928 no start...sounds like battery but...
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
928 no start...sounds like battery but...
1982 automatic.
Recent purchase, first Porsche. I'm slowly (very) working my way over this. Have been over most, not all, ground points, new ground strap, fuses, numerous other minor parts. Old Bosch alternator. Was working on tranny (cables, fluid) but ran into a new or old problem after replacing some vacuum lines. Won't start.
I drove it home at night when I bought it, lights were dim. Tightened alternator belt. Charged battery several times. I've jumped it and started it with 6 A charger attached but have read since then that that's bad. Dunno why.
Battery reads at 13 - 14 V when I put it back in after charging. A few days ago, after charging battery and running for a bit, the red ! came on, lights got bright. I shut it down. I jumped it once since then, ran it briefly, parked it. Now, it won't start. Sometimes I get clicking from the starter, sometimes I get one click and a "your block is seized" feeling.
Maybe it means my battery is junk but it still reads 12 V after attempting to start. I know that's a bit low. Maybe that's the problem but i'm posting this question in case someone reads this and has something to say like, wait, you're wasting your time, check the....
I'm getting to the point where I'm thinking I need to get rid of the alternator and put in the Camaro one, buy a fresh battery, and start over. Trouble is, that's $200-$300 or so that I don't want to spend if I have a serious and expensive problem. I can't imagine that the engine would be seized, it hasn't been put to the test at all since I bought it.
Also, really, I'll be looking to trade this 928 within a year or two because I want a 5 speed. I'll put some money into it to get it close to factory specs, clean, and somewhat more trusty but not the level of restore I'd put into a 5 speed.
I tend to want to replace parts rather than fully diagnose and I know that so I'm trying really hard to not spend unnecessarily. Any help, advice, or just a dope-slap is appreciated. Thanks!
Recent purchase, first Porsche. I'm slowly (very) working my way over this. Have been over most, not all, ground points, new ground strap, fuses, numerous other minor parts. Old Bosch alternator. Was working on tranny (cables, fluid) but ran into a new or old problem after replacing some vacuum lines. Won't start.
I drove it home at night when I bought it, lights were dim. Tightened alternator belt. Charged battery several times. I've jumped it and started it with 6 A charger attached but have read since then that that's bad. Dunno why.
Battery reads at 13 - 14 V when I put it back in after charging. A few days ago, after charging battery and running for a bit, the red ! came on, lights got bright. I shut it down. I jumped it once since then, ran it briefly, parked it. Now, it won't start. Sometimes I get clicking from the starter, sometimes I get one click and a "your block is seized" feeling.
Maybe it means my battery is junk but it still reads 12 V after attempting to start. I know that's a bit low. Maybe that's the problem but i'm posting this question in case someone reads this and has something to say like, wait, you're wasting your time, check the....
I'm getting to the point where I'm thinking I need to get rid of the alternator and put in the Camaro one, buy a fresh battery, and start over. Trouble is, that's $200-$300 or so that I don't want to spend if I have a serious and expensive problem. I can't imagine that the engine would be seized, it hasn't been put to the test at all since I bought it.
Also, really, I'll be looking to trade this 928 within a year or two because I want a 5 speed. I'll put some money into it to get it close to factory specs, clean, and somewhat more trusty but not the level of restore I'd put into a 5 speed.
I tend to want to replace parts rather than fully diagnose and I know that so I'm trying really hard to not spend unnecessarily. Any help, advice, or just a dope-slap is appreciated. Thanks!
#2
Addict extrordinare
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
What is the voltage when you try to start it?
Also, not fully diagnosing a problem and buying parts is a sure fire way to spend unnecessarily.
Also, not fully diagnosing a problem and buying parts is a sure fire way to spend unnecessarily.
#3
Burning Brakes
Take the battery to the auto parts store and have it load tested (must be fully charged first). If that tests OK, check your positive battery cable connections (assuming the ground is good as you already replaced it).
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks! I need to be reminded of the simple things first. So tempting to just replace everything with shiny new stuff. Thanks for helping to control my frivolous side.
