WallyP

While Stan is correct (as usual) on the common failure point in the alternator excitation wire, I would like to point out that this particular wire can cause problems due to its very complex routing.


On your '82, the power to excite the alternator has an elaborate route.
1) Battery to ignition switch.
2) Ignition switch to bus 15 (general switched power bus) inside the central power panel.
3) Bus 15 to terminal H7 on the central power panel. (Connectors are A-Z, left to right on the bottom of the panel).
4) H7 on a black wire to terminal 3R on the instrument pod.
5) Terminal #R to the Generator light, and to a resistor mounted in parallel to the light. If the light is burned out, the alternator won't receive enough power to generate. Bad connection or bulb in the pod is a likely problem.
6) From the light/resistor to terminal 11R in the pod.
7) Terminal 11R on a blue wire to terminal H8 on the central power panel. There are three blue wires here - power goes to the central warning computer, and to the mileage counter under the cover on the passenger door sill.
8)Terminal H8 to terminal Z6 behind the panel.
9) Terminal Z6 outside on a black wire to terminal Z1.
10) Terminal Z10 inside to terminal O8.
11) Terminal O8 on a blue wire to the alternator.

You can have a faulty (high resistance or intermittent) connection at any point along this route. Have fun...

Alan

While the above is true - we know it didn't work, then did, then didn't and in between these you changed the alternator out and then went back to adjust the belts.

It seems to me that moving the alternator is what has changed the symptoms - which makes an exciter wire break near the alternator the most likely answer.

Try this: with ignition on (car not running) get a voltmeter on the exciter wire terminal on the alternator and ground it to the alternator main case (say the adjuster bracket). Then flex the exciter wire and see if you see the voltage an the alternator exciter terminal change between 0v and ~2v. Basically what stan proposed but a bit easier to do.

Alan

Five-8

Alan, it does seem to me that the problem or at least part of the problem is indeed the exciter wire near to the alternator.I did as you suggested but could not see a voltage change.Yesterday i tried the same thing(flexing the wire), while someone monitored the pod for a flicker on the charge/warning light...that was a no go also.
So i ventured near the 14 pin today(didnt really want to cuz i knew by the condition of it and the nearby wires that it has become quite brittle), i could not establish continuity for the exciter wire, and upon visual inspection i clearly need to address the 14 pin and accompanying wiring or at least run a sister wire as someone suggested in a related thread--the exciter wire connection within the 14 pin is tenuous at best.

Wally...i appreciate the detailed map, with a bit of luck i may not have to chase this devil too far.

Would any of you guys argue for a complete new harness versus a localized 14 pin R&R? No plans to ever part with this car so thats why i am asking for the long term view.

Thanks for all your help guys

Cheers,

Mrmerlin

While your looking through the WSM wire diagrams you can rock out to this

Traffic..............


Adrian, from the info you provided,
To me it seems like you need to fix some other parts of the electrical system,
before you start fixing things that are not working.

These have already been pointed out more than a few times.

The result your now having more than a few posters chasing tails around the Mulberry bush.

My suggestion go back to first post here and follow all of the things that have been suggested.

Please detail with pictures if possible what you did and the results of your work.

This may be frustrating, but if you dont fix the bridge between one part and other,
neither part will work as it should.

So do the complete electrical system cleaning ,

Including, all the fuses and relays get checked and removed and clean the connecting points with a pink eraser.
Clean the battery terminals and the ground connections in the whole car.

Inspect/clean/ replace the 14 pin connector and repair the wires and connector as necessary.

Inspect the CE panel for water intrusion , if there are rusty areas above the CE panel,
then the blower box should be removed and resealed with 3M strip caulk.

Once these basic bridge building parts are completed,
you may find the rest of this endless tail chasing will be put to bed.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

It's a good idea to listen to Stan.

Five-8

Understood.

Sincere apologies to those whom may feel that their time has been wasted.

As ever,Thanks.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Adrian, you're not wasting anyone's time. You are asking for help and trying to work with the skills and knowledge that you have. Stan's advice to go through the entire electrical system is very sound. It should probably be done, if it hasn't recently. It will cover many areas that are unrelated to your problem. You are trying to zero in on your problem. He is trying to tell you that in the long run his method will pay dividends. Both approaches are pretty sound, as long as electrical maintenance is covered eventually.
Good luck,
Dave