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Growling sound under console, what could it be?

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Old 04-03-2014, 01:30 AM
  #16  
docmirror
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That thar is gonna take four tubes of JB Weld. Yuh-hunh.
Old 04-03-2014, 09:37 AM
  #17  
Mrmerlin
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this looks pretty bad,
I would be releasing the clamp and checking crank end play first,
to be showing this much of the splines means the plate was really pushed forward.

Also i would consider replacing all of the bolts that hold the pinch clamp front and rear,
the flex plate to flywheel,
and hub to the plate ,
given the corrosion all of the bolts are suspect.

NOTE make sure to replace the rear pinch bolt I will bet its loose
Old 04-03-2014, 11:17 AM
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I have seen that on another local car. It was a case of bad bearings allowing the shaft lateral play.

Car is just fine after a new flex plate and TT bearings. Still running the streets several years later.

I think it looks worse than it is. Although, dropping the TT in the driveway is one of those not so fun jobs.
Old 04-03-2014, 04:19 PM
  #19  
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The flex plate was in such a bind forward I had to unbolt it to relieve pressure so the clamp would slide rearward, a 1/3 section of the flex plate fell out, but there is not eneough clearance between the front end of the splined shaft and the flywheel to remove the rest of it. Once the force was removed from the flywheel I did a simple check of flywheel play with a small prybar, literally maybe a frogs hair of movement. but here is the best part, the TT splined shaft had very sloppy lateral movement, and the front TT bearing is only 17 inches from the front of the TT.
Needless to say, the TT is coming out for a rebuild. I will to use the information here to guide me though this, so not too worried about it.

Last edited by OTR18WHEELER; 04-04-2014 at 02:27 AM. Reason: changed to to too
Old 04-03-2014, 10:23 PM
  #20  
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[URL="[ame]http://i1321.photobucket.com/albums/u550/otr18wheeler/flex%20plate/100_2458_zps3ccd6ddc.mp4]"][URL=http://i1321.photobucket.com/albums/u550/otr18wheeler/flex%20plate/100_2458_zps3ccd6ddc.mp4][IMG]http://i1321.photobucket.com/albums/u550/otr18wheeler/flex%20plate/th_100_2458_zps3ccd6ddc.jpg[/IM[/ame]
[IMG][/IMG]
Old 04-03-2014, 10:43 PM
  #21  
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Just some encouragement for you. I'm finishing TT rebuild right now on my wife's '85 AT. Follow the advice on here and it isn't that bad, except for the crawling around on the ground part.
I used Bill Ball's procedure (there are a few threads on RL, actually) to do it without dropping the trans. It worked fine, my biggest problem was frozen bolts (and freezing temps that keep me out of the garage).
Good luck!
Old 04-03-2014, 11:11 PM
  #22  
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thanks otisp, I would be lost here if not for all of the 928 community, especially Bill Ball and his instructional input.
At least it has warmed up here, and a vinyl tarp on the garage floor makes it easier to scoot around underneath.
Old 04-03-2014, 11:21 PM
  #23  
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I couldn't resist the temptation
http://s1321.photobucket.com/user/ot...bbccc.mp4.html
Old 04-04-2014, 11:16 AM
  #24  
jeff spahn
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Get a constantine clamp since you are taking the TT out. Spend $1500 more and get a super nice brand new shaft with super bearings and a shiny pre assembled TT. Makes the job seem that much nicer.
Old 04-04-2014, 11:27 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by OTR18WHEELER
^^^^^^I can't imagine how loud that was in person^^^^^
Old 04-04-2014, 01:05 PM
  #26  
Big Dave
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Originally Posted by KenRudd
^^^^^^I can't imagine how loud that was in person^^^^^
Love the blue flames!
Old 04-04-2014, 01:06 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by otisp
I used Bill Ball's procedure (there are a few threads on RL, actually) to do it without dropping the trans. It worked fine, my biggest problem was frozen bolts (and freezing temps that keep me out of the garage).
Good luck!
Got a link?
Old 04-05-2014, 12:39 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Big Dave
Got a link?
Here's the write-up by Bill Ball that I followed for removing the tube. You do need a about a 50 ft extension for your 3/4 ratchet, but other than that not too bad.

http://www.billsworkshop.com/P928S4/seal/seal.htm

You can get the bearings easily at a bearing shop (pretty cheap), then get the old ones pressed out of the holders and the new ones pressed in (unless you have a press). Cost me 10 bucks. Just don't forget the inserts from the old bearings.

I got my bearings and new inserts from Jager http://www.jageng.com/garage9/

I followed their procedure for drifting the bearings out of the tube, easy. I also found this - MrMerlin's suggestion is the same.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...some-more.html

Good luck! I did it alone, so it can't be that bad, I would recommend keeping some Bushmills or Jameson's on hand, though.
Old 04-05-2014, 01:23 AM
  #29  
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otisp^ that link only refers to the flex plate and flywheel for RMS, didn't see a cheat for not dropping the rear suspension. although this link is helpful.
Old 04-05-2014, 01:29 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jeff spahn
Get a constantine clamp since you are taking the TT out. Spend $1500 more and get a super nice brand new shaft with super bearings and a shiny pre assembled TT. Makes the job seem that much nicer.
Jeff, to be honest, I dont have 1.5K to drop on this repair. but If you would hire me for a temp at your burlap factory for say,...300K/Yr salary with a $10K sign on bonus I would be interested, (with a 5 day work week bonus of course)

Last edited by OTR18WHEELER; 04-05-2014 at 01:30 AM. Reason: change and hope


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