The voltage when I try to start it is hard to read. I don't trust my dash at all. I only checked once but, when I took the battery off the charger, it was in the 13-14 V range. After trying to start it, I read 12 V. My meter may be suspect. It's as old as the car, Radio Shack multi meter, the nicer one from that era. Maybe I should modernize?
I'll try to load test idea.
I haven't checked positive side yet. Good idea.
The voltage when I try to start it is hard to read. I don't trust my dash at all. I only checked once but, when I took the battery off the charger, it was in the 13-14 V range. After trying to start it, I read 12 V. My meter may be suspect. It's as old as the car, Radio Shack multi meter, the nicer one from that era. Maybe I should modernize?
I'll try to load test idea.
I haven't checked positive side yet. Good idea.
#5
Addict extrordinare
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
The load test is a good idea. What I suggested was basically quick cursory load test. The auto parts store will be able to give you precise data. Let us know what you find out.
I too still fall for the shiny new stuff option. I know how tempting it can be.
I too still fall for the shiny new stuff option. I know how tempting it can be.
#6
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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Throwing random and expensive parts at a problem sounds like fun, but can also trash a budget in a hurry. I'll also suggest that, if you plan to buy a 5-speed car in the next year, adjust your plans now. Sell the one you have now, and find the car you want. Do your restoration on the right car for you. Dollars you spend on the existing car just to get it running are OK, because the percentage value of a non-running car is a small fraction of the same car running well. After that, every dollar you put in the car might bring back twenty cents at resale time if you are lucky. Same goes for the 5-speed car you'll buy, but you'll have the option to recover your resto costs by driving the car after the work is current.
A dozen or more years ago, a local 928 uber-enthusiast was casually searching for that perfect late-model GTS 5-speed. None seemed to fit his needs. During the search period, an earlier car came on the market for a good price. It had OK bones but lots of stuff had stopped working for the PO. So the 'interim' car was purchased for a few $K, and the fun started. Interior was out, in and out again regularly it seemed as ground wiring was traced. Over time, the stuff that hadn't worked before was brought to life again. Lots of hours and lots of dollars went into that car over the next half-dozen years. And that was for a car that wasn't what he really wanted. It died a sudden and unexpected death by cam nose fracture, causing the owner to make a decision moving away from the 928. He still loves them, but doesn't own one anymore.
A dozen or more years ago, a local 928 uber-enthusiast was casually searching for that perfect late-model GTS 5-speed. None seemed to fit his needs. During the search period, an earlier car came on the market for a good price. It had OK bones but lots of stuff had stopped working for the PO. So the 'interim' car was purchased for a few $K, and the fun started. Interior was out, in and out again regularly it seemed as ground wiring was traced. Over time, the stuff that hadn't worked before was brought to life again. Lots of hours and lots of dollars went into that car over the next half-dozen years. And that was for a car that wasn't what he really wanted. It died a sudden and unexpected death by cam nose fracture, causing the owner to make a decision moving away from the 928. He still loves them, but doesn't own one anymore.
#7
Burning Brakes
The click, click, click when you turn the key indicates a discharged battery - not enough juice for the starter to crank it over.
On the other hand, if you have a thrust bearing failure, the starter may not be able to turn over the engine (although that's not the normal failure mode). Have you checked your crank end play - released the flexplate? With a little luck, it's just a bad battery.
On the other hand, if you have a thrust bearing failure, the starter may not be able to turn over the engine (although that's not the normal failure mode). Have you checked your crank end play - released the flexplate? With a little luck, it's just a bad battery.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
As has been suggested, load test the battery. That can be done out of the car - most parts stores do it for free (to sell you a new one) Or in the car - Have someone put the meter on the battery as you are cranking it. Those old Tandy meters are built like tanks, they last a long time.
You say in the OP that you have charged the battery several times. Why? Is it dead after a few days (won't hold a charge)? That strongly suggest that the battery is junk.
And FWIW, jump starting these cars is a bad idea because you can fry the computers if you do it wrong. It's best to disconnect the battery to charge it too.
