Interesting radiator failure mode - Sharktoberfest shakedown
#16
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
How much time will it take to return to stock configuration for biennial SoCal smog inspections?
That's one of the reasons I've stayed away from modified induction on my car.
That's one of the reasons I've stayed away from modified induction on my car.
Good question- I'm going to try to convince Greg to let me take this intake off at home when I swap it back to stock so I can see how long it takes. My bet is it'll be 6-8 hours for me to do the swap. I've done two intake R&R's this year already (1 to install the Alpha N stuff on the GTS, and one on the GT, pre-sale, to chase possible vacuum leaks), so the stock intake setup is pretty straightforward by now.
It's going to go back to stock much sooner than the next smog due date (May 2014) so that Greg can get to work on replicating the setup. Likely shortly after we get to the dyno, hopefully in the next week or two.
#17
Nordschleife Master
I'm not following what it is that happened.
When cold the pump circulates within the block.
When warm it transitions to drawing from the radiator.
Both modes the pump runs the coolant through the block before it goes to the radiator, what is the source of excessive pressure and why didn't it vent from the overflow tank?
When cold the pump circulates within the block.
When warm it transitions to drawing from the radiator.
Both modes the pump runs the coolant through the block before it goes to the radiator, what is the source of excessive pressure and why didn't it vent from the overflow tank?
#18
Rennlist Member
I think it going to be more than 125rwhp up on the stock intake power.....
#19
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,164
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Now over heating is different. But usually the cap will release or the expansion tank will be sacrificed before the radiator.
I suspect something different was the cause......most likely a manufacturing issue or a cap issue.
#21
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
I'm sorry, but I am trying to get my head around this. If it is true that the water pressure of the pump caused the crimps to move then every 928 I have ever driven in should have leaking radiators. Who here hasn't run up to red line before the thermostat opened? Having extra HP does not change the way the pump works.
Now over heating is different. But usually the cap will release or the expansion tank will be sacrificed before the radiator.
I suspect something different was the cause......most likely a manufacturing issue or a cap issue.
Now over heating is different. But usually the cap will release or the expansion tank will be sacrificed before the radiator.
I suspect something different was the cause......most likely a manufacturing issue or a cap issue.
My radiator repair guy has been fixing radiators since the dark ages. He claims that there is "localized" pressures within a cooling system. He says that the old "soldered on" tanks would bulge and pull loose the solder joints on the hot side tanks, when there were localized overpressure situations....and the cap would never open.
This is all new, to me, also. I'm not making this stuff up, as I go.....there's plenty of that, in the 928 world, already. Rob's tank was obviously pushed up and leaking. I figured it was a defective radiator. My "old school" radiator guy took the time to tell me what his experience has been, over the years. Just passing that information on.
__________________
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
greg brown
714 879 9072
GregBBRD@aol.com
Semi-retired, as of Feb 1, 2023.
The days of free technical advice are over.
Free consultations will no longer be available.
Will still be in the shop, isolated and exclusively working on project cars, developmental work and products, engines and transmissions.
Have fun with your 928's people!
#22
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
As far as failures with new Behr radiators, while anything is possible.....I'm going to guess that I've put in more of these than anyone, other than the Porsche factory.....and I've never seen a single failure.
#23
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
Randy-
Good question- I'm going to try to convince Greg to let me take this intake off at home when I swap it back to stock so I can see how long it takes. My bet is it'll be 6-8 hours for me to do the swap. I've done two intake R&R's this year already (1 to install the Alpha N stuff on the GTS, and one on the GT, pre-sale, to chase possible vacuum leaks), so the stock intake setup is pretty straightforward by now.
It's going to go back to stock much sooner than the next smog due date (May 2014) so that Greg can get to work on replicating the setup. Likely shortly after we get to the dyno, hopefully in the next week or two.
Good question- I'm going to try to convince Greg to let me take this intake off at home when I swap it back to stock so I can see how long it takes. My bet is it'll be 6-8 hours for me to do the swap. I've done two intake R&R's this year already (1 to install the Alpha N stuff on the GTS, and one on the GT, pre-sale, to chase possible vacuum leaks), so the stock intake setup is pretty straightforward by now.
