While Roger is waiting for Ken to send his revised instructions I'm trying to keep moving along.

I figured out the new longer bolts and locking nuts for the roller and arm.

I know where the little black metal strip goes on the water pump, but none of the bolts fit through the holes. I'm going to assume I re-use old hardware.

Its really bolts A - E that have me puzzled.

Anyone else out there have any experience with this new bracket? And maybe know what these bolts are for?

 

Edit, sorry A is for the long bolt that holds the timing belt cover.

Just looking for help on B, C, D & E

 

looks as if you've used the bolts for the air pump bracket on the roller and lever

 

The new version does not use threads for those two bolts, they use locking nuts on the back. I just took it all off to double check and the bolts as per your pic do not go through the metal so a nut can get on.

Although my hardware kit does have those bolts?

Anyway its back on and I'm going to move forward with the tensioner and belt.

It looks like I have extra hardware. Also I have the kit with no air pump.

 

That is different than previous version s as there no lock nuts and yes it does seem theres extra hardware.

You want to double check with who you sourced the parts from or Ken himself.

The instructions listed on Kens site are not updated to include the black version......http://www.liftbars.com/

 

A - spacer for the timing belt cover, non-airpump
B - bolt which came with the lever, now unused
C - water pump plug (78-86)
D - water pump plug (87-95)
E - bolt which came with the pulley, now unused

 

Ken--

Can you enlighten us on the improvements on the new black version vs. the gold?


And will there be other colors available?

 

Adam, two things that are important, since you are apparently working without instructions:

1. The tensioner bracket is attached to the block with three cap screws, two hex-head and one flat head. It is essential that the flat-head screw be centered, which means it must be tightened first. (The holes are oversized, this won't happen automatically). If you are not sure then loosen the two hex-heads a bit, torque the flat-head to spec, and then torque the two hex-heads.

2. Tensioners are critical assemblies, and all of the fasteners must be torqued to spec. You need to get torque specs from Ken for all of the fasteners, and whether they get torqued dry, oiled, with loctite (and which kind), or anti-seize (and which kind). The proper torque depends on the fastener and the application, for critical parts you need specs from the designer.

Cheers, Jim

 

Here is the assemblage of manuals to date. (I am still working on the PKT-B manual and web site update.)

PKsnr.pdf - v1.6
PKT_ground.pdf
PKT-B_bolts.jpg

Jim's #1 tip above is very good, as it is unclear in the old manual.
Fully tighten and torque the flat head bolt first, while the other three bolts are loose.
Then tighten and torque the other three bolts.

 

Different manufacturing steps and through bolts for higher strength, not to mention, it's BLACK.
(The alternate name was Racing edition.)


A blue-ish one is possible.
(Clear over silver.)

 

She's in. Hand cranking tomorrow.

 

Looks good!

If you haven't already, don't forget to install the 8mm water pump plug in that early pump (and pull the pin).

Don't laugh, folks do this often.



Note also, the early pump does not use the 'dog-bone'.
Free key-fob! (Purchase req.)

 

I was hoping the black edition will have a warning system.

 

Why, the factory one works fine

 

Can someone please post a list of all additional items that are needed with the PKtensioner.