Torque Converter Bearings, replace w/ T T ?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Torque Converter Bearings, replace w/ T T ?
I'm replacing the Torque Tube bearings w/ Black Sea R&D Super Bearings in my 86.5, have had vibration and it's noisey.
Looking up through the rear clamp hole i can actually see the rear T T bearing right up next to the pinch clamp, no wonder this thing was vibrating.
I'll post some pictures tonight.
My question is should one always replace the Torque Converter bearings too?
I read through Dwayne's excellent write up, also is it a must the transmission be removed?
Thanks in advance,
Dave
Looking up through the rear clamp hole i can actually see the rear T T bearing right up next to the pinch clamp, no wonder this thing was vibrating.
I'll post some pictures tonight.
My question is should one always replace the Torque Converter bearings too?
I read through Dwayne's excellent write up, also is it a must the transmission be removed?
Thanks in advance,
Dave
#2
Team Owner
usually the issue with the TC bearings and removal of them is that flex plate that the converter slides into will stay stuck to the converter thus the TC comes out,
and IIRC there isnt enough room to do this, so trans removal is required
and IIRC there isnt enough room to do this, so trans removal is required
#3
Former Vendor
99% of the time, the noise isn't in the torque tube, but in the torque convertor bearings....so the answer to your question is an absolute "YES!"
#4
Rennlist Member
I have the same issue Dave. My rear TT bearing has come apart and there is part of it resting against the rear clamp. I can push a small metal ring forward towards the engine with my finger from the Rear TT bolt port. I am having Constantine make me a new TT with the race shaft and super bearings. We are also replacing the converter bearings as a WYAIT item since the trans is coming out anyway.
It is also starting to get noisy beyond the rattle, rattle, rattle that the piece on the clamp is making. A whirring is starting now.
Glad replacement date is only one month away and I have a few other cars to drive til then.
It is also starting to get noisy beyond the rattle, rattle, rattle that the piece on the clamp is making. A whirring is starting now.
Glad replacement date is only one month away and I have a few other cars to drive til then.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, I guess I figured as much, was hoping I wouldn't have to remove the transmission as it's working well and no leaks after I changed the pan gasket and fluid, the cooling lines are Red, so I'm thinking they have been changed by PO.
I did read a post by Bill Ball showing how to do w/o removing trans, has anyone else tried it?
Thanks,
Dave
Edit: Hi Jeff, WOW it actually came apart on there, I guess it was making some noises, I replaced the old TT bearings in my Blue 85 stick w/ super bearings from Black Sea and she has never been smoother. I'm sure you will feel the difference, I did
I did read a post by Bill Ball showing how to do w/o removing trans, has anyone else tried it?
Thanks,
Dave
Edit: Hi Jeff, WOW it actually came apart on there, I guess it was making some noises, I replaced the old TT bearings in my Blue 85 stick w/ super bearings from Black Sea and she has never been smoother. I'm sure you will feel the difference, I did
#6
Team Owner
B Ball eventually removed his trans to fix it after fighting it .
so figure your going to drop the TT and trans as one unit.
NOTE remove the pinch bolts front and rear before you drop the unit
so figure your going to drop the TT and trans as one unit.
NOTE remove the pinch bolts front and rear before you drop the unit
#7
Drifting
I do recall someone cut a slot in the housing to drop the TT, not sure I'd go that route. Unfortunately, I think I won't be far behind you, Dave. I've picked up an RPM dependent rattle down under and it's not the heat shields. Need to install the LSD I have sitting on the shelf too.
Please keep us posted and take lots of photos if you don't mind.
Please keep us posted and take lots of photos if you don't mind.
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#8
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On my GTS at 60K everyone told me the noise was the TT. TT was fine the carrier bearings were toast.
At 150K everything is still fine though I just wore the gearbox out 8>(
At 150K everything is still fine though I just wore the gearbox out 8>(
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I don't see how one can get the bell past the Flywheel other than cutting it as Kurt mentions, so other than all the rest of the stuff at the wheels and suspension I'm almost done
Thanks guys, and yes taking pics along the way.
Dave
#10
Drifting
Couple good threads on the subject worth reading :
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...tube-area.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...in-noises.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...tube-area.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...in-noises.html
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So if you use the rear two lower cover bolts as I do, would cutting the upper bell really be all that bad to remove the TT w/o removing the trans? It does remove one of two guide pins so maybe it could be affected by rotational torque?
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok so I answered my own questions, silence is golden, just pull it and don't cut.
Anyone see any issues if I drop the trans w/ the rear suspension?
As I don't need to do any axel work.
Anyone see any issues if I drop the trans w/ the rear suspension?
As I don't need to do any axel work.
#13
Former Vendor
If you were to "cut" the bell housing to remove the torque tube (and I've seen several vehicles with this modification), you would be awarded the "Kibort Axe Trophy".
It's over 8' tall and you have to walk through it, each day, in order to enter your house. It's powered by 240 volts and has big lights and bells that go off, only as you pass through. There's a rather large amplifier and speakers that broadcast that you are a "Hack".....should not be allowed to own tools.....about 12 different recordings. And there is a rather large "Axe" that hits you squarely, on the head, each time you pass through.....not hard....but it does start to "wear" on people.
Kibort has evolved to the point where he now has one of these trophies on every door of his house.....and giant ones over his garage doors.....
It's not a "perpetual trophy", that moves from person to person, but one that we have multiple trophies that we give out.....so it is very difficult to "get rid" of it.
You'd have to order and install a replacement bell housing from one of the suppliers, take detailed pictures of you changing the housing, and then you would still have to "keep" that trophy for a period of 2 years.....and not do anything else "wrong". Kind of like being on "parole".
Remove....do not cut. Verboten.
#14
Rennlist Member
Dave,
It is awfully awkward to drop trans and rear cross member as a unit.
The way I've settled-on in the home shop is disconnecting axles from transmission, but leaving them attached at hubs.
Chain-up trans. Drop rear suspension with axles and shocks attached.
Then drop trans and TT as a unit.
I use a rolling stool beneath the bell housing, setting the front of TT on that stool as its lowered. Then I just roll trans (on jack) and TT/stool out from beneath the car.
Ditto on Stan's comment about removing pinch bolt.
It is awfully awkward to drop trans and rear cross member as a unit.
The way I've settled-on in the home shop is disconnecting axles from transmission, but leaving them attached at hubs.
Chain-up trans. Drop rear suspension with axles and shocks attached.
Then drop trans and TT as a unit.
I use a rolling stool beneath the bell housing, setting the front of TT on that stool as its lowered. Then I just roll trans (on jack) and TT/stool out from beneath the car.
Ditto on Stan's comment about removing pinch bolt.
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by GregBBRD;10748736....If you were to "cut" the bell housing to remove the torque tube (and I've seen several vehicles with this modification), you would be awarded the [B
"Kibort Axe Trophy".[/B] ..... Remove....do not cut. Verboten.
With that said I'm still looking for the shortest route from A to B, my goal is to change out the TT Bearings w/o draining the trans and removing the rear and Trans completely.
Re-reading Bill B's old thread it looks like he lowered the Front of the TT while also angling the Bell until it cleared.
If I can not do that than I am looking to Lower the trans and Rear suspension enough to remove the upper bolts and get the TT off the trans.
However it looks like the wiring for the rear brakes and lines will be limiting my travel so the calipers and speed sensors will need to come off so as not to damage anything.
I should be able to remove the Rear Suspension w/ the Trans, Yes?
Some pic's as promised.
Last edited by davek9; 12-07-2014 at 11:56 AM.