Tensioner roller mystery. 1984 Euro S. Please help solve.
#31
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I will double check all part numbers again. Thanks for all your thoughts and support. The engine number is 82 and then a B or E or 8 (cannot read it that well) followed by the number 00452
One question: can anyone measure the width of the pivot arm where the pivot bolt goes through? For an 84 euro with m28/21 engine.
Reason for asking is that I found that the PO was inclined to attack non fitting parts with an angle grinder... And I hope he did not do that to the pivot arm...
One question: can anyone measure the width of the pivot arm where the pivot bolt goes through? For an 84 euro with m28/21 engine.
Reason for asking is that I found that the PO was inclined to attack non fitting parts with an angle grinder... And I hope he did not do that to the pivot arm...
#32
Team Owner
it is unlikely that the arm has been ground down as it would be close to 6mm of grinding and the edges would be all buggered up unless it was done in a machine shop.
Simply put, you have a mismatch of parts and it would be good to get a matching set
FWIW 928INTL will have a half price used parts sale starting December 1 and they may have all of the used parts you need ,
of course you will replace the bushings, W/ pump and rollers and pivot bolt and tensioner boot and gasket
NOTE use hondabond 4 on the new tensioner gasket,
use STP oil treatment to fill it .
Simply put, you have a mismatch of parts and it would be good to get a matching set
FWIW 928INTL will have a half price used parts sale starting December 1 and they may have all of the used parts you need ,
of course you will replace the bushings, W/ pump and rollers and pivot bolt and tensioner boot and gasket
NOTE use hondabond 4 on the new tensioner gasket,
use STP oil treatment to fill it .
#33
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Engine number should be 82E00452 - check if the letter is E please.
Concentrating on the roller -----
Look at item #10
Discard 928 105 571 04 as that is for 86 32v only.
That leaves 928 105 571 00 & 02.
If we go by Model PET clearly states that 571 02 fits M28/21&22 cars 84 to 86.
If we go by engine number 82E00452 it uses 571 02.
If PET is correct (not always) it looks like your car used 571 02 because it is engine number specific and MY specific.
Using that roller would mean using tensioner arm 928 105 540 05
So ---- Educated Guess ----
Arm - 928 105 540 05
Pin - 928 105 570 03
Bush - 928 105 571 02
Roller - 928 105 571 02
Washer - 928 105 572 00
I can only guess that the arm was changed for some reason.
Concentrating on the roller -----
Look at item #10
Discard 928 105 571 04 as that is for 86 32v only.
That leaves 928 105 571 00 & 02.
If we go by Model PET clearly states that 571 02 fits M28/21&22 cars 84 to 86.
If we go by engine number 82E00452 it uses 571 02.
If PET is correct (not always) it looks like your car used 571 02 because it is engine number specific and MY specific.
Using that roller would mean using tensioner arm 928 105 540 05
So ---- Educated Guess ----
Arm - 928 105 540 05
Pin - 928 105 570 03
Bush - 928 105 571 02
Roller - 928 105 571 02
Washer - 928 105 572 00
I can only guess that the arm was changed for some reason.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#34
Team Owner
^^^^^Thanks for taking the time to research this Roger,
as always your a great asset to the 928 owners/restorers
as always your a great asset to the 928 owners/restorers
#35
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Well that must indeed leave the arm...
Probably the PO exchanges the whole unit (arm+rollers) at one time with a used unit from another car. Avoiding having to take the rollers from the arm (the old roller was a mismatch with an 84 also, as was the idle roller)
All part numbers that you mention match up with what I have. Except for the arm....
The number engraved even looks a bit odd with a zero missing and an R at the end??
928 105 540 3R
Hmmmm. Even longer wait till I get her to run again.
Thanks so much for your time. I hope this thread will help some others in the future as you guys pretty well documented all part numbers now!
Probably the PO exchanges the whole unit (arm+rollers) at one time with a used unit from another car. Avoiding having to take the rollers from the arm (the old roller was a mismatch with an 84 also, as was the idle roller)
All part numbers that you mention match up with what I have. Except for the arm....
The number engraved even looks a bit odd with a zero missing and an R at the end??
928 105 540 3R
Hmmmm. Even longer wait till I get her to run again.
Thanks so much for your time. I hope this thread will help some others in the future as you guys pretty well documented all part numbers now!
#36
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Just to correct myself. VIN is WP0ZZZ92ZES841270 engine code M28/21 82E00452
Vin check is appreciated.
The car was a grey import to the USA, supposedly in the New York area. And then exported a couple of years ago to Holland.
Does someone even know the car perhaps? You never know...
Vin check is appreciated.
The car was a grey import to the USA, supposedly in the New York area. And then exported a couple of years ago to Holland.
Does someone even know the car perhaps? You never know...
#37
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Numbers ending with R are casting numbers meaning they are not final parts number. Same casting can be used to make multible different part numbers by machining them differently.
#38
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So, I got the right parts on, but I do no longer trust the PO.
So, another question. I kept the cam gears in position as they were on the running car. Using flywheel lock.
But the left is three notches of at TDC, the right is one off.
Can cam the gears be put on wrong by the PO? Or is there only one position possible? And should I thus correct the position?
Picture shows left cam standing in front of engine. White marks are the original. Red is new.
So, another question. I kept the cam gears in position as they were on the running car. Using flywheel lock.
But the left is three notches of at TDC, the right is one off.
Can cam the gears be put on wrong by the PO? Or is there only one position possible? And should I thus correct the position?
Picture shows left cam standing in front of engine. White marks are the original. Red is new.
#39
Team Owner
after getting all of the correct parts I would suggest you do a dry run and put the engine together.
It appears that the cam timing has jumped.
retime the engine and see how things fit.
if all looks good then do a final assembly.
if you have any doubts take pictures and post them
It appears that the cam timing has jumped.
retime the engine and see how things fit.
if all looks good then do a final assembly.
if you have any doubts take pictures and post them
#40
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Retime by just taking belt off and turning the left camgear into position?
(Assuming the camgear can only fit onto the cam in one position?)
(Assuming the camgear can only fit onto the cam in one position?)
#41
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Ok. I timed the cam gears to the correct position. The passenger side was way off. It had slipped of the cam top counterclockwise... It may have been a long time like that...
I wonder how the beast will run once I have buttoned her up. But it is past midniht here. Time for some sleep.
I wonder how the beast will run once I have buttoned her up. But it is past midniht here. Time for some sleep.
#42
Team Owner
if you have the cams and crank properly timed it should run pretty well,
make sure to have the damper positioned properly.
NOTE you should be able to read the numbers while facing the engine
make sure to have the damper positioned properly.
NOTE you should be able to read the numbers while facing the engine
#43
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Oh, yeah!!! The Dutch Shark is running again!!! And so smooth! Much easier to drive, no bucking when driving off, wow!
Thank you all for helping me out. Without the rennlist community I could not have done it. And special thanks for the archeaology on all the part numbers by Stan and Roger.
If you guys are ever in The Netherlands, w'll have beer, or two. My treat.
Thank you all for helping me out. Without the rennlist community I could not have done it. And special thanks for the archeaology on all the part numbers by Stan and Roger.
If you guys are ever in The Netherlands, w'll have beer, or two. My treat.
#45
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I wrote a short piece on the archealogical travels that it took to solve this mystery.
http://flussigmagazine.com/15/post/2...8-s2-euro.html
http://flussigmagazine.com/15/post/2...8-s2-euro.html