywork and paint, has painted over what ever was there with Silver paint (the car is actually zinc metallic), and has really made a mess of everything. So I have a few questions to anyone as to the original finish my car would have had straight out of the factory (I am trying to get everything back to original).
a) What is this finish? - is it a decal under the paint to create the finish, or is it actually in the application of the paint, or a special type of paint.
b) How far up from the body seam/drip lines on the lowest part of the body is it supposed to go? - my best guess from whats there is it goes to about 2inches up past the bottom of the doors.
Any help from the purests would be really appreciated. I've tried searching for similar topics, but have come up empty.
Buck.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
Wondering as well if those who have repainted their cars stripped it off or left it on, etc.
It looks to me as though they masked a line across and shot the undercoating oem stone guard up to further protect the sills. Or has anyone replicated the look using Wurth SKS stone guard? How was it applied to get the same texture? Schutz gun? Also, do all the 928 models have the strip or just ob/sobs?
It looks to me as though they masked a line across and shot the undercoating oem stone guard up to further protect the sills. Or has anyone replicated the look using Wurth SKS stone guard? How was it applied to get the same texture? Schutz gun? Also, do all the 928 models have the strip or just ob/sobs?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,029
Likes: 10
From: Columbus, Mississippi
PET has it as a decal....however you can buy spray on rock guard from 3m that does a great job. Just tape off and spray. Tis is to be painted OVER....not applied after paint.
http://3mcollision.com/3m-rocker-pan...ing-08889.html
http://3mcollision.com/3m-rocker-pan...ing-08889.html
Last edited by Dean_Fuller; Feb 2, 2014 at 12:04 PM.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,670
Likes: 76
From: Central Virginia
PET has it as a decal....however you can buy spray on rock guard from 3m that does a great job. Just tape off and spray.
http://3mcollision.com/3m-rocker-pan...ing-08889.html
http://3mcollision.com/3m-rocker-pan...ing-08889.html
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Michael S. Palmer
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31,301
Likes: 4,271
From: Philly PA
if you do go the 3M spray on stone guard ,
get the medium texture,
Clean the surface as directed then,
use 2 or 3 coats,
if done correctly you will use about 1 and 1/3 cans for the whole job
your auto body supply has it.
NOTE I suggest to use the 3M spray as its the best.
get the medium texture,
Clean the surface as directed then,
use 2 or 3 coats,
if done correctly you will use about 1 and 1/3 cans for the whole job
your auto body supply has it.
NOTE I suggest to use the 3M spray as its the best.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,288
Likes: 97
From: NW Arkansas
The flying stone protection and underbody coating has part numbers 999.901.011.40 for gray color and 999.901.012.40 for white (from the WSM supplement titled "Repairing Damaged Paint Finish on Cars") I believe this was originally a water-based Glasurit product called "Glassohyd 1109 (from PET Section "004:Lacquers" page 1) now just called "Glasurit 1109 rock fall protection". It is still listed on their German website. As best I can tell from the Glassurit product sheet it is used full strength for under-body protection and thinned with water to 20 seconds through a DIN 4 viscosity cup for stone guard use. It seems to be still available through Porsche for between $30 and $40/liter. Once applied and dry it can be painted over.
Hope this helps.
Mike
Hope this helps.
Mike
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster CA
I would recommend not using the transtar product. I just did this job and applied the transtar chip guard 1 month after spraying clearcoat and I still got some lifting of the clear. Also, the texture wasn't very accurate.