I no longer have AC in my RS, I have removed all high/low pressure refrigerant lines as well as the other AC accessories.

I left the fuel cooler in place, but it no longer will cool fuel as designed because there is no refrigerant line.

Should I bypass the entire fuel cooler or continue to leave it in place.

I had an idea regarding adding a finned heat sink to the cooler body but I'm not sure that would do much.

Any recommend a specific aftermarket device that would fit nicely?

 

since its hidden behind the aircleaner you could leave it alone.

BUT the only concern would be if the cooler ruptured then fuel would exit the open ends.
So complete cooler removal and bypassing might be the safest bet

 

Thanks Stan.

are they known to rupture?

 

Never heard of one rupturing.

Rather than trying to add fins to yours, I recommend that you insulate it again. The engine bay there is hardly a cool zone. The history of the fuel cooler starts way back in the CIS days, as a way to avoid fuel vapor lock in front, and boiling fuel in the tank on hot days. Maybe one of our CS owners, cars specidfically without AC, could comment on what's in that space in the fuel return line.

 

I am pretty sure they did not add the fuel cooler until 83.

 

HiMatt,
I agree, rather than fins that would probably absorb heat, I would insulate the cooler area, and maybe other fuel lines as well. Summit sell some insulating sleeves and tapes.
Good luck,
Dave

 

Early 928's have no cooler, AC and non-AC the same. Nothing but tubing, Capt. Stubing.

Matt,
Since it's part of the AC system, remove the cooler and re-route your fuel lines.

 

I thought it was more like the opposite, CIS never got vapor lock because the operating pressure in K-Jet is so high.

 

My AC lines have been open since the SC was grafted on (over 8 years ago) and had no issues with the cooler staying in place.

 

Thanks all above.

Anyway, I left it in place, trimmed off the end lugs and did re-insulate it.

I will remove it all later though as Jim D. advises,

I think the system will actually heat the fuel now as Dave M. suggests above.

 

I had one trimmed for my old 'race' car.

The hose barb was brazed on. They reheated and removed it, cut the tube and put it back on.

 

^^^^ Look at all that weight savings right there!

 

With my MY 1983 it is very easy to bypass the fuel cooling circuit and cost nothing.

The main fuel return line which comes up the passenger side firewall plugs right into the feed off the fuel rail system to the fuel cooler line.

It looks as though it was also this way. Just test drove her.
I took pics but my motor need a detailing and i don't want to embarrass the car.

 

Yep. There you go!

Oooo... loose the air injection pipe on the backside and plug the holes. More weight loss!

 

I'm on it (Air Pump plumbing). Looking at the microfiche to be sure i get it all and right. It's nice having less clutter around the motor. I cleaned the motor a bit and replaced the rubber vacuum lines.

I still need to remove the condensing coil out of the heater box before i can install the dash. I am also trying to figure the best way to polish this hard paint. I have found the method but my polisher quit (needs carbon brushes). Trying not to be too obsessed with perfection and enjoy the car.

Jim, i put the phonedial pic up for you, they look great now as you said they would.

I'm using RSR style racing lug nuts with the proper zinc chromate plated finish.