Hi all,

Prepping to do my first mechanical fix on my 928, an important/necessary one - it's time to fix the sloppy shifter.

I am getting ready to place a little order here and wanted someone to check my list. I am going to R&R all three problem points in the system:

-Shift Coupler part 928 424 029 00 x1
-Conical set screw 928 424 229 00 x1
-Rubber boot 928 424 209 00 x1
-Bushings 928 924 002 40 x4
-Ball cup & Bushing 928 424 005 01 x1

I have referenced these part numbers from the original Porsche parts diagrams and it appears that these are the main areas of taking on wear in operation of the gearshift.

Is there anything else that I should know? I am aware of the upgraded versions of the ball cup and the shift coupler offered by 928 Motorsports, but I just don't feel that I need them.

Thank you in advance,
Royal

 

The four bushings at the base of the lever are: 999 924 002 40 x4

For the rear coupler (928 424 029 00) you can just replace the bushings in it if you have a press - the bushings are 911 424 223 03 and you need 2.

For the front coupler (928 424 005 01), you can just replace the (missing/disintegrating) plastic cup inside the metal fitting, which is 928 116 115 03 (same as the clutch release arm cup - which you should replace too, so get two of them).

For the rubber boot - do not cut it (lots of people here advise cutting it for some reason - I don't see why, its not exactly hard to put on/off). A bit of rubber grease on the inside lip and a rotating movement will slip it over the rear coupler.

 

Well dang - you just saved me over a hundred bucks. Thanks for the tips!!!

Edit: cannot seem to find 928 116 115 03, however...?

or did you mean 928 116 *145* 03?

 

yes, thats what I mean

 

Cheers, mate! Thanks for your expertise.

 

Here are a couple of pics.

First one is of the rear coupler shown pulled apart, with a pic of each of the bushes you can get ... the standard which has an oval hole or the aftermarket delrin (which 928'sRus have), which firms up the action a bit more. If you haven't got a press you can put an appropriate sized socket on one side of the coupler, a bolt or pin on the head of the shaft (3) on the other side, and then put it in a vise to press the shaft through and out.

The second pic is of the front ball cup with a new insert pushed in, which as Hilton pointed out is the same as the clutch arm cup. Dig the old one out, and then press the new one in, making sure it clicks in behind the outer lip which retains it, as shown installed in the pic.

If you wanted to go for a short shifter, as shown in the third pic, now would be the time to do it ... I have one and the delrin bushes on my 82, and I'm about to put delrin in my GTS.

If you can get the grub screw out undamaged, as I have with mine, then there's really no compelling need to replace it.

We like our 5 speeds here in Oz

 

Yeah, I'm going to stick with the original shifter. I'm one of "those guys" that likes original parts. :-)

Now that I look at it more consciously, there's absolutely no reason to buy a new coupler. I'm loving this little tip of just buying the bushings for these parts.

Really a well designed system and pretty easy to R&R.

Those little grub screws are a bitch, on other cars than 928's too. The throw out bearing set up on Triumph TR series often had problems with those breaking off and bending...

I bought the grub screw because it was only $4 and that way I've got it handy in the case that it's a b to gf's out. :-)

 

I just did my rear coupler and replaced only the two bushings, as recommended here. It was a great decision and a huge improvement.
I reused the conical allen bolt. If you do a search, you will see some here who built a conical bolt out of a regular Hex head bolt. I used WD40 and Liquid Wrench extensively before trying to remove it, as I was concerned about stripping the allen cavity at the bolt head.
For the front one, I did not do it because I have brand new Volvo mounts and am unsure how to remove and install with the confined space I had on mine. Again a search will show you that some used a ratched strap to pull the cup back into the torque tube ball mount
Good luck

Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist

 

I use two big heavy duty hose clamps in series to go around the t-tube and the socket then turn the screw to pop the socket on the ball ....very easy ! I then leave the clamp loosely in place so there is no way it will ever pop off again....

 

I've never found the grub screw that hard - but have seen others struggle here. I've replaced the shifter linkage bushings on 3 928's I've owned so far.

The key is to use a small butane torch to heat up the grub screw enough to weaken the loctite on it - if you go to turn it and it doesn't move fairly easily, its not hot enough. I suspect too many just try too much force too soon and strip the grub screw.

 

Best advice ever........

Hey Royal, glad to see you are digging into a 928
Good Luck and let me know if you might need some help...

Cheers, Kevin in VA

 

More than excited. When you feel passion and dedication for a vehicle and surround yourself with knowledgeable folks like yourselves - the outcome is generally good.

I am here because I truly love the 928. I fell in love with it as a child probably twenty years ago, and now I'm blessed to own one.

Thank you all for your tips and tricks!

 

Thanks for this post. Bushings ordered and ready to be replaced next week.

I have not taken it apart yet but the bushings for the rear (911-424-223-03) look plastic and the ones in the picture posted above look metal. Does the stock setup have metal on the outside of the plastic bushings?

 

just old rubber/plastic looking bushings. mine were like gummy bears, i could pop them out with my fingers.

 

The photo with the red shift lever shows another potential problem part. Just forward of the box around the shifter, the forward shift rod goes thru the rubber mount shown. The black ring touching the rod is a plastic bearing - it sometimes crumbles, allowing some extra slop in the system.

Unfortunately, replacement of the mount requires some serious disassembly. I managed to make a replacement plastic ring with a spiral cut to allow installation. The ring was then glued to the rubber boot. After the glue cured, the area was lubricated with SuperLube.