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Something popped when jump starting

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Old 12-24-2021, 02:51 AM
  #16  
Speedtoys
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Originally Posted by uncre8tv
I feel like this should be covered on the board somewhere, but I don't see it with the search tool.

My battery got so low in the cold (and with the requisite parasitic drain) that my tender wouldn't see it as a battery when I finally got around to putting it on.
So, I know I'll need a new battery before driving season starts again, but just for garage driving I was trying to get the car started and run it long enough to get enough charge in the battery for the tender to at least try to charge it up.

To this end I tried jumping it from my 4cyl wrangler. Ran jumper cables from battery to battery directly. After ~10min connected to the running wrangler the 928 would start to turn over but not quite get there. BUT the tender did see it and try to charge it. So I put the tender back on and called it ok.

But, then I had my WK Jeep ('06 Grand for non Jeep people) in the garage next and I saw that the tender had given up on the 928 battery again after 10min or so. So I figured what the heck, let's try the bigger motor. Hooked up the WK to the 928, battery to battery except the WK end ground to hood latch instead of battery due to reach issues (the extra 10" between the posts was just enough that I didn't want to stretch the cables.)

After a minute or two with the WK running I went to start the 928 and something went "pop" (ok, maybe just "click") and now the 928 has no dash, interior, or other lights at all. No door buzzer. Dead dead car. It's like a main line popped. But I'm not sure which fuse/relay would cause the whole car to go dark.

Ideas of what to check first?
you know that motor size has nothing to do with jump starting..right?


Old 12-24-2021, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Billu
The reason not to have the running car running when you actually try to start is more to protect the running vehicle’s alternator
From what?
Old 12-24-2021, 06:52 PM
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From the massive draw on the alternator and regulator.
OK to hook up the cable and run then run for a while to put some charge into the dead battery, but the starter draw can burn out a solid state regulator.
Shut off and let the battery provide the amps.
Old 12-24-2021, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Billu
From the massive draw on the alternator and regulator.
OK to hook up the cable and run then run for a while to put some charge into the dead battery, but the starter draw can burn out a solid state regulator.
Shut off and let the battery provide the amps.
You overestimate what a set of jumper cables can accomplish...and what simply connecting a good battery to a bad one can accomplish.

I don't think I have ever read "turn off what makes energy" in jump starting a car.
Old 12-25-2021, 11:42 AM
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The good battery is what makes the energy. The alternator isn’t designed to delivery cranking amperage.
Old 12-26-2021, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Billu
The good battery is what makes the energy. The alternator isn’t designed to delivery cranking amperage.
It's not, I never said it was, but an extra 30-50 amps cant hurt...current from a good to bad battery isnt that much.
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