hp18racer

I am in the process of removing the CIS and replacing it with Megasquirt 2, Fuel Only, no TPS on my 81 Euro S. I eventually plan to instal EDIS spark control (and maybe a TPS) but want to get the fuel working first. I am doing the project using very basic tools. The most expensive tools I used were a table saw with a cut off wheel and a drill press.

My sincere thanks to the others that have posted on their Megasquirt systems, they were extremely helpful in getting me started!

Some things I scratched my head over that I thought might be helpful to add to the posts I have seen here:

Bill of Materials!
Description Cost Each Qty Total Link
Megasquirt 2 $444 1 $444 http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ecu-p-171.html
12' Wire Harness $85 1 $85 http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/1...eady-p-43.html
Injector Pigtails $6.5 8 $52 http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/f...-ev1-p-48.html
IAT Sensor $22.25 1 $22.25 http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tail-p-62.html
Coolant Temp Sensor $17.75 1 $17.75 http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/g...tail-p-58.html
FPR $153 1 $153 http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/a...tor-p-530.html
Shipping $28.15

Injector Adaptors $9.65 8 $77.2 http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...etta/Fuel/93/6
(google search for 1993 Volkswagen Jetta Fuel Injector Sleeve, black part with hex key opening and green ring on the end)
M24x1.5 would actually thread in...
Fuel Injectors $82 ebay, Bosch #0280155825 (11ohm, 34lb/hr,50psi nominal idle pressure)

Feed Line Adaptor $13.97 1 $13.87 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-491983/overview/
Return Line Adaptor $7.97 1 $7.97 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-670530/overview/
Shipping $4.95

Idle Control Valve $30 Volvo 940 Compatible Bosch 2 Wire from Ebay Bosch 0280140516
Vacuum Hoses $31.43 1”, 5/8 and 3/8”
Car Parts Store Suff $50 Fuse Block, Relay, Spade Connectors, Wire Shields, etc

Tap, 3/8 NPT $15 Sensor
Tap 3/4-16 $14 AN Fittings
Drill Bit 47/64 $5 For Injector Bungs
Drill Bit 17/32 $8 Injector Holes
Drill Bit 11/16 $9 Drill for AN8
Drill Bit 37/64 $9 Drill for 3/8 npt
Drill Bit 5/16 $6 Injector Feed
Wideband Sensor $51 I already had the gauge, just needed the sensor...

AN-08 hose end 7$.97 2 $15.94 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1513/overview/
an-08 hose end, 90 deg $18.97 3 $56.91 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1533/overview/
AN-08 hose end, 180 deg $26 1 $26 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1563/overview/
an-06 hose end $6.97 1 $6.97 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1512/overview/
an-06 hose end 90 deg $15.97 1 $15.97 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fbm1532/overview/
ORB-08 Fittings $9.97 4 $39.88 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220165b/overview/
AN8 to ORB10 $15.97 1 $15.97 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-15610/overview/
Orb-06 Fittings $7.97 1 $7.97 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220166b/overview/
ORB10 Plug $5.75 1 $5.75 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ky...4-10/overview/
Fuel Rails $29.95 2 $59.9 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-534-207
an-06 hose $39.97 1 $39.97 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcv0810/overview/
an-08 hose $37.97 1 $37.97 www.summitracing.com/parts/aer-fcv0610/overview/
Total $1545.77

If there are better adapter fittings from the hard lines to the AN, please post them! The ones in my bill of materials are working for me.

I made the fuel rail tie downs from 1/8"x1" aluminum strap. I formed the bends around a 1/2" diameter solid steel rod to keep the bend radius big enough to not crack them. Three brackets for each rail.

I made the rails just barely long enough for the AN fittings to clear the end injector passages. Make sure you make yours long enough to clear the air box mounts.

I was able to drill the holes in the rails on my drill press. The big diameter hole for the injector I drilled using the travel limit of the press to make them identical. I smoothed the holes with 400 grit sandpaper wrapped around a dowel again using the drill press.

The push-lock hose was troublesome for me. Cold I just couldn't get it to go together. If I heated the hose in boiling water about half the time I could push the ends together. If I heated the hose with a propane torch until it just started to smoke but didn't hold it still in the flame long enough to discolor it I was able to push the hose together. I ruined a fair amount of hose getting it to go together. Some I got too hot, some I just couldn't get to go all the way on. I ordered twice as much as 'required' and used it all. I discovered later that if you heat it with a harbor freight heat gun it gets just the right temperature and goes together REALLY nicely..

I took the original injector bungs and drilled the hex keyed end out with a 47/64 drill bit. I used some silicone hose around a bolt stuck into the VW injector adapters to hold them in a drill press and filed off all the thread. I then glued the injector adapters in the injector bungs with fuel reistant sealant. They are held firmly in place by the injectors when the fuel rail is bolted down.

