Brake light bulbs full of water
09-21-2013, 07:02 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Brake light bulbs full of water
After driving my daughter to school in the rain this past Friday, I got an alarming RED warning "BRAKE LAMP (!) FAILURE" message on the dash. After I realized it wasn't "CHECK TOOTHED BELT...." I resolved to pick up a replacement bulb, heck two of them, and replace them both.
I removed the right lens and found a wet popped bulb. I swapped it out in the parking lot of AutoZone, started her up and got the same message. What are the odds of both bulbs going out at the same time? I pulled the left lens and found a really wet and broken bulb(see pic below) that looks as if it has been that way for a long time and has been serving as an incubator for primordial life. There was definitely stuff growing in the bulb.
Only the right lens has a visible spider crack. Both lenses had no water in the lens cavity so I thought it was odd that the bulbs were full of water. Amazingly, both bulbs had at least one filament still intact.
I dried, brushed and cleaned all connections, both bulbs were swapped and warning message is gone. Brake lights now work as expected.
Prior to this episode, I noticed that the Voltmeter always went to 11.5 -12.0 when at a stop light and then go 13.5+ on pull away. I always wondered if something was wrong but just kept driving. My brake lights probably have not worked for a while unbeknownst to me despite passing annual inspections. Pressing brake pedal now barely moves the voltmeter needle.
Question: Would water filled bulbs with a working filament draw lots of current but not enough to blow a fuse? Secondly, could the bulbs have possibly created an alternate form of primordial life?
I removed the right lens and found a wet popped bulb. I swapped it out in the parking lot of AutoZone, started her up and got the same message. What are the odds of both bulbs going out at the same time? I pulled the left lens and found a really wet and broken bulb(see pic below) that looks as if it has been that way for a long time and has been serving as an incubator for primordial life. There was definitely stuff growing in the bulb.
Only the right lens has a visible spider crack. Both lenses had no water in the lens cavity so I thought it was odd that the bulbs were full of water. Amazingly, both bulbs had at least one filament still intact.
I dried, brushed and cleaned all connections, both bulbs were swapped and warning message is gone. Brake lights now work as expected.
Prior to this episode, I noticed that the Voltmeter always went to 11.5 -12.0 when at a stop light and then go 13.5+ on pull away. I always wondered if something was wrong but just kept driving. My brake lights probably have not worked for a while unbeknownst to me despite passing annual inspections. Pressing brake pedal now barely moves the voltmeter needle.
Question: Would water filled bulbs with a working filament draw lots of current but not enough to blow a fuse? Secondly, could the bulbs have possibly created an alternate form of primordial life?
09-22-2013, 12:59 AM
#2
You can call me Otis
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of course, there are plenty of threads of leaking tail lights for your MY, and also while your in there, its best to just replace all the bulbs for both sides. Also there is another issue that nickel plated based bulbs are a better replacement than copper based, something to do with the amperage draw if i am not mistaken.
09-22-2013, 11:27 AM
#4
Team Owner
I would suggest two methods of repair,
First fix the holes if there are any in the housings, usually over the brake lamps area.
JB weld works good ,
next remove the bulb and get a small piece of aluminum tape and put it above the area of the brake light bulbs,
this will assist in reducing the heat that the housing will see.
Get some thin closed cell foam from ACE its gray about 3/8 wide and 1/8 thick,
put a strand of this foam around the outer edge of both lamp housings,
about 2mm from the visible edge,
clean with alcohol first, so the foam will stick.
This will keep water from getting behind the lamp housing as well as keeping out dirt
First fix the holes if there are any in the housings, usually over the brake lamps area.
JB weld works good ,
next remove the bulb and get a small piece of aluminum tape and put it above the area of the brake light bulbs,
this will assist in reducing the heat that the housing will see.
Get some thin closed cell foam from ACE its gray about 3/8 wide and 1/8 thick,
put a strand of this foam around the outer edge of both lamp housings,
about 2mm from the visible edge,
clean with alcohol first, so the foam will stick.
This will keep water from getting behind the lamp housing as well as keeping out dirt
09-22-2013, 01:39 PM
#5
Chronic Tool Dropper
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What Stan said about the foam, plus consider adding a few drain holes in the low spots of the bumper shell in the wells for the lamp assemblies. There was a factory 'service information' note on this way back when. Anyway, a few small holes just inside where the new gasket sits will help drain any water that gets past. Mildly chamfer the edges of the holes, so the water drops will roll over the edge.
Alan has a a picture that shows how he placed some weatherstrip in the well to keep water from spilling out. I took a slightly different route by placing a wrap of foam tape completely around the lamp housing itself. My reasoning is that I'll have less water to drain from the well if I don't let as much in. Kee in mind that, at least where Alan and I live, rain is not an issue. Much more important is avoiding the little dusty dribble trails that happen after washing the car.
NC928S4: While you have things apart, talke a good look at the lamp sockets. If you've had enough water to pop the bulbs, there's a very good chance that the contacts and springs in the sockets are corroded. The socket has a seal around it that is supposed to keep water out too. Good used replacement lamp harnesses are getting a little tough to find. The solution for many is to replace just the ends with some sligtly-modified sockets originally intended for a Nissan Quest. A little razor-knife surgery on one of the little nibs on the replacement socket makes it fit the 928 lamp assembly nicely. A little searching here on RL will net you the NAPA part number, a preferred source from what I can gather.
Alan has a a picture that shows how he placed some weatherstrip in the well to keep water from spilling out. I took a slightly different route by placing a wrap of foam tape completely around the lamp housing itself. My reasoning is that I'll have less water to drain from the well if I don't let as much in. Kee in mind that, at least where Alan and I live, rain is not an issue. Much more important is avoiding the little dusty dribble trails that happen after washing the car.
NC928S4: While you have things apart, talke a good look at the lamp sockets. If you've had enough water to pop the bulbs, there's a very good chance that the contacts and springs in the sockets are corroded. The socket has a seal around it that is supposed to keep water out too. Good used replacement lamp harnesses are getting a little tough to find. The solution for many is to replace just the ends with some sligtly-modified sockets originally intended for a Nissan Quest. A little razor-knife surgery on one of the little nibs on the replacement socket makes it fit the 928 lamp assembly nicely. A little searching here on RL will net you the NAPA part number, a preferred source from what I can gather.
09-22-2013, 04:13 PM
#6
Team Owner
Nice pictures DrBob thats what I was describing,
it works well on my 88
it works well on my 88
