Lizard928

I dislike this job enough that when I converted my car to a manual, I used a floor mounted clutch pedal and converted the system to braided stainless teflon hoses with AN fittings.

Mrmerlin

Colin do you have any pictures of this installation

Crumpler

Replaced the flexible portion of the clutch line today while waiting for other parts.
This was the original stock line stamped 1985, and like the fuel lines I replaced, it looked to be in reasonable shape from a distance -- then up close and bent you can appreciate the fatigue and small cracks.


The new flex line was a special made by Greg Brown.


Attachment 802524

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granprixweiss928

I got mine all back together today as well. used rope thru the hole in firewall and thru hole in master with a knot on the end, pulling it into place and then a long bolt to hold it there. worked very well and only took about 10 min to get back in. bled the system first before putting it in. working good now.

Dadddio

bump

Crumpler

I have been reading old posts on the install of a new MC, prior to mine going in.
I was hoping for more clarity on the recommended modification of the new MC prior to install. There's a chance I'm overthinking the issue and getting confused. I have not taken either MC apart yet.

Attachment 802918

I had read from Jim Corenman that some new MC's have been suspect for being mis-machined.

Am I right in assuming that the mods that Stan suggest are to avoid this issue? Or is that to avoid over compression of springs and damage to seals?

Also, is the best move to put the old piston and spring in the new MC, while putting the new seal on the old piston.....or use the new piston and spring in the new MC and cut them down (distal piston and 2 winds of spring) if needed as described in newer threads.

The goal being to monitor bore depth. You don't want rear seal to go past the fill port...
I think of rear seal as "A" on piston diagram. Is this correct? If so, then my question becomes if I shorten piston and/or spring then it will advance further toward fill port in stead of less.
Thanks for the help.

Attachment 802919

Mrmerlin

read this one\\

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...r+modification

granprixweiss928

my new master had the rod at the end, the old one did not.




the bore length on the old vs new, the new was about 5 mm shorter.

I measured the new master piston at 80mm, I filled it down to 75mm using a file. the material is not hardened. I also shortened the spring.

the link that MMerlin posted was also very helpful.

Crumpler

Stan, thanks again for the thread link.
I think I get it now!

I don't have pictures because I'm at work, but I pulled both new and old CMC out and measured.

Very Interesting:
The push rod and body were identical.
My old unit had the newer style piston with the stem, along with same spring as the new unit... But the bore depth on the new unit was 5 mm shorter than the older unit. Resulting in a 5 mm longer action in the old unit.


Old piston 79.96 mm
New piston 80.06 mm

Old spring (not compressed) 90.78 mm
New spring(not compressed) 91.56 mm

Bore depth old 117.09 mm
Bore depth new 112.60 mm

Push distance, action old 32.86 mm
Push distance, action new 28.23 mm

I'm glad I dealt with this now,
I plan to make the mods tonight.
Thanks again.

Crumpler

Shaved 4.5 MM off new piston and cross cut small indentation on distal piston face. Removed two curves on new spring. Rear seal does not go past fill port.
New action is 32.87 MM and smooth, old action was 32.86 MM.

Attachment 803557

Attachment 803558

Attachment 803559

Crumpler

I'm putting my brake booster back in.

I have a replacement paper gasket for booster to firewall.

The original (I assume) looked like it was mounted dry.

Is that correct? and does anybody feel there would be an advantage to use a sealant? I have just about everything on site from Drei-Bond to Ultra Black to old time Indian Head.
Thanks.

granprixweiss928

when I loosened and pulled my booster forward ( but not removed it) I could see the gasket in there and it was dry also. no sealant.

Crumpler

Many Thanks, GranPrix!

Someday, when time permits, I'd like to hear about this Delorean you had. What was she like? I've heard a lot of stories, but never talked to an owner.

Crumpler

Ok, job complete.
Replaced grommets on reservoir, gasket firewall to booster, gasket booster to master cylinder, and check valve on booster as well.
Perhaps my all time least favorite job -- significant time, tight space, and no HP gain afterwards.

Ended up using reverse bleed method first on the clutch with my power bleeder, but only got partial action afterwards.
Then used power bleeder at reservoir to bleed slave.
Repeated twice, while occasionally stepping on pedal. Normal action after that, but it seems no two clutch bleeds are alike for me...

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syoo8

Looks great Dave!

Make sure you clean out the Motive Power Bleeder after you're done with it (denatured alcohol.)