The rear hatch on my '83 is misaligned.(see pix). The side gap on the passenger's side is 7 mm, but on the driver's side it's about 12 mm. Is there any way to adjust the hinges or mounting bolts to correct this? Now I know why the back carpet is always damp! I hope the hatch isn't bent.

 

There are two plastic pieces which are popped out to access the bolts (6mm allen key iirc).
Though I do not know how well this will work for you.....

 

Seeing that paint condition I'd think hatch alignment would be the least of your concerns.

 

Maybe you're right, Randy V, Paint should be the FIRST thing on my list. After all, Paint makes it run better, right?? The car sat on a used car dealer's lot, out in the weather, uncovered, for at least 6 years that I know of. It's an '83 Euro 5 speed,(VIN # WPOZZZ92ZDS841138) which, I've been lead to believe, is a desirable car to have. And it runs. Some people view cars as a status statement, fashion item, or an object they need to boost their ego and self worth. But it's not, IT'S A PIECE OF MACHINERY. And it's THIRTY YEARS OLD. SO IS THE PAINT. Paint is NOT a safety OR performance issue, so screw the paint. As long as there's enough paint on it to keep it from rusting I DON'T CARE. I'd rather have a ratty looking car that runs like '40 Bears', than have a pretty "Hangar Queen" that looks good but doesn't run. But maybe that's just me. --- Lizard 928, Thanks for the tip, I'll try that when the weather warms up a little and it stops raining. On mine they look like TorX bolts but I'll have a shot at it. If it IS bent, I have a line on a car being parted about 6 hours away, so that option is on the table too.

 

I interpreted Randy's comment to mean that with a car that has seen so much weather, there may be other issues to be addressed first- besides the hatch and the paint. I'm sure you've checked out all of the electrical (CE panel) systems that could have been affected by incoming water.

 

do you park it nose uphill or nose downhill (or flat?), and sunroof or not?. I find that when I'm nose downhill the front carpets sometimes get wet in the rain, and when I'm nose uphill if something gets wet, it is the back. it may be your sun roof also...

 

I've had it since July 2011 and have been going thru in methodically since. Everything electrical works except: the rear wiper and rear cigarette lighter. The P.O. took out the radio so maybe he FUBARd the wiring going to the rear. The sun roof doesn't leak but is jammed. I've got new front shocks to go in it and the steering rack leaks a little, so I have a new one to go in when I do the shocks. This is NOT my first esoteric car, I kept 2 RX-3s and an RX-7 alive with NO help from the Mazda mechs. They generally don't know squat about rotary engines. I also saved a '73 R-17 Renault-Gordini from the junkyard and the only reason I got rid of it was it needed 100 octane gas!! I'm not afraid of working on it, but I do know my limitations.--(pull the front shocks-yes, remove the coil springs from the shocks-NO) Yes, it has ugly paint but it runs GREAT and 'only' cost me $3500 to buy and I drove it home with a mile-wide grin on my face. I drive it 2 or 3 days a week, depending on the weather. I'll do the timing belt and water pump this spring too. I've been lead to believe that M-28/11 engines won't eat themselves if the T.B. goes. (please correct me if I'm wrong on that) I've got a lot of VERY GOOD help from fellow R'listers and my membership is worth every penny. I just wish I could get a Haynes book for it. I have the WSM, PET and Dim/Spec table in my computer, it's just that Haynes writes their books for the 'shade-tree' mechanic and it would be nice to have one to cross-reference. The interior is in really good shape for 30 years old except for the dash and pod, and I'd like to keep it that way, so my concern over the hatch fit.

 

The hatch should be adjustable, and check the gaskets on the hinges (sometimes leak).

Nice daily driver! Looks like the paint problem might be the clear-coat, so a light sanding job to remove the clear-coat, with a DIY clear-coat application might improve the appearance quite a bit. Enjoy driving it!

 

The Haynes manual for the 928 is pretty much useless for detailed repairs.

I have the Haynes 78-81 version that combines the 928 with the 944. Come on, seriously?

 

I would loosen the bolts holding the hatch receiver so it can move, then, with the hatch clear at the rear, loosen the hinge plates through the access holes in the ceiling, and see if you can get the gaps even, and tighten the hinges. Then see if you can get the locking tongue to meet the receiver properly. Many have reported an angle of meeting problem here, and found that using washers or coins to pack the receiver (front or rear to tilt it) has worked for them. Note that the receiver should have a soft plastic liner inside it , but many are missing now as they are not available separately from the whole unit - if its missing the hatch commonly moves around and is noisy.
Keep the CIS cars going !!!
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

 

Is there a Haynes 928 78-81 repair manual? I have been looking for one but I thought it was never published.

 

There is, I bought one in 82 right after i bought my first 928 and its useless. It's still on my shelf as part of my 928 book collection.

 

Careful when you loosen anything here, the hatch is heavy.

 

I've had one that was bent and it never would align.

Very heavy, a helper or two is the ticket to a good attempt.

Great car, great save, you've got priorities right! Some guys have cars that require less work; others of us are working to rescue them. Its almost a different hobby.

 

Just had mine painted off the car to fix some rust. I'll email the body shop tech and see if he recalls how to realign. Will post as soon as I hear back.