Late Night Fuel Pump Leak
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Guys,
Went out somewhere. Smelt a little fuel when I got out of the car... Oh Boy. Hoped it was the 'Y' connector.
Couldn't localize by smell. Got out tools and removed airbox. All good under the hood. Recently completed GB lines install, and I give a good look probably once a week at the connections.
What I find at home is a leak from the outflow side of the fuel pump. Leak is right up top at the 19 mm nut.
I have not been there recently for any work at the pump. I did do a new filter about three months ago, and all good.
My question is, if I take off the copper sealing washers, heat them and refit, will this be adequate tonight ? I can't thing of any other reason for this to occur. Is there another reason I am missing ? Also is there any reason not to use Loctite 574 here at the pump ?
Thanks in Advance.
Craig
Went out somewhere. Smelt a little fuel when I got out of the car... Oh Boy. Hoped it was the 'Y' connector.
Couldn't localize by smell. Got out tools and removed airbox. All good under the hood. Recently completed GB lines install, and I give a good look probably once a week at the connections.
What I find at home is a leak from the outflow side of the fuel pump. Leak is right up top at the 19 mm nut.
I have not been there recently for any work at the pump. I did do a new filter about three months ago, and all good.
My question is, if I take off the copper sealing washers, heat them and refit, will this be adequate tonight ? I can't thing of any other reason for this to occur. Is there another reason I am missing ? Also is there any reason not to use Loctite 574 here at the pump ?
Thanks in Advance.
Craig
#2
Team Owner
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Craig depending on how tight the cap nut was made it may have deformed the end of the short metal line.
It is always best to use new sealing washers for this application.
NOTE the natural tendency is to tighten the cap nut so its really tight,
this deforms the line end and thus creates a leak even if new washers are used.
What I do is use some PTFE sealant on the check valve to pump threads,
then a new washer,
make this fitting tight so it wont come loose later.
Then put some antiseize on the cap nut threads and install two new washers and a new hardline.
NOTE you can check the hardline seating surface with a straightedge,
if the faces are deformed then a new line is indicated.
You could try using the 574 on the sealing washers,
but still use new sealing washers,
as they will be softer than work hardened washers that have been annealed ,
as you have now real way to test your annealing work
It is always best to use new sealing washers for this application.
NOTE the natural tendency is to tighten the cap nut so its really tight,
this deforms the line end and thus creates a leak even if new washers are used.
What I do is use some PTFE sealant on the check valve to pump threads,
then a new washer,
make this fitting tight so it wont come loose later.
Then put some antiseize on the cap nut threads and install two new washers and a new hardline.
NOTE you can check the hardline seating surface with a straightedge,
if the faces are deformed then a new line is indicated.
You could try using the 574 on the sealing washers,
but still use new sealing washers,
as they will be softer than work hardened washers that have been annealed ,
as you have now real way to test your annealing work
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 09-09-2013 at 12:21 AM.
#4
Team Owner
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Craig at this point you could try to give the cap nut a bit more snug,
maybe you didnt tighten it enough and the motor running loosened it
maybe you didnt tighten it enough and the motor running loosened it
#5
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Head scratcher here... I haven't touched the apparatus in five years.
I'll try simple tightening first, but I will say it did seem rather snug when I first laid a tool on it as a test. Now I'm going to finish my first cup of coffee and then remove the terminals, and probably the pump too, for better access. As we say, going to be a while in the Big Room. I need the car for tomorrow.
I'll try simple tightening first, but I will say it did seem rather snug when I first laid a tool on it as a test. Now I'm going to finish my first cup of coffee and then remove the terminals, and probably the pump too, for better access. As we say, going to be a while in the Big Room. I need the car for tomorrow.
#6
Team Owner
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naa just disconnect the battery,
then tighten the cap nut dont take it loose,
you will disturb the sealing washers.
BUT you should also loosen the motor clamp so it can find its sweet spot after you snug the cap
then tighten the cap nut dont take it loose,
you will disturb the sealing washers.
BUT you should also loosen the motor clamp so it can find its sweet spot after you snug the cap
#7
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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#8
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
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Holy Moly...
Once I had clearance, I found the cap nut quite loose. Gave it a reasonable tightening and no more leak. I have fans on it, and will check it in a bit after another cup of coffee. I feel like I'm at work and not with my pastime. It's a good thing I'm used to this kind of process, for it makes it almost normal.
Once I had clearance, I found the cap nut quite loose. Gave it a reasonable tightening and no more leak. I have fans on it, and will check it in a bit after another cup of coffee. I feel like I'm at work and not with my pastime. It's a good thing I'm used to this kind of process, for it makes it almost normal.
#9
Team Owner
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it will probably be OK,
have a good night,
park the car outside and away of any buildings
have a good night,
park the car outside and away of any buildings