Indy Rev

Fuel Pump is pulling 13.82 amps. I tested it directly jumping it while the car was off.
Not sure what it is supposed to pull.

Bill Ball

Maximum draw should be 11 amps, so the fuel pump is not good. BUT, the fuse should BLOW, not FRY. This means you've got corrosion in the fuse holder.

Indy Rev

Bill is that max load or is it a continuous 11amp draw. it needs to be replaced anyways so i guess it doesn't matter to much, just trying to have a better comprehension of how it works.

I spent last night rehabbing my ce/fuse panel. I used Deoxit and some assorted files and sand paper to clean everything. I let it all dry over-night and will re-install tonight, and clean the rest of the grounding points.

I used this write-up as reference. Thanks Hans for pointing me in the right direction.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...f-grounds.html

G8RB8

That fuse melted due to poor contact in it's socket.

Bill Ball

Max. Here's a reference. I think the stock pump is the one that ends in 040.

http://www.bosch.com.au/car_parts/en.../fuelpumps.pdf

At our stock fuel pressure it probably should draw about 8 amps. Here's a comparison that includes the Bosche 044, which puts out about twice the flow of the 040. The 044 max draw is 15.5 amps, but you can see it runs well below that at stock fuel pressure (~55 PSI).

http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...on-test-5.html

Indy Rev

Thanks Bill

Indy Rev

Ok I got the car started... But now it won't stay started. If I give it gas it will stay running until I let off. If I disconnect the maf the car will fire right up and stay running around 1500-2000 rpm.

I tested the maf and I am at 4ohms when jumping 3-5 but am only at 171.4 when jumping 3-6 for idle. I'm taking this as a bad maf unless someone else has a something else I can check.

Things done to car as of today
New silicone vac lines, new plugs, timing belt retensioned, ce refresh, ground points cleaned, injectors cleaned, various engine connectors cleaned "while I was in there", fuel pump replaced. I'm sure there is a bit more but can't remember.

Bill Ball

The second resistance test does not apply to cars with cats. If the car runs better with the MAF disconnected (although it can never run well that way) then the MAF is likely bad. It's worth looking at the harness plug too. If the plug boot is brittle and cracked it is likely that insulation on the wires within the boot is also cracked and the wires shorted.

Indy Rev

I will take a better look at the plug boot. The were a bit grungy so I cleaned the contact but I didn't really look at the boot for cracks.

Indy Rev

Tried a known good maf last night and still no go. The connector boot is split at the very bottom, but wires look fine. I will be testing those tomorrow night.
with the maf hooked up the car starts and dies, if given gas the car will rev the die or sputter, backfire, chug, then die.
maf disconnected, car fires right up, idle at 1500 rpm and revs fine. No sputtering or backfiring or chugging.

Could a bad ISV contribute to this? What else could i be missing? "other than everything"

Bill Ball

Well, if the ISV is stuck wide open, the idle would be high and variable. But I can't quite fathom why the MAF would make a difference if the problem were just the ISV, but that's just me. You could be onto something. Did you open up the split boot and closely look over the wires? You can "repair" the boot with high temperature self vulcanizing silicone tape, something like this, available at most auto parts stores.
http://www.xtremetape.com/

John Speake

Disconnecting the MAF into limp home mode just tells the LH to give a fixed injector pulse width to the fuel injectors.

So something is fooling the MAF when it is connected in your car. This might be a big airleak.....
set the car into limp home and let it idle until warm. The connect a vacuum gauge to the vac line on the fuel damper at the front centre of the engine. You should get around 21"Hg.

Let us know what you get...

Indy Rev

Thanks guys for the replies.

I will split the boot tomorrow night and check it. I love that Xtape stuff.

I will also check the vac on the damper. I was thinking the vac lines might be the issue so I replace all the fuel line vacs and all others that I had enough extra line to replace. Which was just about everything not going through the firewall.

Indy Rev

Shes alive.
After fiddling with the car and pulling vac tests I finally reverted to the old carb cleaner test and found that I had some bad leaks in the larger vac lines under the intake. "please note that you should use caution with carb cleaner and a running engine."
I replace all the large lines and clamps, small lines, intake boots and maf. Now she 's purring
I believe the issue with the maf was a leak in one of the large intake boots. when I replaced it the car would start with the maf connected, but the idle would surge. Thats when I started pulling the large vac lines. I still need to run a new line to the trans, as it hard shifts between 1-2 and 2-3

Thanks for all the help and input.

auzivision

Great news!

brakes working yet? if so, test drive to my house for a free beer.

I'll be garage working all weekend too (hopefully) if you need a hand with anything.

Oh yeah, did you check then tension yet?