upstate bob

Hey guys, I recently posted that I now have a new (to me) two post asymmetrical lift. Since most cars are heavier in front, that is what these crittters were primarily designed for. -Anyone here familiar with lifting a 928 with this kind of lift?
My guess is I should run it as far forward as I can get the arms to reach appropriate hard points. I have the equipment manuals and this is not addressed.
I have lifted my daily driver suzuki with no problems. Informed answers appreciated.

joejoe

I have a bend-pak and as the cars are near 50/50 weight I try to center car. Then lift off ground until tires clear and check front and back by 'rocking ' a bit. There is a feel (sturdy) when right.

Mrmerlin

put the pads of the lift under the rocker panel lift points,
the car is close to 50/50 so center it between the beams

77tony

Like JoeJoe & Stan say. If the car feels a bit little heavy in the front or the rear, drop the car back down to the ground then roll forward or back just a bit bit. Then repostion your arms & pads so they line up with your cars lift points then double check everything. Here are a few reference pics. T

upstate bob

thanks guys. For my other car I put tape on the floor at the front tire mark so I can spot it quickly. when I get a happy spot for the 928 I'll do the same. -Tony, you have more ambition than I do. nice project.

dr bob

My lift is not assymetric, but I lift butt-heavy metric cars on it OK.


As others share, the weight on the lift is pretty well centered between the pads. Instead of putting tape on the floor that I can't see while in the car, I took some string and a tennis ball, threaded a loop of the string in the center through said tennis ball, and stretched the string across between the lift posts so the tennis ball meets the windscreen right at the windshield mirror base. The MaxJax uses steel rods as safety pins, passed through the column at one of several heights. With the pins in the top position, ready to start lifting, the ends of those pins make a perfect place to hang the ends of the string. Big green tennis ball is hard to miss.

I used a very large sail/upholstery needle to get the string through the tennis ball. The ***** are imitation Penn, sourced in a four-pack from the local 99-cents-only store.

PorKen

You could have used PK32V'r needles.

76 x 1mm doll needles - made in the Czech Republic!

autoslave

Bob, here's the official scoop for an asymmetric lift.

[ATTACH]760149[/ATTACH

dr bob

More than a few folks have followed that kind of guide, and lived long enough to regret it. The forward "lift points" they show are actually the floor pan reinforcing ribs. The crush quite nicely when asked to support the weight of the car. Plus they are hidden by the belly pans. Trust me, the factory jack point pads are fine for the duty. Those other sheet-metal floor pan ribs, not so much.

upstate bob

thank you all. I liked the tennis ball idea. I may hang one from the ceiling on string so it hits the base of the windshield. First lift to the top will be this week. No telling what I'll find under there.... dead possum,etc. (no armadillos in NY)

dr bob

Bob--

At our last home, I connected the support string for the tennis ball to the garage door, via a couple screw-eyes in the ceiling. So the tennis ball falls to the right height when the door is open, then retracts to the ceiling when the door is closed. K likes to back into the garage in her 4Runner, so she had a target to aim for.

Nowadays, there are safety eyes on the garage door frame, easy for her to see when backing in. There are also accessory laser pointer gizmos that attach to the ceiling and wire to the lights in the opener itself. A red spot on the dash tells you where you are vs. target position. The tennis-ball trick works easily with the MaxJax since it has those handy pins to hold the strings, and easy to remove and store once the car os positioned. I'm not sure I'd like the idea of having a tennis ball at a fixed height over the hood. For positioning the car it would be fine, bt if the car is raised with the hood open, it's going to fall into the engine bay and get tangled in something critical when you start to lower the car. The laser option is a lot safer and convenient. They are cheap (<$20 on Amazon) and quick to install.

Rob Edwards

+1 on the laser assist:


The bicycles in the back of the garage all rest easier when the wife pulls in, now.....

dr bob

Rob--

Did you end up with a Chamberlain/LiftMaster opener? Looking at the 8500 for new PNW garage bays. Three lasers needed there.

Rob Edwards

Bob-

I bought a liftmaster 3800, looks identical to the 8500, AFAICT. Very happy with it. (No laser on my side, since the garage is about 23 feet deep now....)

upstate bob

pushed the up button this afternoon. I used the round jack points for lift spots and located the car about 10" forward of Rotary's recommendation for this whellbase because of the weight distribution. Worked out well. These cars are intimidating beneath. I hope I don't have to fix anything for a while. Looked good today.