I think I've found the source of my tramlining
#1
I think I've found the source of my tramlining
Looks like I have play in the steering universal joint between the rack and lower steering shaft. There's not much about this in the shop manual, and my search of the forum didn't turn up much either. Anything I should watch out for when changing this? The shop manual mentions special tool 9208 (no idea what this is) to create a space, and then there's apparently a short and a long version of the universal joint. Sounds like the short version is the easier one to replace and doesn't require dropping the rack. Any advice greatly appreciated...Thanks!
#2
Are you sure it's the U-joint and not the rubber coupler? Upper or lower?
The u-joints can be a pain as they'll seize to the shafts. Not much to it, really. You need to loosen remove the two bolts and pry it off the two shafts. You'll need to lower the steering rack to get enough free play to get the U-joint off...or at least I think so.
The u-joints can be a pain as they'll seize to the shafts. Not much to it, really. You need to loosen remove the two bolts and pry it off the two shafts. You'll need to lower the steering rack to get enough free play to get the U-joint off...or at least I think so.
#4
How much play do you have at the steering wheel ? In my experience tramlining is usually associated with misalignment of the front end, or unsuitable offset front wheels. 86.5+ cars fitted with front offsets <55mm seem prone to it, whereas earlier front ends dont seem to suffer so much.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
#6
I installed delrin rack bushings and the tramlining got worse. I have an inch or so of play at the steering wheel. As far as alignment, my tires are wearing perfectly even, although I suppose there could be alignment issues and still have tires wear properly.
#7
I've installed new lower U joints on 4 of these cars while refreshing racks or motormounts.
2 looked like they had no play.
They were actually seized in one plane of movement. The power steering could overcome it, but holding them in your hand, you couldn't pivot them in one direction.
Other two were completely worn out and sloppy.
IMO, a fairly easy thing to replace but rack needs to come out.
Would be best to source a new rubber washer thing that is placed in between U joint and rack; old one gets brittle.
I generally use a screwdriver to pry open the old one at the seams a bit to aid removal.
2 looked like they had no play.
They were actually seized in one plane of movement. The power steering could overcome it, but holding them in your hand, you couldn't pivot them in one direction.
Other two were completely worn out and sloppy.
IMO, a fairly easy thing to replace but rack needs to come out.
Would be best to source a new rubber washer thing that is placed in between U joint and rack; old one gets brittle.
I generally use a screwdriver to pry open the old one at the seams a bit to aid removal.
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#10
#11
Well, I'm taking about the shaft "seal", a black grommet that is placed over the stub shaft of the rack, before the U joint is put on.
If you pry under the U joint it usually breaks up, as its one of those rubber bits that hardens over the years.
I've not replaced one, but should have. Not sure if it is available by itself.
forgive the distorted picture...
If you pry under the U joint it usually breaks up, as its one of those rubber bits that hardens over the years.
I've not replaced one, but should have. Not sure if it is available by itself.
forgive the distorted picture...
#12
There is a rubber disc bolted into the shaft , about 80mm dia, I think to isolate the top end a bit from vibration or steering feedback. These can break up . I think there has been discussion here about replacements from other makes..I suggest you find this disc and check its condition and if its producing any of the play you see. Wouldnt be fun to replace the UJ and then find things not much improved. I have some visible play in my rubber, but there is little slack at the wheel - its passed two inspections so far, with nobody remarking on the steering.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
#13
I put a wrench across a pair of bolts on the top of the housing and levered against that. And a sheet-metal screw into the slot on the U-joint to crack it open and keep it open.
#14
Sheet metal screw, that's a trick I'll remember. I'll also look at the condition of the rubber disk. Does the upper u-joint wear as well, or is most of the wear usually in the lower one? It looks like the upper u-joint is part of the upper shaft, so the whole shaft would need to be sourced, a used one I suppose, unless someone is able to refurbish the joint.