You say in the OP that you have charged the battery several times. Why? Is it dead after a few days (won't hold a charge)? That strongly suggest that the battery is junk.
And FWIW, jump starting these cars is a bad idea because you can fry the computers if you do it wrong. It's best to disconnect the battery to charge it too.
#9
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the red ! came on, lights got bright. I shut it down. I jumped it once since then, ran it briefly, parked it. Now, it won't start.
#10
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Load test shows battery is good. That's all I can check till tomorrow or Sunday. Charged the battery multiple times, I should have said, prior to tightening alt belt, cleaning grounds, and replacing ground strap. Thanks for the ideas, sorry to be moving slowly.
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
The click, click, click when you turn the key indicates a discharged battery - not enough juice for the starter to crank it over.
On the other hand, if you have a thrust bearing failure, the starter may not be able to turn over the engine (although that's not the normal failure mode). Have you checked your crank end play - released the flexplate? With a little luck, it's just a bad battery.
On the other hand, if you have a thrust bearing failure, the starter may not be able to turn over the engine (although that's not the normal failure mode). Have you checked your crank end play - released the flexplate? With a little luck, it's just a bad battery.
Since the battery tests fine, I think the starter solenoid might be one problem as suggested. Maybe a loose alternator wire explains the red ! I didn't catch any specific error light when the red ! came on.
Still lots to learn!
#12
Nordschleife Master
Thrust Bearing Failure and how to check for it are covered in the "New Visitor" sticky. So are a lot of the electrical issues. TBF usually shows up when the engine is hot, not cold; I kind of doubt that it is the cause of this particular problem. But checking for it is something that should be done anyway.
If the battery is good, but the starter is just clicking, then power is not getting to it (duh). You need a clear and viable current path for the starter to turn. It draws a lot of power. It is possible to see good continuity with a meter, but the connections aren't good enough to carry the current needed to crank it over. Check the entire positive path from the battery to the starter, check all your grounds, maybe replace the negative ground strap. There have been instances where the ground strap corroded under the insulation. It looked fine, but wouldn't carry enough current to do the job. Someone (MainePorsche IIRC) has a pic of it.
The ground points are in the sticky, there are links to the cleaning procedure in there too (Post #33 IIRC).
If the battery is good, but the starter is just clicking, then power is not getting to it (duh). You need a clear and viable current path for the starter to turn. It draws a lot of power. It is possible to see good continuity with a meter, but the connections aren't good enough to carry the current needed to crank it over. Check the entire positive path from the battery to the starter, check all your grounds, maybe replace the negative ground strap. There have been instances where the ground strap corroded under the insulation. It looked fine, but wouldn't carry enough current to do the job. Someone (MainePorsche IIRC) has a pic of it.
The ground points are in the sticky, there are links to the cleaning procedure in there too (Post #33 IIRC).
#13
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Mummified barn mouse
Thrust Bearing Failure and how to check for it are covered in the "New Visitor" sticky. So are a lot of the electrical issues.
Check the entire positive path from the battery to the starter, check all your grounds, maybe replace the negative ground strap. There have been instances where the ground strap corroded under the insulation. It looked fine, but wouldn't carry enough current to do the job. Someone (MainePorsche IIRC) has a pic of it.
So, put the battery in tonight, turned the key, only one big click. No start. Possible faint electrical smell but there's so many smells in my shop I'm not sure. Pulled the battery, started to follow the + side from the starter. That's as far as I got. Thought the open copper wire from the solenoid to the starter looked flat black. Pulled the starter, cleaned it up, wire looks okay, will test tomorrow.
An interesting thing about the evening's adventure was finding a mummified barn mouse beside the starter pinion gear up below the flywheel. I guess my car was a barn find, after all. Maybe the mummy was responsible for bad juju and the car's problems are all over now.
Also, while turning the allen bolts on the starter about a quarter turn at a time I was thinking about how much time, effort and money I'm putting into the Porsche (sounds like a feminine name) and how I've put a lot less into some dates a long time ago. SO, when the Porsche begins to "put out" ( haven't driven her much yet), is she worth it?
Again, thanks for the help! Keeps me moving along.