Crumpler

I'm all in replacing my original blue hose, clutch master, and flex line after reading the other clutch threads recently. This is on the heels of a recent slave replacement.
I did not want to hijack anyone else's thread, so I put some observations and questions here. All advice is appreciated.

I was opposed to cutting a hole just based on principal -- but a couple hours in, and I might reconsider if I ever have to do it again.
That second 13MM on the booster that is tucked under the fender got me a little hot.

I decided to take it slow and just move the booster out of the way. I had enough floaters in the reservoir from reverse bleeding the clutch slave, that I wanted to get the reservoir off and clean anyway.

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With the booster off, is there any general maintenance or rebuild to be done to it?
Also, any "while you are in there recommendations"?
Thanks.

FLYVMO

Booster to firewall seal might be a good idea to replace. Mine was totally deformed by moisture. Also brake master cylinder to booster seal, and the 2 seals in the master cylinder where the brake reservoir sits.

Cheers!
Carl

kawi825

I second the rubber grommets under the reservoir. I didn't do mine, so stupid. They're wet all the time so I'll be back in there this year after a new paint job...

Rob Edwards

Third.

gcthree

Really needed to make a plate for the booster to retain the shaft pushing on the master cylinder. Without it holding the shaft out as far as possible, getting the booster out is nearly impossible...or at least that's what I discovered.

I made a plate (as described in the WSM) from sheet steel, and clamped a small set of Vice Grips on the shaft. The recommended clamp on the shaft did not work for me as it kept slipping off.

gcthree

Happy to lend you the plate I made, but it's really nothing special.

Bob

Dadddio

A light switch cover works great.
Enlarge the two small holes. Perfect fit.

Mrmerlin

before you install the MC ,
replace the two rubber grommets and use Dow Corning 111 on the grommets before you install them,
this will reduce the amount of corrosion that will occur on an old MC and should prevent any from forming on a new MC
NOTE when the car gets wet the reservoir gets wet,
the water runs down the res to the grommets and will corrode the inlet bores.

To clean the reservoir spray with red can of brake cleaner shake and drain.
add some simple green and hot water shake and drain a few times.
Final rinse with about 2 oz of isopropyl alcohol shake and drain then get a hair drier and blow warm air into the tank till the alcohol smell is gone then it should look like new.

NOTE the MC has to seal to the booster face if you damage the seating area then a leak will occur and degraded brake performance will result.

Good luck with your project

Crumpler

Sorry meant to say master cylinder.

Thanks for the feedback everybody.
I am having an issue getting the booster out.
I feel like I have been able to hold the shaft all the way out of the booster with a small set of vice grips.
I just can't get enough clearance, I'm assuming I can remove the square intermediate with the 17 mm hex nut without harm done.

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gcthree

As I recall, you need to get the shaft further out than what your photo is indicating. Put the shaft back on the pedal and through the alloy block, and have an assistant press on the pedal to fully extend the shaft. Or, as I did being that there was no assitant around, I put a broomstick on the fully depressed pedal and against the seatback, and then clamped the extended shaft.

Removing the aluminum block is okay. I counted the number of turns when I removed it (and wrote it down!) so that when I replaced it, I could reset it back to where it was for a base line.

Mrmerlin

remove the aluminum standoff by holdiing the pushrod and then using a wrench on the aluminum portion it should unscrew.

loosen it first then

NOTE to get the pushrod pushed find a small piece of fuel line and push it over the piston in the engine bay side.
then fit a double layer of cardboard to the MC mating surface so you dont mar the area it has to seal to the MC surface or you will have a vacuum leak.

Put the clevis pin back in and attach 2 nuts to the booster to hold it ,
then with a helper,
push the brake pedal to the floor,

then clamp the vice grips to the piston, NOTE make sure the cardboard protects the surface,

then remove the clevis pin,
then remove the loosened aluminum fitting,
then remove the 2 nuts ,
then remove the booster

Refit the new Booster by pushing the piston out ,
and with the protective cover and the short fuel line on the rod,
fit the vice grips ,
make sure the surface is protected

Crumpler

Got it.
Thanks again Stan and gcthree, awesome tech support for the rookie.


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granprixweiss928

I got my clutch master out last night not removing the booster, but I did loosen it from the firewall and move it forward about a 1/2. it helped. that photo above really shows how crammed in the corner it is!

once mine started to move it got caught on the firewall insulation. I made a hook on a long metal rod and pulled it out of the way ( part of it tore) and with my wife pushing it through from the footwelll I was able to wrestle it out of there.

Crumpler

Glad you were able to get it out without pulling the booster.
Cheese and Rice, this has not been a real gratifying job thus far, I'm telling myself that it will prevent me from getting stranded somewhere down the road when the system would have failed...

Crumpler

BTW, I talked to Roger today...he told me if I had an automatic I wouldn't have to do this.