CPS broke on removal- now what?
#16
You should be able to get the headers off. Worst case, reciprocating saw would be helpful, that's how little I've come to regard those pipes.
If it is that stuck, similar to my 84 Euro, the aluminum of the block has corroded around the metal outer sleeve of the CPS.
You cannot drive it downwards, it is poised just above a toothed encoder wheel.
Driving it upwards took a good bit of force, too.
If it is that stuck, similar to my 84 Euro, the aluminum of the block has corroded around the metal outer sleeve of the CPS.
You cannot drive it downwards, it is poised just above a toothed encoder wheel.
Driving it upwards took a good bit of force, too.
#17
I cannot remove the bottom of the bell housing as the exhaust headers are too close to the bolts and they will not back out of their threads to even allow the lower plate to open enough to evacuate the sensor if i pushed it through.
I will have pictures tomorrow of my misery...
I will have pictures tomorrow of my misery...
If the former then you are in the same boat as everyone else: you need to remove the bolts and nuts from the exhaust manifold flanges to separate the manifold from the cats. At that point the exhaust will droop enough that you can remove the bell housing.
BEFORE you remove the clutch, read up on the dual-mass (double disk) clutch system. It is different - very - from pictures posted above. You need to mark various things and have the clutch at a particular orientation before you drop it.
#18
I dug around the magnet with a soldering iron, melting as much plastic around it until it came out.
If i remember correctly there's a small metal rod beneath the magnet. There's probably still a bunch of plastic around the magnet and/or the rod beneath and you can't get enough grip to break the magnet free, it's a pretty strong magnet.
Even if you were able to break the magnet free, the metal rod beneath it is also pretty strong. I think your best bet is to dig plastic out if you want to reach it from the top.
Be careful with the dremel bits since you could damage the housing. I found the soldering iron worked best, and with less (if any) chance of damage. It's time consuming and stinky, just be patient and keep melting the plastic around the magnet until the magnet and metal rod underneath come out, then you can sink a large screw into the remaining plastic to pry it out, per my post.
If i remember correctly there's a small metal rod beneath the magnet. There's probably still a bunch of plastic around the magnet and/or the rod beneath and you can't get enough grip to break the magnet free, it's a pretty strong magnet.
Even if you were able to break the magnet free, the metal rod beneath it is also pretty strong. I think your best bet is to dig plastic out if you want to reach it from the top.
Be careful with the dremel bits since you could damage the housing. I found the soldering iron worked best, and with less (if any) chance of damage. It's time consuming and stinky, just be patient and keep melting the plastic around the magnet until the magnet and metal rod underneath come out, then you can sink a large screw into the remaining plastic to pry it out, per my post.
#19
I found the insides I was talking about in the previous post. The bigger shiny one is the magnet, attached below it is the metal rod. Hope this gives you an idea of what you're dealing with. Based on your first picture, you're just at the tip of the iceberg.
#20
Here is my current predicament. Magnet broken off 1/4 inch below shoulder of the attaching point, and the two headers obstructing the bolts.
I am going in with the solder iron again, bought a new tip that I hope will get deeper.
I am going in with the solder iron again, bought a new tip that I hope will get deeper.
#21
Tom,
if you could get a small hole saw then you could use that to cut away the plastic from around the magnet.
There are two types I am familiar with. The first is like a bit of pipe with cutting teeth on one end. (You might not be able to get one small enough). The other, which they often call a glass drill over here, is a metal tube with diamond pieces impregnated into one end.
It looks to me that you would have enough room for either of these types to work and with the way the plastic is currently shaped the hole would be fairly self centering on startup. I would tend to use one that had an inside diameter only slightly larger than the outside diameter of the magnet to minimise the chances of damaging the hole it all fits into.
If you could cut out the centre bit including the magnet then it would come out easily and you could chip away at the remaining plastic bit until it comes free.
Myles
if you could get a small hole saw then you could use that to cut away the plastic from around the magnet.
There are two types I am familiar with. The first is like a bit of pipe with cutting teeth on one end. (You might not be able to get one small enough). The other, which they often call a glass drill over here, is a metal tube with diamond pieces impregnated into one end.
It looks to me that you would have enough room for either of these types to work and with the way the plastic is currently shaped the hole would be fairly self centering on startup. I would tend to use one that had an inside diameter only slightly larger than the outside diameter of the magnet to minimise the chances of damaging the hole it all fits into.
If you could cut out the centre bit including the magnet then it would come out easily and you could chip away at the remaining plastic bit until it comes free.
Myles
#22
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This is a case where use of a welding unit would come in handy.
Weld a metal rod to the top of the magnet and then have plenty of mechanical advantage to lever it out.
Weld a metal rod to the top of the magnet and then have plenty of mechanical advantage to lever it out.
#23
Ok... Joy of all joys, the magnet is out! !
Now on to the second order of difficulty: there isn't any plastic left to "thread" a bolt onto to pull the metal part out with.
Should I just drill this out as much as possible and somehow, push it through and let the clutch eat it up?
I do not not what is below the "cup" in the photo (the base of the magnet)
or if the cup is the top of another stud surrounded by induction wiring to generate the CPS signal?
Again, thank you to this esteemed assemblage for all the help.
Now on to the second order of difficulty: there isn't any plastic left to "thread" a bolt onto to pull the metal part out with.
Should I just drill this out as much as possible and somehow, push it through and let the clutch eat it up?
I do not not what is below the "cup" in the photo (the base of the magnet)
or if the cup is the top of another stud surrounded by induction wiring to generate the CPS signal?
Again, thank you to this esteemed assemblage for all the help.
#24
That next bit of metal is softer than the magnet, so you may be able to drill it. Then put a tap in there and pull it out.
Use more PB blaster at this point - it will help.
In my case I was prepared to drill but tried the wall hook (the kind you hang bicycles with) first and it worked and got purchase on the shell.
Use more PB blaster at this point - it will help.
In my case I was prepared to drill but tried the wall hook (the kind you hang bicycles with) first and it worked and got purchase on the shell.