Pfc. Parts

Tom, I drained the gas from mine because I knew it had been sitting for more than a year. Although a complete "no start" is almost *never* a problem with gas, I would go through the exercise of replacing fuel.

G8RB8

There you are, and slumming in a 928 forum as well.

G8RB8

If you have spark, even weak, it should run on ether. Since it doesn't whats left is timing, and happens to be something that could be disturbed by the work you did. Are you positive the spark plug leads are in the right order?

NoVector

This weekend, I would probably first jump the LH, EZ and fuel pump relays and start with the noid light. It would confirm what you're seeing with the dry plug and non-flooded/no fuel smell out the tail pipe--yet still getting fuel to the rail. Mystery solved at that point--then just have to work it backwards starting with the injector grounds. There's also the WSM test plan. Frustrating I know--dicked around with a no-start for a month last year. Hang in there

Pfc. Parts

I'll bet my 'nads it's a short in the injector harness.

Well, not really. They're pretty useless but I've grown attached to them...

CoachTom

-I did the jumper on the LH, EZ and fuel pump relays, no joy...
-ALL of the grounds have been dremel brass wheeled, DeOxit, and after install, CorrosionX. I have checked the grounds three times at MPVIII and MPIX because after i thought it was a poor connection, i second guessed the wiring into the ring terminals. All tight, dry, and cleaned. If there is a short in the injector grounding, it has to be under the intake plenums. Will check with the Noid light Saturday.
-The CPS side of the connection is brittle and cracked. But the terminals were clean and shiny. I DeOxit both sides and then safety wired the two sides tight and closed in the bracket.
-Even though the car is new to me, I have driven it almost a thousand miles. Gas is fresh, ethanol free, and half a tank. there is a new fuel filter on (600 miles ago) and until i get a rail gauge, fuel pressure is unknown.
-I do not understand the sequencing or signal genesis for the LH to turn on the fuel pump which isn't happening. I do not know if it needs a signal from the CPS or if it is a vacuum sense that the engine is turning.

-WSM Test Plan... I started to read it and my eyes glassed over and when i realized it took two people and long jumper cords to the DVM i stopped reading. Guess i need to dig into it.

-Is there a CPS test? A "crank the car and if there is a signal on pin "X" of the EZF" it is ok?

Greatly appreciate everyones concern and sharing their similar experiences to assist!!!

TMcD

Mrmerlin

if you have any doubt about the CPS replace it
no testing necessary

76FJ55

I'm hedging my bets in the CPS. the EZF needs the RPM sensed from the CPS to signal the LH to turn on the fuel and to fire the injectors. I know you said the CPS connector was crumbling, could you have inserted the wires in the wrong order?

CoachTom

Wires of CPS never came out. They are installed and tightly attached to the other connector. The safety wire was to insure that it didn't separate. Understand a new one needs to be purchased...

The timing and the plug wires were never removed but one at a time. Saturday, rotors and caps. Hopefully, this gets the spark hotter.

So, injectors apparently not firing, fuel pump not energizing, all connected to the CPS?

Hypothetical question... If I remove the CPS, try to trigger or simulate the crank magnet passing the sensor head, it should fire the injectors and I would hear them clicking? I have a rare earth magnet I could repeatedly swipe post the tip..

As always, thanks!

G8RB8

You got spark by putting the plug on the shock tower so you could see it I believe. If that's correct can you ground the plug on the engine itself and have someone else check for spark?

CoachTom

Yes, originally.
But I also did a few other things to ground the plug to make sure.

Since I was disappointed in the spark, I then used safety wire tightly from the plug to the ground point on the cross tube. Still the same spark, so then I used jumper cables from the engine block to the plug. Same spark...

Its just not a hot, "don't taze me bro" spark...

spark is identical, left or right coil. Just 'meh'...

I am going to try the Ether again with a longer burst. I don't like using it for fear of detonation in cylinder.

Thanks,
TMcD

G8RB8

OK, here's another crazy idea. Open up the vacuum leak you fixed.

NoVector

Hi Tom - What I meant to say was, until you narrow it down, I would leave all 3 jumped as it removes it from the problem. Meaning, whatever the problem is, it isn't the relays.

The test plan isn't too bad, it walks you through a deliberate logical "if this, then test that" kind of thing. Not everything in the plan requires an o-scope. I.e., checking the Temp II with a VOM, etc.

But it sounds like you've narrowed it to a no-fuel through the injectors problem. The noid would confirm that. I bought my noid set at Advance Auto for 15 bucks. Good luck!

Maleficio

A noid provides loads of useful info in a manner of fifteen seconds. I love mine, though I've used it only once.

CoachTom

Injector clicks when I apply voltage.
No noid light flash on crank.

Injector has 15.9 ohms across contacts

Harness has 2.8 terminal to terminal.

Red/white stripe to ground 2.4.

Brown to ground 4.8 ohms.

Is this a short in the injector harness wiring? Or an LH/EZF failure? CPS?