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Radiator End Tank Replacement

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Old 01-03-2014, 06:07 PM
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awilli6
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Default Radiator End Tank Replacement

http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...8/MyTip862.htm

The site above has info on replacing the radiator side tank. At the the, it says to check the oil & transmission fluid when finished. Do I lose oil & transmission fluid when changing the tank? Are there write-ups with pictures that show how to remove the radiator?

Parts should be here Monday. I want to take the radiator out this weekend.
Old 01-03-2014, 06:32 PM
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Leon Speed
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You will lose some transmission fluid if you have an automatic. You will loose some motor oil if you have an integrated oil cooler. Some (most?) models have them and some don't - not sure which. Which model do you have?

Standing in front of the engine bay, look at the left top of the side tank to find the transmission cooling hoses (front and back), look right top and bottom to find the motor oil cooling hoses (back).

You will need some particular open wrenches to remove the lines.
Old 01-03-2014, 09:43 PM
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awilli6
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I see the hoses. I have an 87S4. It appears those are just large nuts. Any idea of the sizes? While standing in front looking at the right side, the top (oil?) Jose is oily. I will replace that also.
Old 01-03-2014, 10:15 PM
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WallyP

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Be CERTAIN to counterhold the fitting. If that doesn't mean anything to you, this means that you must hold the hex closest to the radiator still while you loosen the outer hex. If you let the inner hex turn, it will destroy the cooler inside the tank.
Old 01-03-2014, 10:32 PM
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928 at last
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AND....
Read the treads on the DIY procedure. You need to anneal the tabs or risk breakage.
Usually faster and less aggravation to have a local shop familiar with plastic end tanks do it for you (and they can clean and rod what they can while they're at it).
Cost me about $70 Cdn to have it done locally and I supplied the parts.
Old 01-04-2014, 03:25 AM
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Hilton
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Originally Posted by 928 at last
AND....
Read the treads on the DIY procedure. You need to anneal the tabs or risk breakage.
Only if you're undoing each tab individually - see an awesome thread by JHowells on doing it without breaking tabs.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...king-tabs.html
Old 01-04-2014, 08:03 AM
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Leon Speed
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IIRC the largest wrench you need is a 32 mm, and you will need a 27 mm. Make sure the are slim wrenches, as there is little space to get them on next together. As Wally says counter hold the inner (closest to the radiator) hex and do not let it turn. Here is a thread with some more tips https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-radiator.html

As to replacing the transmission oil lines, there are some challenges. The hose to the bottom of the radiator is clamped to a hard line, which is a PITB to remove. Here it is wise to leave the hard line installed and use a new hose and screw clamp. The hose between the front and the rear of the radiator is keyed, make sure to install it/ a replacement in the same way. Here are some tips https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-radiator.html
Old 01-04-2014, 10:36 AM
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awilli6
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Thanks guys. I've got a lot of planning to do before I start.
Old 01-04-2014, 02:28 PM
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Randy V
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You will also need new o-rings for the coolers.

I bought an o-ring kit from Harbor Freight for less than $10.

http://www.harborfreight.com/382-pie...ent-67554.html
Old 01-06-2014, 11:07 AM
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z driver 88t
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A while back 928 INTL was also selling rebuilt radiators with new seals. Might be worth checking with them as well unless you want to tackle this one yourself.
Old 01-06-2014, 06:49 PM
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Tom in Austin
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My experience ... the gasket that came with my end tanks was very thin, maybe 1/8" and I couldn't get it to seal up all the way around. Radiator shop went in with a much thicker sealing material when they re-did the job.



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