Really stuck rear wheel bearing race
#31
I now have the bearing races stuck on the steel hubs, and the outer races are not coming out of the uprights on 3 units I am trying to redo. (4th on its way from ebay).
So the outer race is a weld a bead and it drops out? Even on a race as big as the rear wheel bearing?
So the outer race is a weld a bead and it drops out? Even on a race as big as the rear wheel bearing?
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#33
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I've done just what Colin suggests, using a Dremel with a small fiber cut-off disc to cut 3/4th of the way through the race then hitting the cut with a chisel, the race snapped open. No damage done to the hub. Other times there was enough of a lip on the race that I could drive it off from behind, again using a chisel, just enough to lift it off base of the hub and then grab it with pullers. In your case the cutoff wheel is probably needed. Even if you happen to nick the base of the hub, that's not a bearing contact area, so no harm done.
#34
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Oxy/Acet torch, quickly heat the race, the axle will not heat up much. When red hot the race will drop off the axle. Done this many times on rear axles back in the day. Axle/bearing interface prevents axle from getting too hot.
Mapp torch is useless for this method, won't heat up the race quickly enough, gets the axle hot.
Dave
Mapp torch is useless for this method, won't heat up the race quickly enough, gets the axle hot.
Dave
#35
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Brendan--
Since you have several, and they are not mounted to cars, consider getting a bulk deal from a local auto machine shop to do them all for you with a press.
Since you have several, and they are not mounted to cars, consider getting a bulk deal from a local auto machine shop to do them all for you with a press.
#36
I have today to play with them. I don't think Clare wants these in her oven.
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#38
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On a more serious note, second hand ovens are pretty cheap. A friend of mine did that. He was doing a pretty serious restoration and was painting a lot of smaller parts.
He decided that he wanted to bake the paint for a better finish. He found one locally for next to nothing.
#39
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That only works if she can use the savings to go and buy said pair of heels.
On a more serious note, second hand ovens are pretty cheap. A friend of mine did that. He was doing a pretty serious restoration and was painting a lot of smaller parts.
He decided that he wanted to bake the paint for a better finish. He found one locally for next to nothing.
On a more serious note, second hand ovens are pretty cheap. A friend of mine did that. He was doing a pretty serious restoration and was painting a lot of smaller parts.
He decided that he wanted to bake the paint for a better finish. He found one locally for next to nothing.
#41
I am not good at welding yet. The idea is to weld the inside of the bearing in the upright (as our Mike Simard calls it) so it gets hot and then it comes out after that more easily? There is such a small ledge to push on from the right (correct) side, it would have to be a perfect sized pressing piece.
#43
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So the race can't expand much as it's heated by the welding. But as it cools, the new weld metal does shrink. The weld doesn't have to be pretty, but it does need to be fast so the heat doesn't migrate much to the aluminum.
The bearing is a double-row ball bearing. With the inside-half inner race and ***** in place, you can push on the inner race to move the outer race.
The B90 tool has an assortment of bearing driver pieces, including one that fits inside the lip in the upright but still contacts the outer race. That lip isn't very wide. If you don't have access to the B90, the Harbor Freight front wheel bearing tool has a similar assortment of the little driver/adapters. It's missing the critical horseshoe piece used to pull the stub axle from the bearing, but otherwise has the pieces needed. Around $100 on a sale flier recently for that set.
Again, for a one-time effort it's easier/cheaper/safer/faster to let an auto machine shop do it for you. It just isn't as much fun.
The bearing is a double-row ball bearing. With the inside-half inner race and ***** in place, you can push on the inner race to move the outer race.
The B90 tool has an assortment of bearing driver pieces, including one that fits inside the lip in the upright but still contacts the outer race. That lip isn't very wide. If you don't have access to the B90, the Harbor Freight front wheel bearing tool has a similar assortment of the little driver/adapters. It's missing the critical horseshoe piece used to pull the stub axle from the bearing, but otherwise has the pieces needed. Around $100 on a sale flier recently for that set.
Again, for a one-time effort it's easier/cheaper/safer/faster to let an auto machine shop do it for you. It just isn't as much fun.
#44
I have four of them. I'm hoarding parts again....