It's going to go back to stock much sooner than the next smog due date (May 2014) so that Greg can get to work on replicating the setup. Likely shortly after we get to the dyno, hopefully in the next week or two.
If this intake does what I think it will do, combined with my exhaust system, to the 5.0 and 5.4 engines, we will certainly be applying for a CARB exemption.
My stroker engines are so clean that they can virtually pass the California smog test without any cats. No reason to think we can't accomplish the same thing on a stock engine.
All part of the plan......tiny steps, when self funded and not independently wealthy.
#24
Rennlist Member
That aluminum is stiff, doesn't bend easy, I'm thinking u all were smoking more than rubber if u think that the water pump did that
#25
Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor
Basic Site Sponsor
I've got pics of a brand new rad w/ bad tank crimp. A full refund was provided to the owner, it was on the left side, so the right side is not out of the question.
That aluminum is stiff, doesn't bend easy, I'm thinking u all were smoking more than rubber if u think that the water pump did that
That aluminum is stiff, doesn't bend easy, I'm thinking u all were smoking more than rubber if u think that the water pump did that
Actually, the aluminum on this new radiator is like butter and bends very easily. There was absolutely no chance any of the tabs would have broken off.....very flexible.
My "old school" radiator guy things the aluminum might get harder, as the years pass, which is possibly why the aluminum on the older Behr radiators is so stiff. He also mentioned that it is possible that materials have evolved, since the original Behr radiators were made for these cars, some 25 years ago. He says that on the current Ford and Chevy radiators with plastic tanks, one would have to work very hard to break off any of the tabs. The aluminum is very flexible and can be bent back and forth many, many times without breaking.
#26
Nordschleife Master
Maybe something like water hammer?
Some valves shut off suddenly and send a pressure spike back up a water line hard enough to make the pipes "ring". We had a boiler like that and had to put in a vertical air filled pipe near the valve to cushion the shut off.
Simple test might be to use both hands and squeeze the in and out hoses to the radiator while somebody blips the motor. Blips are a bunch more rapid than any runs in gear.
On a not warmed up motor, a blip might also rapidly close the thermostat as a dose of cooler water comes from the radiator.
Some valves shut off suddenly and send a pressure spike back up a water line hard enough to make the pipes "ring". We had a boiler like that and had to put in a vertical air filled pipe near the valve to cushion the shut off.
Simple test might be to use both hands and squeeze the in and out hoses to the radiator while somebody blips the motor. Blips are a bunch more rapid than any runs in gear.
On a not warmed up motor, a blip might also rapidly close the thermostat as a dose of cooler water comes from the radiator.
#27
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,164
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
In our theory, rate of acceleration is one of the factors. This engine changes rpms faster than any 928 engine I've been around.
My radiator repair guy has been fixing radiators since the dark ages. He claims that there is "localized" pressures within a cooling system. He says that the old "soldered on" tanks would bulge and pull loose the solder joints on the hot side tanks, when there were localized overpressure situations....and the cap would never open.
This is all new, to me, also. I'm not making this stuff up, as I go.....there's plenty of that, in the 928 world, already. Rob's tank was obviously pushed up and leaking. I figured it was a defective radiator. My "old school" radiator guy took the time to tell me what his experience has been, over the years. Just passing that information on.
My radiator repair guy has been fixing radiators since the dark ages. He claims that there is "localized" pressures within a cooling system. He says that the old "soldered on" tanks would bulge and pull loose the solder joints on the hot side tanks, when there were localized overpressure situations....and the cap would never open.
This is all new, to me, also. I'm not making this stuff up, as I go.....there's plenty of that, in the 928 world, already. Rob's tank was obviously pushed up and leaking. I figured it was a defective radiator. My "old school" radiator guy took the time to tell me what his experience has been, over the years. Just passing that information on.
Anyone have a rad they want to blow up? Run a pressure test to failure and see what pressure will do it. Then stick a pressure gauge in Rob's car and see what is generated there. It will certainly prove or disprove this theory easily.
#28
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,164
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
If you have ever seen a thermostat operate you will understand that even from 100 C to 0C it operates quite slowly. You must remove the heat energy from the spring and that takes quite a bit. No water hammering there.