I am getting my engine speed signal from the tach signal wire that comes out of the spark control box. This wire is green but should not be confused with the "Green Wire"

I have gotten the car to start, idle and rev the engine using the default maps. Next step is to install wide band and see if I can make it driveable!

IcemanG17

you should seriously consider the "spark" option.....since the older 928's use old school distributors...think "I got 36' of lead" old school.... Having the ability to run much higher (or lower) timing across the powerband gives HUGE gains.... For example an S4 runs as much as 44' under part throttle scenarios in midrange....its also the reason the Euro S LH has a much stronger midrange than the normal Euro S...263ftlbs vs 295ftls as quoted by the factory...because it probably runs more timing in midrange than a convential distributors would allow....

My SDS stand alone uses a Crane ignition and allows infinite adjustment....I just haven't taken the time on the dyno to find those last few ponies

hp18racer

Fuel Rail Tie Downs

Ad0911

Aweome, but also fearsome or the most of us. What are the gains? Hp, torque, emmisions, mpg?

hp18racer

My goals for now are better reliability and serviceability. My CIS system was working very poorly and looked potentially very expensive to repair. I expect to do better on fuel economy.

As IcemanG17 indicates, gains in HP and Torque will likely be very small until I go with spark control as well.

Lizard928

You technically don't need a TPS for the car at all, but if you have one it can make tuning easier.
It is only used for tuning fuel, not spark at all.

Additionally, change the ign system to coil packs, and CNP at the same time. Do not bother messing around with your stock dizzy and ign system with plans on upgrading later!

Ad0911

Any ignition kits with coil packs and CNP around four our V8's?

Ducman82

I used Ls2 coils for cnp

hacker-pschorr

That's a good method to get things up and running, but personally long term I would mount a proper timing ring to the flywheel. You can use the 60-2 or the 100 tooth (I added the 100 tooth to mine).

The signal you are using runs off the distributor which piggybacks the camshaft / timing belt. In theory (explained to me by a pro engine tuner a lot smarter than me) as the motor expands and contracts this can subtly change the signal. This isn't a big deal for the cam timing, but for fine tuning ignition timing you don't want that signal coming from anything belt driven.

I drilled a hole in the upper bellhousing to mount my cam sensor exactly like the factory did. I used the two stand-off bosses on either side to hold the bracket a local machinist made for me.

If interested, I can see if he would make another one. It's a massive piece for what it is, but it also acts as a template for drilling the hole. I did this in-situ with the clutch / flywheel removed.


MegaSquirt is an awesome change from CIS. I was an idiot and converted my L-Jet car to LH/EZF from a EuroS. It works great and I just "wanted to do it" but hindsight I should have gone with a 3rd party unit like you are doing.


Here is the custom bracket:


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hp18racer

The tach signal I am using is definitely only good as a trigger for a 'fuel only' system. Going to do a trigger wheel for spark.

Thanks for the input on the spark options/gains. I am sure I will go there but for now I am focusing on making the fuel only change work.

hp18racer

It took a few hours fiddling with computer settings for warm start and MAP change enrichment in the garage to get it ready for the road. After over a month of snow and ice, finally got some warm days, clear roads and a test drive! I am very pleased with results so far, next step is using the wide band for tuning.

hp18racer

One thing to add on making fuel rails. I did not use the special tool for drilling the an-orb fittings where the an fittings screw into the ends of the fuel rails. I bought a drill bit that was about 1/32" diameter bigger diameter than the threads and put a little countersink into the end of the fuel rail to give the o-ring a shoulder to press against.

It took me a little while to discover I was putting in too much fuel while cranking. It took longer to discover I had it wrong than to fix it. Fortunately the only times I had a flood/no start were in my driveway.

Tuner studio makes it easy to get it running well. With the wide band in I could see that the default maps were conservative but not crazy rich, a good safe starting point. I've been adjusting the volumetric efficiency table to get the mixture where I want it across the load range a little at a time.

hacker-pschorr

Another option is switch to an L-Jet or EuroS (84/85) intake manifold and use the fuel rails from a 32V car.

The spacing is exactly the same and they use standard injectors.

Fabio421

Yes, this would have saved you lots of money and trouble. You could have used the stock fuel lines and hoses as well. I had to drill out the holes in the intake where the injectors poke through in order to make them deep enough for my 62LB/HR modern injectors to be able to seal properly. If you use the 85-86 fuel rails you will need to cut off some of the mounting tabs to allow them to fit in the space available.

hp18racer

I did look at the option of using L-Jet or EuroS intake & fuel rails but the fab work to get away from them was worth it to me.

Part of what I wanted to get out of this project was to get away from 30 year old fuel lines and rails.